Motorkote is good stuff

[george_n_texas]

George, motorkote is not a new additive, it has been around for years. It is produced by the same company that markets Duralube. Hmmmmmmmm......

Also, I didn't say that ALL additives are junk. I have used products to help oil consumption (STP, etc.) an products to clean clogged hydraulic lifters (Rislone, etc.). These products don't claim miracles. STP is simply a super thick oil that raises the viscosity of your motor oil so it doesn't slip by worn rings and valve guides as easily - so your clunker consumes less oil. Rislone is a mild solvent that cleans sludged up lifters when you buy a used car that wasn't maintained very well. lol

I did say that I am skeptical of any additive that claims to "instantly bond to metal", etc. and so on. If you want to continue to use motorkote, have at it.

I wasn't quoting you.

I've used motor honey ect when I had big oil leaks and bad oil burn issues and it worked for a bandaid but sure was not a fix.

I've used Lucas power steering treatment and did not have to replace a pump...IMO it fixed that one.

I do know MK does do something good it has to be reducing friction to make my engine quieter...haven't tried it on the keyboard obviously LOL

 

[flashstar]

I do not believe in the 10,000 mile engine oil change interval. My friend's Maxima which has had the oil changed every 7,000 miles with Mobil 1 has fairly severe sludge build-up in the crankcase. My 300zx on the other hand had its oil changed every 3,000 miles by the previous owner and when I got the car it only had a light film of browning inside the crank case.

Since I've added Royal Purple, even that is clearing up. I'm sure that an engine would be fine for 5000-6000 miles without an oil change if you are using a good synthetic oil and filter and change the filter every 3,000 miles.

I wouldn't purchase any additives aside from Sea Foam and MMO. These have been around for ages and have had mostly positive reviews.

Why get anything extra for these engines when you can just pull off the head and clean it in under an hour?

 

[Mountainman]

I have known some good car, truck and tractor mechanics
who don't like anyTHING sticking to their metal
just plain old good old oil
??
I am also one who has gotten remarkable miliage from every engine ever owned
getting older guy who has never had an engine seize or blow to pieces or go out in huff of smoke

used to add a few things to my oil sometimes
then those mechanic guys told me to stop that
MM

 

[Skyliner70cc]

I do not believe in the 10,000 mile engine oil change interval. My friend's Maxima which has had the oil changed every 7,000 miles with Mobil 1 has fairly severe sludge build-up in the crankcase. My 300zx on the other hand had its oil changed every 3,000 miles by the previous owner and when I got the car it only had a light film of browning inside the crank case.

Since I've added Royal Purple, even that is clearing up. I'm sure that an engine would be fine for 5000-6000 miles without an oil change if you are using a good synthetic oil and filter and change the filter every 3,000 miles.
QUOTE]

You are misinformed. Engine oil change intervals are dependent on your engine and driving style and used oil analysis from a lab such as the one I use, Blackstone Laboraties. You cannot make a blanket statement such as yours. If the 7k miles was was from daily 1 mile commutes to/from works then I can understand why the engine sludged.

Both my 2004/2006 VW Jetta's had factory recommended 10,000 mile oil change intervals to maintain engine warranty.

In my 2004 VW TDI, 15,000 mile oil changes were supported by oil analysis that showed my oil still had plenty of TBN left, and engine had low metal wear rates and oil could have easily gone another 5k miles (soot and insolubles were low too)

In my 2006 VW Oil analysis did not support the factory 10k service interval because my commute shortened considerably.

In my 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, my wife's driving pattern allows her to go the full factory recommended 12,500 mile OCI.

My 1991 Mazda RX7 engine and driving pattern allows a 2,500 mile OCI because of fuel dilution (rotary engiens are notorious for running too rich).

My Ford Taurs has a cheap hour meter on it. It gets into a lot of stop and go driving and I use an hour meter to change the synthetic oil every 200 hours regardless of mileage.

 

[arceeguy]

I do not believe in the 10,000 mile engine oil change interval.....

Our fleet manager takes into account many factors before he assigns an oil change interval for a car. He determines the type of driving, then sends the oil in for analysis at a lab to determine whether the car can go with extended oil change intervals. If a car gets re-assigned to a different department, he goes through ths process again. I am in no way advocating that people just jump into a 10K maintenance schedule.

Modern engines burn so clean that the oil does no get contaminated nearly as fast as it did before the days of computer controlled fuel injection. My old carbureted 1972 Chevy Nova got oil changes every 4,000 miles or so - and the oil was black on the dipstick. The oil on my 94 minivan is only light brown on the dipstick after 5,000 miles, and a chemical analysis shows that it has plenty of life left in it. At 10,000 miles, the viscosity is up a bit - but within range and insolubles (sludge) were indicating the need for an oil change.

Our fleet manager indicates that oil analysis and extended oil change intervals have saved the company hundreds of thousands of dollars in uneeded oil changes and wasted motor oil. Saving money, conserving natural resources and not affecting vehicle life sounds like a winner to me!

