My carburetor isn't fitting on the frame. What's the best way to fix it?

He's talking about the part that screws into the case that you put the cable through before you attach it to the clutch arm. If you screw it down more you will have a little more clearance for the carb.
Hm, if you're referring to this, it already seems to be pretty tightened down. It doesn't budge, and if it were somehow lowered I think it would be a much more awkward fit for the cable to path through it.
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It's a DISASTER now and needs to be fixed. It needs to be inline with the cable direction in order to not cause premature wear/resistance. Once you get the correct offset intake the issue might go away and be better positioned to lower it. The way it is in the pic will not work.
 
I feel like there's no way to get this to fit other than to completely re-mount the engine at a different angle, but I'm not sure how to go about that since I'm pretty sure I have it mounted on the way it's supposed to be. It would also mean having to undo and redo a lot of stuff like the chain and pully alignment which was hard for me since this is my first attempt at a build. What should I do?

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You may want to try what I did. I bought an extended manifold.... they are Z shaped. I used a hack saw to cut off the last bend (see pictures.) It puts the carb just to the side of the frame.
 

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It's a DISASTER now and needs to be fixed. It needs to be inline with the cable direction in order to not cause premature wear/resistance. Once you get the correct offset intake the issue might go away and be better positioned to lower it. The way it is in the pic will not work.
Hm, well I at least tried rotating it here and re threading the cable so that it has a more straight path through.
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However, in terms of how high up it is, it already seems to be flush with where the cable runs. If I somehow tightened that all the way down, it would scrunch the cable, no?
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I found that the clutch is actually MUCH easier to pull now compared to how it was before after making these changes.
 

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Hm, well I at least tried rotating it here and re threading the cable so that it has a more straight path through.
Your clutch actuator arm is too far outward...You did not push or compress the arm inward when reconnecting it to the cable...its supposed to be parallel with the bike and engine alignments and the return spring is also missing which would have tipped you off that the arm is on incorrectly as the spring pushes against the arm helping to give it reverse tension when installed properly...your clutch will not work like this...When installed correctly, it should look like the picture below...And your pic is below my pic so you can readily see the difference...DAMIEN

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Your clutch actuator arm is too far outward...You did not push or compress the arm inward when reconnecting it to the cable...its supposed to be parallel with the bike and engine alignments and the return spring is also missing which would have tipped you off that the arm is on incorrectly as the spring pushes against the arm helping to give it reverse tension when installed properly...your clutch will not work like this...When installed correctly, it should look like the picture below...And your pic is below my pic so you can readily see the difference...DAMIEN

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I don't think it's a big problem, might want to tighten the clutch cable if needed, but as long as it disengages when you pull it in and engages when it's not it should be good enough. For fitting the carb. I think the straight intake will probably work and the offset intake will definitely work. Did you try taking the air filter off and mounting the carb and then trying to put the filter back on?
 
I don't think it's a big problem, might want to tighten the clutch cable if needed, but as long as it disengages when you pull it in and engages when it's not it should be good enough. For fitting the carb. I think the straight intake will probably work and the offset intake will definitely work. Did you try taking the air filter off and mounting the carb and then trying to put the filter back on?
I actually did give that a shot and there is simply no room, straight up. The short or offset intake is gonna be a must it seems.
 
Your clutch actuator arm is too far outward...You did not push or compress the arm inward when reconnecting it to the cable...its supposed to be parallel with the bike and engine alignments and the return spring is also missing which would have tipped you off that the arm is on incorrectly as the spring pushes against the arm helping to give it reverse tension when installed properly...your clutch will not work like this...When installed correctly, it should look like the picture below...And your pic is below my pic so you can readily see the difference...DAMIEN

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I was having trouble getting it to be parallel because the arm forceably pushes outwards REALLY strongly for some reason, but I actually did manage to tighten it to the cable enough that it looks like your photo now. I actually read in another thread on here that the little cable spring is optional and removing it can help with a sticky clutch, and I did find it to help with being able to pull it more easily.
 
I was having trouble getting it to be parallel because the arm forceably pushes outwards REALLY strongly for some reason, but I actually did manage to tighten it to the cable enough that it looks like your photo now. I actually read in another thread on here that the little cable spring is optional and removing it can help with a sticky clutch, and I did find it to help with being able to pull it more easily.
Those clutch arms are not always made to spec, in fact nothing from China is, haha, but as long as it works the clutch it should be okay.
 
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