My 4 stroke Glenn61

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by Glenn61, May 31, 2008.

  1. Glenn61

    Glenn61 Member

    This is my bike,,,it's an inexpensive Chinese import, a Rally-m20 that I bought for $215.

    I purchased my Robin-Subaru EHO-35 from for $375 plus shipping and have done much experimentation with it.

    My kit came with two support bracket bars,,as it should. One bracket bar on one side causes the roller housing to slant to one side.

    I have discovered some other tech tips that I will share with other 4-stroke engine kit owners here that will drastically improve the engine's performance.

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    Last edited: May 31, 2008

  2. Glenn61

    Glenn61 Member

    no gears

    I have stripped off all all of the gear shifting apparatuses, except for the rear derailleur which is necessary for chain tension adjustment,,,also shortened the chain using a chain tool and master link to keep the chain from flopping off the front sprocket.

    I have the rear derailleur set screw fixed at the second smallest sprocket and the front on the largest sprocket

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  3. Glenn61

    Glenn61 Member

    gas tank

    Also my kit came with a 2 liter fuel tank,,,this tank is of poor quality and soon became brittle, cracked and leaked.

    I went on line to see about a replacement,,,,$39.95, plus shipping...I don't think so.

    I went to my local Advance-Auto Parts Store and bought a 1 gallon Blitz red plastic gas jug for $4,,,cut a 2 centimeter hole in it and sealed the grommet with plumber's teflon tape (several layers) and mounted my gas jug to the top of the engine housing with some plywood, dry wall screws, wire coat hanger and stainless steel lock wire.

    Check out the pics,,,notice how a washer was used to prevent a puncture from the wire tie and ,how the coat hanger mount spaces away the plastic gas jug from the hot engine by bending the coat hanger horizontally and applying downward pressure with lock wire around the clutch case.

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    Last edited: May 31, 2008
  4. Glenn61

    Glenn61 Member

    mud flap-fenders

    A piece of 1 inch thick wood is useful as a mud flap when cut to fit in the front open space of the roller drive housing,,,drill four holes to permit the tying of lock wire through the wood onto the cross bolt that connects the mount to the clamp-bracket on the frame,,,this holds the piece of wood in place to block water and mud spray from the tire to the back part of your legs.

    Also,,,if your bike does not have fenders,, purchase a set of plastic ones and cut them to fit your bike....allowing a space for the roller drive to contact the tire..

    I mounted the rear half of the back plastic fender to the back of the roller drive housing, thus providing a place to mount my tail light.

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  5. Glenn61

    Glenn61 Member

    kick stand

    I have found that the increased weight of the engine requires a rear mounted kick-stand,,I have purchased the Greenfield brand kick-stand,,,it's very sturdy but mine did break at the cross members.

    I fixed it by drilling two holes through the kick mount and inserting dry wall screws into the bike frame to securley hold the kick-stand in place.

    A good idea would be to make the re-enforcement adaptation before the kick-stand mount became stressed and broke away.

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    Last edited: Jun 1, 2008
  6. Glenn61

    Glenn61 Member

    mirror, lights and zip ties

    OTHER TIPS: My mirror,,,I like the Blackburn brand end mount, I see a lot of cyclist using them and the one piece folding model provides an excellent view of cars over taking me.

    My head lights,,,I did not spend a lot on my lights, I use the standard Bell brand. I use two headlights in front,,one aimed directly ahead so I can be seen from far off and a second aimed to shine about 30 feet in front of me for when the way is dark and I have to watch for road hazards. The spare head light is also a back up if my batteries go dead in the first.

    I once again use 1 1/8 inch dry wall screws to secure the head lights from moving. Drill a hole through the mount into the handle bar and secure it permanently.

    And I inserted shortened screws under the lamp where the release is to prevent them from falling off,,,I can still change batteries by opening the top, but the head lamps are fixed in place.

