Timbone
Well-Known Member
I have ridden all Summer with my own version of a chain tensioner and I have had zero issues. You just have to make sure it is centered for the chain and kept at proper tension. The two guide washers must be stainless steel because there will be contact. But light contact by a 415 chain does very little!The first picture shows the hard nylon washer that served as the chain interface. What's cool is you can see how the chain formed a gear like surface! It would have lasted a lot longer but since I was checking it out, I figured I should just go ahead and replace the nylon washer surface. It only costs pennies to keep new!
I use 4 nylon washers with a 3/8" round hole that fits on a 2" clevis 5/16" thick. The clevis is still straight and shows little wear. Again, it is stainless.
Last time, I superglued the washers together (2 skinny ones, big one, other skinny one) but the oil/ gas must have eaten that away. Since the hole thing is held by pressure, the glue isn't necessary anyway. There will be no gaps.
The photo shows the exact position of all the pieces, regardless of which direction the photo is shown. The biggest washers for the chain guides are 2" fender washers made of stainless steel. You can use either 5/16" or 3/8" center holes for the clevis. The smaller washers are 1 1/2" x 5/16". I suspect that a big reason this works so well is that there is so much give in the system. Every part can move if stressed enough.
The final assembly, from inside to out is: clevis, small washer, big guide washer, nylon washers, big guide washer, small washer, stock chain tension attachment, small washer (or washers as needed to make a very tight fit) for the cotter pin. In my photo, I show two outer washers but I only needed one.
This works for me!
Timbone
