My Dual Suspension Road Racer

Discussion in 'Photos & Bicycle Builds' started by Flattracker, Dec 6, 2009.

  1. Flattracker

    Flattracker Member

    I think that MY holy grail in motorized bikes has been a dual suspension bike. I wanted a mid frame engine bike for a start. The frame HAD to be dual suspension. I found only one bike that fit the bill. The only one so far that I know of and here it is:
    Kent Glendale Dual Suspension Comfort Series 26" 7 speed
    Its got:
    "H*ll Bent" 6deg. swept back bars,

    70cc engine kit from "thatsdax!",

    Expansion Chamber exhaust system, combined F/R brake lever, front no drill engine mount from "Spookytooth Cycles",



    and it features a "direct chain drive" hub mounted driven sprocket, bolted to a black 26 inch "Teny" Aluminum/Magnisium alloy 7speed freewheel wheel rear that gives you a PERFECTLY straight sprocket alignment. No spokes to maintain, or replace EVER!
    Well, what yall think?

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 6, 2009

  2. machiasmort

    machiasmort Active Member

    Nice build! I'm very envious! Where did you aquire the bike? And what did the spring come out of, for your tensioner?

    I've had a similar idea floating in my head (tensioner) but the frame is what makes it all work!
  3. Flattracker

    Flattracker Member

    Where did you aquire the bike? And what did the spring come out of, for your tensione

    I got the bike off the internet. $190 with shipping. Walmart used to carry them, but I think they're a discontinued model. The idler spring is a generic automotive manual transmission clutch lever return spring. Its under maybe about 30, to 50 lbs force and cost 7 dollars at the local parts house. There's also a "Cadillac AVP-1" that costs $500 and up. Its identical to the Glendale I own, except it has front/back disc brakes. Very beautiful bike.
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2009
  4. give me vtec

    give me vtec Active Member

    any lag with that intake setup???

    Looks cool though... Does the sprocket bolt to that wheel?
  5. Flattracker

    Flattracker Member

    any lag?

    To be honest I have not even started the engine yet!

    I've pedaled it around to check the chains alignment, and to see if it would jump off the sprocket while riding, (it didn't) but have not actually fired the engine up on this bike yet.

    HOWEVER, I had that exhaust on my other daily ridden, motorized bike. Its my first a beater I call the "road warrior".

    Its also my test platform for modifications. It was loud as H*ll! I dont recall a lag in throttle response at all.

    It did SEEM to be going slower because of all the extra noise, but a quick glance at the speedometer confirmed I was cruising at normal speed.

    The sprocket center hole has to be enlarged to 53mm to 54mm to fit over the "Teny" wheels hub. The adapter fits like a cap over the end of the hub, and I have six 5x20mm socket head bolts securing it. Dont use soft chinese hardware here. Use grade 8 hardened steel for the sprocket to adapter.

    The sprocket then bolts to the adapter. Adjust the chain left/right by adding washers and/or flipping the dished sprocket to the best position for your bikes alignment.

    There are three washers between my sprocket and the adapter on each bolt to give the needed alignment. The adapter is called the "Top Hat" and is sold by a guy on ebay. These are his photos from ebay. search for sprocket adapter and you'll see his stuff.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 6, 2009
  6. S.O.G.

    S.O.G. New Member

    Man, Im jealous of this one.. I want suspension on mine! I like that intake too.

  7. shawnshank

    shawnshank Member

    Can you talk about the carb manifold? What is it and why is it so long?
  8. Flattracker

    Flattracker Member

    Reason for Intake length

    Hi guys, I had to extend the intake using a 3/4 in fuel resistant hose found on ebay.

    The reason for the extension is to make room to mount the carburetor, and performance air filter. There's not enough room to mount this type of air filter in the stock position( its designed for a pocket bike) on any normal bicycle, so I found a spot to mount it to, and bought the fuel line.

    I am using a 50cc pocket bike carb (ebay) as they are better carb's equipped with a fuel shut off, teflon coated slide, a stronger slide return spring, and a mixture set screw.

    My pocket bike carb uses a two hole stud system just like the bike engines exhaust, and intake manifolds.

    To connect the carb to the extended engine intake manifold, I sawed off the end (at the angle) of a stock intake manifold, turned it around backwards using a stock gasket to seal it, and pointed it down to better align it with the engines intake manifold.

    The stock intake manifolds stud holes are a little closer together than the carb's stud holes, but the stock gasket will seal the union between the two.

    Theres only about a .5mm or less difference in the spacing of the hole pattern between the carb and stock intake manifold holes, but a round file elongating the holes makes it work!

    The carb itself is attached to the bike using an " L" shaped piece of mild .25 steel that is secured to the top bracket of the rear suspension spring using a self tapping screw.
  9. shawnshank

    shawnshank Member

    Nice! What is your top speed and how much did you gain by adding that new carb?

  10. Flattracker

    Flattracker Member

    Nice! What is your top speed and how much did you gain by adding that new carb?

    Actually I'm not ready to ride yet. I have not even gassed it up yet! I have been toying with the idea of selling it, but I have a few more upgrades before I'm ready to roll. Thats the main reason I'm keeping it new, and unridden.