    My tail light,,,I also use a small screw and lock wire to prevent it from falling off the mount.

    This became necessary after one popped off from the vibration,,I just have to cut and replace the wire with each battery change, but I use the slow flash option so the batteries last for a while.

    Another safety tip is to use zip-ties to secure your hub locks on your wheels from releasing,,,and fine straighten your rims with a spoke wrench to allow minimum brake gap,,,so you can stop quickly if you have to....


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    Last edited: May 31, 2008
  7. Nice bike, but I think you have put this thread in the wrong forum section. This section is for organization of Ride Events! Your thread should go to Picture Gallery instead.
  8. Glenn61

    Glenn61 Member


    The tires you select for use with a friction drive bike engine is crucial......I have experimented with several tires before I found what I feel are the best choices.

    For my REAR TIRE: The bike shops will often recommend one of the Continental Top Contact series since they have a high center for use with a bike engine......but there are different types and strengths in the manufacturer's inventory.

    My best performance has been with the Continental TOPCONTACT 50mm,,,also known as the Continental Top Contact Folding Bead 26x1.9".

    Best grip even when wet,,,,unlike the high rated kevlar tires that use a rubber cap that will peel off under friction drive,,,, the best tire is a solid rubber semi-soft tire with heavy smooth knobbies. And the Continental TOPCONTACT 50mm works great..Hand made in Germany, it's not cheap..$55 at my local bike shop and not much cheaper on line,,,especially after shipping cost.

    It's available on line at Western Bike Works:

    My FRONT TIRE: is a Continental too,,,it's the TRAVEL CONTACT,,,I like this tire because it has a guide center,,,that means it levels and straightens itself on contact. The front wheel will settle back to center when the bike is upright,,,,and there are knobbies on the sides that contact the road on turns enabling me to lean my 215 pounds steep in turns without fear of wiping out.

    I over inflate both of my tires because I'm a big guy,,,I put 70 psi in the read tire and 60 psi in the front,,,your requirements may vary.

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    Last edited: Jun 1, 2008
  9. Glenn61

    Glenn61 Member

    vice grip handle

    With the large one gallon tank made from a plastic gas jug there's no room to apply exact pressure to the roller housing when pressing it down on the rear tire,,,So I use a pair of pointed Vice Grips clamped on the back,,makes an excellent handle to push down enough for just the right amount of pressure,,,fast running with out slippage.

    I set mine so I can easily throw the wheel about half a turn with the roller housing clamped in place and the rear wheel up on the kick stand, off the ground,,engine off of course.

    I can remove the Vice Grips and store them in my back pack and have them should I need to adjust the roller drive pressure.

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    Last edited: May 31, 2008
  10. Glenn61

    Glenn61 Member

    Wanna go fast..?

    The little EHO-35 is a tough little engine,,,great ignition system, capable of high RPMs but, like all small engines, it has to run clean or else it suffers.

    I easily cruise at over 30 MPH,,and average about 80 MPG,,,I pedal assist the engine up to speed then let the engine build RPMs...this is possible with race grade products.

    GAS,,, I use Sunoco Race gas in my EHO-35,,,I buy the 5 gallon can of Sunoco Maximal 116 octane from Horse Power Sales here in Miami,,then I mix it in a 7 gallon jug with a gallon and a half of BP-Amoco Supreme from the gas station.
    I have found this mixture to give qiuck cold starts and great clean running performance.

    AIR INTAKE,,, In the EHO35's air intake housing there's a felt pad behind the black sponge air filter. This felt pad becomes oily and dense over time and need to be replaced or the air flow is restricted even more....I removed mine and traced it on to a 3X5 card,,cut out the outline and then using a U.S. 5 cent nickle, drew a hole directly over the intake manifold and cut it out.
    Then put the sponge filter on top and close the housing.
    This allows maximun air flow with the suction directly into the carburater and increases top end.

    It's also important to use carb cleaner to clear the intake of dirt with each oil change,,,monthly, depending on how much you ride.

