My bike is a DOG AND A PIG, It is ****ing me off, anyone know some other methods?

make sure your head bolt are tight, i have seen them come very loose from the factory
 
My bike was running pretty poorly until after messing with everything and no luck i bent the forks in the bowl down a little bit. They are the forks that touch the float in the carburetor. BE VERY CAREFUL not to bend em too much all mine needed was a hair adjustment it runs good now so Im too afraid to bend em more and see what happens. Check your plug after...
Good Luck
 
not a bad THING to try

i bent the forks in the bowl down a little bit
BE VERY CAREFUL not to bend em too much

not a bad THING to try when tinkering with HT engines

at most times when repairing small engines in the repair shop
mechanic's ((do not)) do this very often
but in the case of the HT engines
may not be a bad idea to try

only simple note would be in this and most cases when making changes
remember the starting point
in case we wish to go back

so many times in life -- we wish we could go back to where we were !!

MM
 
Last edited:
had bout the same problem with mine. make sure yer coaster brake isnt draggin or back inner axle nut isnt too tight. good luckaxle
 
Many thanks for your ideas, Im now out of the break in cycle and ran my first tank of gas thru it. I ran 93 octane mixed at 28:1 Noticed no difference/to very little difference. I have a speedometer, and made sure the head bolts were on snug before i opened her up to see what she would do. It tops out at 21 mph. Im only 150lbs, so she still should do better. She still is a dog and eats gas. It is very sluggish between 0 and 15mph, after she hits 15 mph and is there for a while and accelerate, she moves, and sounds the best between acceleration, from 15mph to 18 mph. Coaster brake is not on/locked. My next step is im going to try and put the muffler i got from BGF from the engine i blew on it, and was thinking about putting the slant engine head on as well from the blown engine. In doing this would i need to do any thing else besides get a new head gasket and put on slant head? May try tinkering with the carb float forks as well if muffler doesn't work.

Hoping i might somehow return the favor of the many ideas you have given, hopefully this will help someone that ran into a problem i had, and had to innovate something that worked. It is in regards to the mounting of the gas tank, my bike had a wide/fat top tube and the mounting screws they give me were not long enough to clear and install the mounting brackets, and you can't take out posts and install longer ones like the engine. So i bought some black plastic wire holders from the hardware store and mounted two of them on each tank mounting post. I then ran two long zippie ties at each mount under the top tube of the bicycle. This also allowed a spot for the clutch cable and ignition kill switch wire to run thru. I also added some double sided sticky tape to the bottom of the tank where it fits on the top tube, and it provides a strong secure tank hold without having to drill or monkey around with brackets that will scratch your frame.

<img src = "http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa178/bonefish1855/DSC03188.jpg"
<img src = "http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa178/bonefish1855/DSC03190.jpg"
<img src = "http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa178/bonefish1855/DSC03189.jpg"

Also check out the post im about to make on a "Quick Release Cargo Trailer" in traveling and commuting. i just got done building it. I built it out of 1/2 inch EMT conduit i got from the Hardware store. It is a strong trailer and also a breeze to disconnet from the bike.

Here are some picts, more in traveling and commuting thread.

<img src = "http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa178/bonefish1855/DSC03195.jpg"
<img src = "http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa178/bonefish1855/DSC03191.jpg"
 
When I switched my muffler to one with the catalytic converter in it my bike ran like a dog. Barely hit 20mph and had no power. Ran fine otherwise. I fussed with that thing forever drilling out holes in the cat, etc, etc.... I finally gave up and switched back to my rattle can muffler.

On a different subject, don't trust those zip ties to hold your tank. Zip ties eventually bust.
 
I was having a similar problem on a bike i helped build,it would idle and rev but when i gave it gas with a load on it it would fall flat on its butt and id have one heck of a time getting it to move on its own power...It turned out to be flashing in the intake manifold choaking down to about a 1/4 hole to breath through. Cleaned all that **** out and it ran great. Cut off inside muffler tube even with part that comes off, put on 3 rd slot on carb and opened up air cleaner ran 35 with a 44 tooth sprocket.
 
I read through the posts and agree with all said in regards to getting your motor to run right. I offer the following:

Based on the experiences I had when I first set up my motor I would not at all be surprised if your engine is running way too rich. Mine was and it took quite some time and work to get it leand out properly. Search past posts by for some further reading.

One way to get a good idea of this is to run the bike after warmed up on a long straight away and turn off the fuel valve. If there is significant increase in engine speed an power just before it dies from fuel starvation it's time to lean it out. For some reason these engines come set up super fat from the factory.

I occasionally see this guy ride by where I work and have for a while. His China Girl sounds like a four stroke. It;s pathetic. One day I'll flag him down and offer to help him get it leaned out and tuned up.

If you have a problem with leagage at the head you will be able to fell it. Just hold your hand around the cylinder head and rev the engine. If there is leakage you will feel he hot gasse on you hand. You should also hear whistling sounds, especially under load up hills.

I found that a gap about twice the one set from the factory on the spark makes a real difference. If the gap is too small I get misses and a less better reving engine.

I found that the base gasket covering the transfer ports is NOT an issue. I discovered this before I ever ran the engine but left it as it was. After maybe 2 hours of running time I tore the engine down to fix this. It turned out the covering part of the gasket had simply been eaten away!!!!!. Don't worry about that.

I know they test run these engine in China an if there anything major wrong like a magneto off and the timing real bad they would have caught it.

I still think the motor is running way to rich based on my own experience and those of others that have found the same thing.
 
Back
Top