Motorized Bike Bulls**t: Things your builds do that piss you off!

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there will be an electric start motor with pretty nice castings very soon. I hear bikeberry is going to be the first one selling it. price is going to be somewhere around $350

I'll definitely been on the lookout for it, I'd even like to see higher CC engines with simple auto or even manual gear boxes. Maybe just a bit bore kit would due. I can dream.
 
I'll definitely been on the lookout for it, I'd even like to see higher CC engines with simple auto or even manual gear boxes. Maybe just a bit bore kit would due. I can dream.
Bert Rod sells big bore kits up to 52mm (85cc with a 40mm stroke), but I don't recommend any more than 50mm (78.5cc with a 40mm stroke) due to cylinder wall flexing issues.

they're not cheap.
 
Bert Rod sells big bore kits up to 52mm (85cc with a 40mm stroke), but I don't recommend any more than 50mm (78.5cc with a 40mm stroke) due to cylinder wall flexing issues.

they're not cheap.

Interesting, if you have a link to that I would take a look.
 
he only deals through facebook, doesn't have a website or anything. dude's just a small time machinist but a hell of a tuner.

https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100008253252482&ref=br_rs

last I checked he wanted $500 for a bored jug, and you still have to do the required machining to your case and find your own piston and rings and wrist pin.

I think he deals through Mark Clyde Stewart now too but I've heard some nasty things about him lately and would suggest avoiding working through him.
 
ive been thinking of doing that to a few cylinders...one issue...this country doesnt seem to like cast iron pipe. virtually impossible to find. some say use steel, but i prefer my cast iron cylinder bores. mmmm, graphite nodules for lubrication... steel just aint the right stuff :(

and i am not about to bore out solid cast bar! that stuff makes a filthy mess...
 
my biggest problem is wen my frame breaks from the torque i get

Bicycles are generally engineered to be as stiff as possible so that all the energy from the pedals goes to the drive wheel. That's important but it brings up two important points: 1) bicycles are not built to be motorized and 2) stiffness is not as important on a frame with a motor.

When you place an engine on a bike frame, the engine does it's very best to break the frame apart. There are enormous opportunities for advancement in the frame area. That Huffy Cranbrook from WallyLand wasn't designed for this!
 
ive been thinking of doing that to a few cylinders...one issue...this country doesnt seem to like cast iron pipe. virtually impossible to find. some say use steel, but i prefer my cast iron cylinder bores. mmmm, graphite nodules for lubrication... steel just aint the right stuff :(

and i am not about to bore out solid cast bar! that stuff makes a filthy mess...

How about this as a place to start?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cylinder-Mo...311385?hash=item3d1af5a599:g:93YAAOSwEOxXPia0
I just ordered a head and gasket set to see if bolt-spacing and basegaskets fit.

Steve
 
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triple the price for moi, being on the other side of the world and all...

oui, is very nice looking... i hear myself asking such a cylinder, voulez vu coucec avec moi?


transfer matching seems to be the biggest hurdle. like oversized carbs on tiny intake manifolds, cant see the point in larger/more transfers if they get held up in that bottle neck at the case/cylinder join.

nothing a bit of welding couldnt fix ;) even them "technoweld" alloy soldering rods(99% zinc!) would work in such a non-stressed area.
 
nice post. mine would be breaking a chain without chain breaker tool and with hammer and screw driver only. lol :p
The way I broke my chains before I got a tool was with a small socket taped to a vice, then I would use a very small torx bit and line it up and squeeze the pin through the socket taped to the vice. Its a LIL tricky at first but once you've done it its so simple
 
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