The other numbers are stock numbers that vendors use to order the plugs...As long as the plug you get says it is a NGK-BR6HS right on the plug, your fine...lol.
Yeah, your using a protruding tip plug in the BPR6HS series of NGK plugs...I always hesitate to recommend it only because some folks motors do not have enough clearance inside the head to use a protruding tip plug.
Yeah, your using a protruding tip plug in the BPR6HS series of NGK plugs...I always hesitate to recommend it only because some folks motors do not have enough clearance inside the head to use a protruding tip plug.
It looked exactly like the plug that came out all the way to the gap, so I put it in, and instantly it had better performance. It's been a while though. I'm thinking when I switch off of break in mix I'll change the plug too. I've gone through about a tank and a half(not counting when my petcock leaked) and I'll probably switch off after another tank or so.
Loosen both of the mounts and try to drop the rear down a bit and the front up a bit. That will give you some more chain length and help clear the mount. You can always grind the tip off the protruding rear mount.
Loosen both of the mounts and try to drop the rear down a bit and the front up a bit. That will give you some more chain length and help clear the mount. You can always grind the tip off the protruding rear mount.
That's something I've thought about, but the front basically won't drop at all. If I drop it, the rear no longer lines up properly. I may shave a little off the mount, but I believe a half link will allow me to reposition the wheel so I don't have to cut the peddle chain, and so the drive chain doesn't rub on the mount.