 

[motorpsycho]

typically in a car that is drivin mainly around town (stop & go traffic) changing oil & filter should be done every 3000 miles. on a car that is mostly driven on the highway (limited stop & go traffic) 5000 mile oil changes are probably ok. BUT, in my experience, 3000 miles is a good oil change interval for any engine. it's just preventative maintance and it's what keeps a motor alive. lets say that you typically change your oil every 5000 miles and have done so for many years. well, when your engine starts to burn oil, and you let it go for 5000 miles before you change the oil it is possible that you will be low on oil which is not good for any engine. checking the oil on a regular basis is a good idea but sometimes people just forget to do that.
royal purple is some of the best synthetic oil out there in my opinion. it is used on many high performnce drag engines and there is a significant gain in horsepower over conventional oils.
this subject can be beat to death because so many people have so many diferent opinions. i just say that if whatever you decide to do works for you, then do it. i personally do not beleive in oil additives and i do not use them. but again that is my opinion.
there is also a problem with conventional motor oils that i read about. conventional oil no longer has zinc in it. this is one of the common complaints from engine builders because the zinc helps prolong cam life. i'm talking about when they use aftermarket high performance cams. this is also a statement they make when it comes to old engines...older engines need the zinc to prolong cam life. weather this is true or not, is still up in the air.
there is only one conventional motor oil out there today that still contains zinc, and that's rotella T.
i use rotella in my 55 pontiac because the engine is "old school" and i don't want to take any chances on starving it from zinc.(weather it's true or not)

 

[george_n_texas]

OK here goes Norman's observations from the other site:

Default Re: Motorkote
yes I did. I rode the bike around first to see how it felt then I put 1/2 oz. in the plug hole then rolled the engine over a few time. Then 1 oz. in the tank mixed with 2 oz. of fuel rode the bike for a few miles
as I did the engine needed to have its idle adjusted a little lower. I find that the engine runs smoother and accelerates better than before. The idle had to be lowered I'm guessing to the decreased friction of the moving parts. I run Poulan syn. 2 stroke oil mixed at 40 to 1 in case your wondering.
This oil additive does seem to help I should have done a compression check before treating and after treating but didn't think to do it at the time. I did find that it smoked a lot until the poured in oil worked its way out of the engine plus it smelled strange. The other bikes are going to get treated with 1 oz. mixed with 2 oz of gas and then poured into the tank.
I was not paid or received the product free for trying this product I ordered it on line and paid around $26.00 for a 32 oz bottle. I don't think George sells it either he purchased the product like I did to try it
so its up to you guys if you want to try it.
Bottom line it does seem to me to help make the engine run with less friction. I'm still testing it for fun
this is the only"snake oil" additive I've tried. I do believe in Syn. oils and use them. Amsoil' Royal Purple,
Mobil one, and the Poulan syn. 2-stroke oil.
__________________
norms-iron-works.tripod.com

 

[Vistaman73]

Well I am about to try this stuff. GNT sent me an engine I think it may be the one of topic, and it needed some help, I still need a set of 48cc gaskets. LOL. But anyways, he sent it to me with some of this stuff in liquid and in grease, after some researsh I think I'm going to use the liquid in the tank AND a drop or two into the access hole of the clutch mechanism. And use the grease on the gears, etc. I am so happy to have an engine finally. Thanks again George I love everything I got. I'm glad your new job is going good.

Best Wishes,
Vistaman73

 

[Luka]

Oil and fuel additives discussions often spawn little fights. Everyone has their own opinion on them. I just fail to see how an oil additive can affect the balance of an engines rotating parts and reduce vibration at all. I am also not a metallurgist, but I fail to see how an oil treatment can bond itself to metal parts, or "soak into" the micro pores enough to make any difference above and beyond good old oil. The companies that make "dura lube" and "slick 50" have had to settle with the FTC on unsubstantiated claims about their products. Take a close look at how oil additive companies word their product description and the disclaimers following clebrity endorsements, etc. I am sure that you are doing your engines no harm, so to each his own I suppose.

Personal anecdotal evidence in favor of Dura-Lube...

I tried the Slick50... It was total ****.

So it took quite a bit of convincing, to get me to try Dura-Lube.

But I did finally try it.

In a VERY tired old datsun engine.

It made immediate differences in the way the engine ran.

Increased the gas mileage significantly enough that you didn't even have to count the gallons and miles, it was evident on the fuel guage. But I counted anyway, and discovered I went from 15MPG to over 20.

Then, one night, someone came the wrong direction on the highway.

Forced me over the concrete meridian in the middle.

This tore a gash in the oil pan. I lost ALL oil, immediately.

Not having any money for a tow, I was in a quandary. I was only 3 miles from home. So... I decided to take a chance. Drive home, and watch the temp guage, and pay very close attention to any sounds, etc. Stop at the very first sign of trouble.

I drove all the way home, with the guage never going over 220 and absolutely no rough running, or sounds, etc.

Took the oil pan off, fixed the gash, reinstalled then filled again with oil and Dura-Lube. The engine never showed any sign whatever, of any damage. Gas mileage stayed up there. Etc.

I know only enough to know that I can't absolutely attribute all that to the Dura-Lube. You won't find me getting into a fight about it.

But I do know exactly what I wrote above. And the Dura-Lube was the only variable that I know of to attribute it to. Take it or leave it.

It left me open to the possibility that while there is no such thing as a miracle in a can... There IS a possibility that someone can come up with an additive that makes a difference.

I won't write off something that has good reviews, and no bad that I can find. Just because I believe there is no such thing as a miracle in a can.

It's not going to give me a completely new engine. It isn't going to triple my gas mileage. It isn't going to put shoes on my grandchildren's feet. And it isn't going to bring about world peace. But I'll try the motorkote, when I can afford it.

 

[Luka]

Any time I hear the inclusive word ALL bells go off. When someone says ALL oil additives are junk this means to me that they think no new additive can be made that is any good...pretty closed minded.

I bought those platinum split tipped spark plugs years ago made quite a difference in my Suburu didn't do a thing for my Chevy van with a 350 engine.

I tried those platinum splits too. Made absolutely no difference in either a datsun, or a chevy.

The platinum tip was so tiny... Phsssssh. But I thought the idea of the split tip had merit.

So, since then, I have always either bought the NGK split tips, or made my own with a dremel and blunt chisel.

And yes, even my own split tips do seem to make a difference over the factory straight tips.