My bike just about dialed in.

My first post. There it is, my first bike. Hiland MTB 66cc motor cleaned up internals, port matched, NGK plug, extractor exhaust, HP carb, 52 tooth rear sprocket and modified stock muffler. Stock internals and head.
Took a long time to make this happen, watched a lot of youtube and read the forums. This one is the best by far.
A few details, the extractor on it's own was way too loud so I put the stock muffler on which killed the power so I made it into a glass pack by gutting the internals, drilling several more holes in the pipe, wrapped it loosely with expanded screen and filled the cavity with fibre glass. Works great not too loud.
The stock rear sprocket was drilled to mount on the disc brake hub but found it way too fast and had no hill climbing power so I bolted the 52 to the 44.

bike.jpg
 

robe

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I came up with the 40:1 from Bikeberry and Hughes Motorized. I thought they seemed quite knowledgeable. In the past I have always used 30:1 in my chainsaws and they still run fine after over 20 years.

Yesterday my bike started to make a loud ticking noise at idle, a definite change in tone. I may have killed it already. Any idea what that might be?

Speaking of chainsaws, I have been painting summer weight chain oil on my chain, really seems to stay on and not fling off.
 

Chainlube

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I came up with the 40:1 from Bikeberry and Hughes Motorized. I thought they seemed quite knowledgeable. In the past I have always used 30:1 in my chainsaws and they still run fine after over 20 years.

Yesterday my bike started to make a loud ticking noise at idle, a definite change in tone. I may have killed it already. Any idea what that might be?

Speaking of chainsaws, I have been painting summer weight chain oil on my chain, really seems to stay on and not fling off.
Check the torque on the head bolts. If the compression is coming out, the head gasket will make a funny noise.
 

robe

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Thank you Sir. That's exactly what had happened. I faithfully checked the head bolts after the first few rides and haven't done it for a while. Sure enough they weren't very tight. I removed the head to have a look and all is well, just the faintest scratches in a couple spots.

I worry too much, I thought I broke a ring or something nasty like that.

I am going to drain the gas and add some more oil to go about 32:1 as suggested. As long as it doesn't smoke I'm good, cheap insurance.

As Damien said I have a lot of hills. There are two ways to go to my house, one is steep but over quick the other is more gradual but 2km long and it does get warm continuously pulling.
 

Chainlube

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So far I've done everything wrong, fenders, quick release wheels, too lean on the oil and aluminium frame. Lol.
Don't worry too much, some of the aluminum frames are super strong and are going to outlast the engine on them. My 4X bike is aluminum.
 

robe

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Don't worry too much, some of the aluminum frames are super strong and are going to outlast the engine on them. My 4X bike is aluminum.
Thanks. As long as I give it regular inspections it should be good for several years. One thing I notice is just how rigid the frame is, no flex at all. I had some high end steel framed bikes and found the frame flex unsettling while hard cornering.

I looked into it a bit and lots of motorcycles have aluminium frames, they seem to last a while.

Down hill MTB racers forum said they will last a few years before starting to develop stress cracks at the welds. Their frame of choice is carbon fibre, definitely not the material for a MB frame.

I see most of CDH power's MB frames are aluminium, for better or worse I guess.

I do now understand that aluminium is not the best frame material due to it's work hardening over time but as they say, you bought it, you got it.
 
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