Muffler/Expansion Chamber - Making One

[Hive]

Check This

Interesting and innovative idea:
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?p=100058#post100058

If not too large, might be way to go.

 

[Hive]

I Just Figured

Out something.

The Tanaka 3300 and this and similar engines already have a built-in expansion chamber.

All one has to do is quiet that gas stream with less back pressure.

Voila! Make sense?

 

[Hive]

Added Thought

That I posted on another thread covering same topic: The Tanaka has a built in expansion tank, so I figure the pipe to just deaden some noise, if it works. If not, back to bare pipe. No big loss.

Brent, your bikes impressed the heck out of me.

Bet lottsa neighbors hangin' 'round your garage, right?

The vidio link changed and Imiss the Asian exhaust in the lobby.

And the great Len Cohen too! Love it!

Am I in right league?

 

[Hive]

Muffler/Expansion chamber - Sorta

Okay, I am anal and could not let this sit, although there is 5 inches of snow on ground and temp this AM was 3. But, why not?

Decided to try to stay small, muffler-wise.

Pic shows following: 8 inch x 1/2" copper pipe; two 1" x1/2" connectors; one 1' connecting sleeve. (NOTE: These items were in bin with other 1x1/2 inch reducers (so bin label said) and some were a bit larger than these were,so I took those that fit INTO the 1" sleeve I already had with old fittings.

The 1/2" pipe has a number of drilled ports in the center for the short option and will increase number of ports, if need to extend the device as in the long version shown. Short version is in middle, bottom is extended. Will be able to test without soldering etc, by moving outward as needed.

Using silicone tubing from Dave's to connect exhaust to suppressor.

The idea is to make a short/small suppressor/muffler, packing one end or not with roving, and testing, and gradually lengthen until satisfied with low sound and engine performance. Will trim ends at that point, if necessary.

The Tanaka-33 exhaust is 3/8" and am guessing the resistance from 1/2 inch pipe to chamber will not be sufficient to reduce efficiency but will reduce sound and remain compact.

Will likely hang/attach this below the engine from its cowling in some way, but will cross that bridge after I test to see if this cobbled muffler functions as intended.

 

[Hive]

Clamp to Engine Exhaust

With spring just around the corner, so I put this up, for early starters. but, might be better to wait and let me advise if it is worth the time, etc. Of course, if anyone wants to jump-start this experiment, have at it.

This is Tanaka 3300, but I am thinking it will apply to 25s, 40s and 47s, but not sure. I use a 3/8th copper fitting elbow to go slip over the engine exhaust pipe.

If Tanaka uses same muffler or exhaust for their engines, should be same. Regardless, if other engines are large, large fitting can be located, am guessing.

Picture of hole that is needed to necessary to drill in engine cowling around exhaust port/pipe for screw driver to be able to tighten small ss clamp that secures 3/8 copper elbow fitting to engine exhaust pipe. Only has to be as large as screw driver head.

The copper pipe's larger end is cut with 4 or 6 small slots, so it will tighten down on pipe, as the SS clamp is tightened around copper fitting. Will put that picture up later.

With Dave's silicone hoses, should stay together, with silver solder only in the muffler component.

Now, if it reduces noise, Voila!

Home free!

 

[Hive]

Need Your Opinion

With the warm weather approaching, am thinking of putting engine/rack assembly back on bike and beginning my exhaust experiment, but need advice from those who know about such things.

As you know, this "muffler" is for Tanaka T3300 2-cycle.

The pipes used are larger than the engine exhaust port, to minimize any back pressure.

The gases can enter and exit the mini expansion chamber in three ways:

1. Essentially a straight-through device. Run the pipe straight through, as shown in above pics of copper muffler, with ports drilled in the pipe to allow gases to circulate in chamber before exiting.

2. Same as above, but with fiberglass blanket around the pipe to absorb sound.

3. Run gas into chamber but the pipe does NOT run straight through, letting gases expand and circulate, before exiting at other end...

Looking for quiet, not added speed, without adding adverse back pressure.

 

[vegaspaddy]

hi hive,

keeping a close eye on your thread, my t3300 was supposed to get here today but UPS doesnt have the right address, found that out threw the tracking link from gebe.

Ah well one more day wont kill me

 

[Hive]

Muffler Parts and Assembly - Experimental Fun

For the anxious ones, like me. We have 8 inches of soggy snow on ground, but...

Here are two pics of the muffler parts and potential assembly, with explanations. NOTE: Has not been installed and tested to see if it actually does reduce sound level ... part of fun.

1.) Clamps, SS, that secure system to engine cage - small one to cage, around spacer/shim piece, other to muffler.

2.) Filler piece that rests against protective cage grille so clamp can hold without crushing cage.

3.) Pencil points to copper connect pipe that will likely be silicone hose - need at least one section of hose so assembly can be removed.

If 500 degree silicone hose is used at this point, use "fitting elbow, having one large end and one narrow .5" end, so hose slips over easily. I will likely use hose here also. Makes for easy adjustments, etc.

4.) Hose to separate 3/8" elbow from assembly to limit heat affects and easier assembly removal.

5. 3/8" elbow (with slits in connecting end) connects to exhaust port, and small SS clamp that holds the slit 3/8" elbow to exhaust port.

6.) Outer section of muffler - .75" sleeve connecting .75-to-.50" reducers.

7.) Through-pipe, with holes drilled for circulation and to allow gases to flow into chamber and/or by/through fiberglass covering - may omit, trimming at each end...have not decided.


The second pic shows device assembled, though not soldered as yet. It will hang directly beneath the Tanaka protective cage, with longer exit pipe - may have to alter if dripping exhaust moisture/oil becomes a problem.Will extend to rear with hose if a problem to preclude messy bike/tire, etc...

Still have to determine whether to run straight through pipe with holes and fiberglass or trim at each end inside of muffler section to let gases bounce about and flow out with minimal back pressure.

Plastic tube is silver solder.

 

[Hive]

Progress Report


Progress report...

Pics of soldered (silver) muffler, and approx engine positioning...need to paint etc.

Will hang beneath cage using two hose clamps, one around pipe and one around two small pieces of pipe at cage to form grip area above and below cooling slots. Idea is not to damage slots and offer a stong grip.

If it works, will extend pipe past fuel tank a bit.

Will hold off painting until after test run.

It snowed last night, with more coming. But, looks like a fifty degree temp coming in day or so.

 

[Alaskavan]

I hope this one works. I have stopped trying to invent one myself. I'll just wait 'till you perfect it, then steal your design. Assuming you won't mind. And thanks again for pointing me towards this site (seems like years ago).