My clutch arm is stiff to pull in, which makes the lever really hard to pull in,{80cc kit}

inspectorcritic

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2015
Messages
1,847
I had the same problem it may be your cable! I bought a complete cable set from Ace Hardware thought it work out even if the cable was a little bit too long. Go to a bike shop buy or steal don't care how you acquire a new cable with housing. May solve your problem. I took my complete package back they went over the return with a magnifying glass but the bike shop stuff did the trick without a snag or a drag.
 

Shawnandkate8

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2021
Messages
32
Hopefully you didnt lose the round little steel bearing in that little hole that the bucking bar goes into...Did you notice that the bucking bar has a concave end on it that rests against the ball bearing???...I will bet that your ground down bolt does not have a concave to it...lol...that is so the ball can "turn" and not cause excessive wear to the bucking bar or or the other components when engaging the clutch and requires a dab of either white lithium grease or some "red and tacky" on both the concave end as well as the other end of the bucking bar on a periodic basis...DAMIEN
Yea I lost both pieces. 🤦🏻‍♂️ Just my luck. Got new parts already installed and it’s runnin like a scalded donkey! Clutch is supper smooth now that I was able to adjust it and took some tension off. Think I got lucky with this batch because I’ve heard of some horror stories bout haunted motors lol. New carb jets should be in today and then after I change up to a new fuel ratio Ile fine tune that baby too. It’s killing my not to be able to really get on it yet but I can feel it, this bike wants to go. And so do I!!
 

Shawnandkate8

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2021
Messages
32
First ride i take, i slip my clutch hard on a rake off. In hopes it wears all the pads even quicker. These pads are the hardest longest lived part on these bikes. Takes a few miles to get the pucks all worn even. Usually after first tanks they are even and grabbing good, so i back off on slipping it and ride normal. Just dont slip it to much or two hard. One good hard one to start and then easier on it. You'll know when they are all the same height, stops whining and screeching so much when ya pull away from a stop.
Yea once I got the new bucking bar the new clutch was a little whiny. I did some slip starts, nothing excessive, and readjusted my flower nut and wah-la! Very excited about how’s its turning out. Wish i would have done this years ago!
 

Aikaru

Active Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2021
Messages
267
i recently bought a kit online and it came in the mail and im putting on the bike now . i already put it together but i have never started it up because the clutch wont disengage, so i did researching an couldn't find an answer to my problem so my supposed motorised bike sat there for a month, now im attempting it again but now there clutch arm is hard to push in compared to before with makes the lever on the handlebars really hard to pull in, im really about to quit trying. i feel this bike is not going to work out, because theres always a problem just as i think its done,

any answer will be appreciated

have a nice day p
a lot of cheap chinese kits won't grease the clutch spring from factory, leaving it basically bone dry. Those springs are what release and hold tension on your clutch plate when you engage and disengage. The coils are extremely thick and without lubricant, they are hard to press down. If you have a grease gun, get yourself a tube of red high temp lubricant. There should be a little silver cable guider that screws into your clutch spring assembly. It is located between the clutch assembly itself and the drive sprocket. Take your clutch cable out and unscrew that little silver piece, and it will expose the clutch spring assembly. Then take your grease gun and pump a little bit of red grease into their and spin it around. Don't overdue it or you could accidently lube your clutch pads and that will spell disaster.
 
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