    CRANK CASE OIL,,,There is no debate in my opinion,,,Lucas 5W-20 is the best oil for this engine,,,a good substitute would be Royal Purple or Mobil One also in 5W-20,,the lighter, the better for top end performance.

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  11. Glenn61

    Glenn61 Member

    useful stuff

    When the bike is dirty,,, (I hate riding or driving anything that's not clean and shiny) .....good old Foamy Gunk cleans everything,,use a soft brush on the rims.
    And the carb cleaner is good for the stuck on mess.

    And choose your own lubricant, but I like Silicone because it lubes and protects with minimal dirt stickage,,,on the throttle cable and body,,chain and sprockets, great.

    This concludes my presentation for now,,,please feel free to comment on the suggestions here and share some of your own,,,and of course quality pics are always appreciated.............Glenn61

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    Last edited: May 31, 2008
  12. Zev0

    Zev0 Member

    Moving entire thread to Rack Mount discussion.
  13. Glenn61

    Glenn61 Member

    Right you are Zev0,,,my mistake,,,I blame it on the whiskey.........:rolleyes:
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2008
  14. dbigkahunna

    dbigkahunna Guest

    Excellent series!
  15. SirJakesus

    SirJakesus Guest

    Great thread. Your bike is definitely nice and custom. I use the same bar-end mirror I got from nashbar, it IS awesome and would recommend for anybody.
    The only suggestion I have for you, since it seems you've covered your bases every other way, is to move that kill switch to your handlebars. It may not look as cool but if your engine gets stuck wide open somehow it just may save you from a very painful experience.

    Rock on thanks for the pics!
  16. Rollfast

    Rollfast New Member

    Thanks for the tips and pics!
  17. Glenn61

    Glenn61 Member

    Thanks,,I'm into pics in this digital age....:cool:

    I've never herd of that happening,,,some models like the Mitsubishi have the kill switch on the engine case. More likely, with the spring tension, it will fail to the idle position than wide open.
  18. I'm thinking now of a friction drive on my trike up front. You gave me some nice ideas!
  19. Glenn61

    Glenn61 Member

    4-stroke vs 2-stroke

    Everything is paved and flat here in Miami,FL so my Robin-Subaru EHO-35 4 stroke engine gets up to speed in the places where I ride,,,it starts up with just a short jerk on the cord,,,even cold.

    But now that I'm accustom to the motored-bike I want to go faster....:smile:

    My next engine will likely be the Mitsubishi 43cc 2.2 cost about $60 more to buy, but it has more raw power to allow greater pressure on the back tire for wet riding and will power through dirt or grass and climb hills better.

    My friend Ken bought the Mitsubishi 43cc after he tried my 4-stroke, he loved it never having been on any kind of motor bike before,,,,,,,,Ken weighs 240 pounds and he passes me on top end at 34+ MPH with a 1 inch roller.

    If you weigh less than 200 pounds, order your kit with the 1 1/8 inch roller or a 1-1/2 inch if you're under 170 to really move.

    The two stroke is not as easy to run as the four,,,adding oil measured into a gas can,,,and starting with the choke when it's cold takes multiple pulls.

    The 2-stroke needs no oil in the crank case though,,,the oily residue from the fuel does it all,,the intake and air filter need cleaning every couple of weeks.

    But like all good small engines , it's reliable,,,usually when there's a problem it's a dirty intake, air bubble in the fuel line, or the spark plug needs changing.

    The payoff is 40% more power than the four stroke,,,and super quick excelleration, like a dirt bike.........G61
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2008
  20. Rollfast

    Rollfast New Member

    I'd like to go with a friction drive vs a chain drive but ride about 50% gravel roads out here in the country. The tire you suggest sounds perfect for wet roads but I wonder how it would hold up and handle on gravel. The bigger Mitsubishi 2 stroke you mention is what I'd go with.