Carby my carb won't fit!!!

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Here is my carburetor fix, I hope this works, now I just have a few things I still need to do before first start,
-left grip too loose, I guess I'll need to get some double stick tape for that
-kill switch, mine did not come with one, I have something that should work for that
-solder wires, heat shrink as per your suggestions
-front brake
-mix gas, fill tank
-cross fingers
hope to be riding this weekend!!
 

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while hooking up a kill switch, I noticed all leads coming out of engine (blue black and white) have continuity to ground. can this be right? I'm no electrical wizard but this doesn't seem right, I know I'm off topic here but I could use some expert advice
 
Kill Switch

Yeah Dan, To kill it thats what you want to do, ground it out. FORGET THE WHITE WIRE. When you push the kill switch it will ground the connection at the blue wires. So from the kill switch, one wire to the frame or engine, the other to the BLUE wires. It's like if you left your blue wires bare and it touched the frame or engine, The engine would die. Thats all you're doing with the kill switch, grounding the blue wires when you push the button.
 
Thanks BR , but the issue is that without the kill switch even connected, I have continuity from all three wires to ground, now I haven't tried to start it yet but this is something I noticed while hooking up the kill switch, its already grounded. Does not seam right to me. I'll know more tonight when I try the first start
 
Ground

Sorry Dan, I guess I misunderstood. I've never checked for the ground like that, Never thought to. I hook em up and they either run or not. If it's a new engine I think it would be good, but you never know. Just wire it up and see.
Big Red.
 
Hey no problem BR, looks like it was fine all along. I put some gas in her and to my surprise she she fired right up! Had to adjust the throttle cable a bit so she would idle with out dying, I guess these new engines are designed to shut off when you let off the throttle, thus you don't need a kill switch, but that's a real pain, so I had to back the adjuster way up and now it idles just fine, then added my own kill switch

Seems to be lacking power though, maybe it just needs to break in a little? or it could be the offset in the intake that I added, any tips on getting more power?

The chain did stretch out a bit, I think Ill be taking out another link, and I think I need to round off the teeth in small sprocket, it seems to be grabbing a bit and making the chain bounce and rattle.
Thanks for all the help, what a great site!!
This was fun, but now its time to ride!!
 

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Seems to be lacking power though, maybe it just needs to break in a little? or it could be the offset in the intake that I added, any tips on getting more power?

Lacking power as it is a new engine. After run in it should gain more power. So before trying to add more power run it in and see if you need it afterwards.

Best tip that can give you an increase in power is chancing the exhaust, porting your engine, Intake and or stock exhaust to match the engine ports. Performance carb or you could increase the jet size of the stock carb with a small drill bit.

but run her in first to see what performance/power she will give you.
 
On the road.

Hey Dan, Looks like a nice clean build. Good job. As for more power, everything Adrian said except drilling the jet. Just buy a few different sizes and try them to see which one is best. This way, if it don't help, you can always go back to the stock one.
As for the idle adjustment, do that from the idle screw on the side of the carb. Just screw it in untill the idle is good. Using the cable for throttle adjustment leaves you open for minor problems in the idle dept. Loosen the throttle cable some, THEN adjust your idle with the screw. Then adjust the cable so there's just a smidgen of slack in it, Just enough so you know the cable is not holding up the slide. Easy as 1 2 3. I just finished a customer build yesterday and it took about six turns in on the idle screw to get it good. Sometimes it will idle higher after it warms up. Using the screw instead of the cable will allow you to quickly adjust the idle at a stop sign or whatever.
The only other thing I might add is putting some rubber under the front mount U-bolt. The vibration from the engine could make the U-bolt wear into the frame. A small piece of REAL HARD rubber would prevent this.
Anyway, good job. Remember to break her in easy. And just enjoy the ride.
Big Red.
P.S. Give the chain a few miles to settle in before you file anything. New metal on metal can sometimes start out a little,(but only a little,) rough. It should smooth out quickly.
 
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Hey no problem BR, looks like it was fine all along. I put some gas in her and to my surprise she she fired right up! Had to adjust the throttle cable a bit so she would idle with out dying, I guess these new engines are designed to shut off when you let off the throttle, thus you don't need a kill switch, but that's a real pain, so I had to back the adjuster way up and now it idles just fine, then added my own kill switch

Seems to be lacking power though, maybe it just needs to break in a little? or it could be the offset in the intake that I added, any tips on getting more power?

The chain did stretch out a bit, I think Ill be taking out another link, and I think I need to round off the teeth in small sprocket, it seems to be grabbing a bit and making the chain bounce and rattle.
Thanks for all the help, what a great site!!
This was fun, but now its time to ride!!
Looks like the carb could be a little more level. It's just plastic, Try heating and bending it to level.
Big Red.
 
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