    I've already invested over $830 just buying the parts needed for this project, and I aint done yet! I intend to buy the "shifter kit" to install too. I NEED GEARS!

    I am revising my spring loaded chain tensioner. My Test bike reveled that the plastic pully is not durable enough to last for very long under spring pressure.

    I have ordered a heavy duty steel ball bearing #40 idler sprocket which has the same pitch as the stock #415 chain to replace the stock plastic pulley.

    I have also ordered a suspension seatpost, a motorcycle hi/lo beam 25 watt headlight, a motorcycle headlight switch, a SLA 12v 2.2Amp battery, and a "Mini-Gen-Max" 12volt generator (ebay) to slow the battery drain. I 'll have to put together a rectifier circuit between the battery and AC generator to produce DC current for charging the battery,

    If I can find a lower, 10 watt bulb for the headlight there will be NO battery drain!

    The ultimate goal for my chicom engine setup as far as possible is, Honda motorcycle reliability, durability, and motorcycle benefits without the needed hassel of Dl, registration, and insurance requirements.

    Oh yeah, for those haters that say "why not just buy a motorcycle", I do own a Ford F-100 pickup truck, and a full dress classic 1980 Yamaha XS850 special for which I do have a DL, and I do operate and keep registered and insured.
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2009
  11. shawnshank

    shawnshank Member

    I assume you'll test it out to make sure it runs before you sell it?
    When you do, let me know what you get for a top speed.
    I have a carb I'm waiting to put on my kit and I can't wait for the extra speed.
    My bike goes pretty fast as it is (34 mph) so I'm curious how much gain I'll get out of the carb, racing style air filter (like yours) and a power pipe. I'm guessing I'll be close to if not at 40 mph when she's wide open. Ohh yeah!
  12. Flattracker

    Flattracker Member

    I assume you'll test it out to make sure it runs before you sell it?

    Oh Yeah! Ill have to at least crank it up before I try to sell it. I wouldn't want to sell anything substandard.

    I dont think I'll EVER get all the money back that I put into it, thats why I said I'm 'toying' with the idea of selling it.

    My other motorized 'daily beater' is my test platform for modifications. I experiment on it, then if it works I incorporate the design improvments into the new bike.

    So unless the brand new engine is defective, everything operates as it should.

    My beater can attain over 35mph on level ground and its totally stock, but over 30mph the engine vibrates too much for my tastes.
  13. eastwoodo4

    eastwoodo4 Member

    wonder if the intake being so long could have an affect on the fuel atomization,by the time it gets to the cylinder?
  14. Flattracker

    Flattracker Member


    Well, I still have not cranked up my 'Rural Assault Vehicle' project yet. I'm waiting for the 3.5 in chrome headlight to come in.

    I've mounted the 12v 2.2amp battery, and the 12v "Mini-Gen-Max" generator. I've also rigged a 2amp rectifier to the "Mini-Gen-Max" to provide a DC current source to charge the battery. There is no charge regulator.

    I found a left handlebar switch cluster on ebay for about $15 American dollars. It includes switches for the turn signals, headlight on/off, hi/lo beam headlight, parking lights, horn, and most importantly to me is the intergrated choke lever!

    I took an automotive choke activation wire removed it from its casing, and cut off the dash knob. Then threaded it through a black bicycle cable casing for looks.

    Next I modified the choke lever to accept the solid choke activation wire simply by measuring the reach, and throw of the lever, and melting a small hole for the wire. A dab of "J-B Weld" secures the casing nice and tight in the socket and prevents it from sliding with the activation wire. This arrangement is semi permanent and still allows for repair and replacement of the choke activation components.

    In the rear with the carb, I drilled two small holes through the choke lever tabs
    for the activation wire.

    The next step for the choke cable installation is CRUCIAL and must be measured correctly, and the choke wire casing has to be secured tightly close by the choke lever to prevent it from sliding with the choke activator wire.

    Then use a swaged ball (hardware store, cable/chain section) on top of the lever. this allows the activator wire to push on the choke lever to open it.

    Last step was to thread the activator wire through the holes, measure the action of the choke activator wire and cut any excess. With needle nose pliers bend the activator wire around the lever tab. This allows the wire to pull the choke lever up, thus closing the choke!

    It took me about six hours to engineer,measure, cut and mount the choke operation device for this bicycle.

    NOW. About that 'long intake'. I've setup the same carb system on my daily rider/test vehicle with the long rubber intake.


    However there is a difference in the way the engine runs. The rubber intake flexes in and out as the engine sucks in its fuel/air mixture. You cant feel this pulsating of the rubber hose for the engines vibration. This flexing of the rubber intake PREVENTS the engine from sucking fuel as hard as it could with a rigid intake.

    This (I'll call it a delay) in the fuel intake cycle makes the throttle response SLOW. This is the CON. Read on for the PRO's.


    I can still get to my normal 25 to 35 mph speed range, but it developes slower and like I mentioned before, the throttle response is slower. It took a little getting used to, and I had to set the carb idle screw to full rpm. I changed the throttle cable and I changed the carb needle position so that affects things also. I'll play with the needle position a little more.

    I plan to replace the flexable rubber intake extension with a solid 3/4 in copper intake setup. That should cure the slow throttle response, while keeping the 'boost bottle' effect without having to but an actual boost bootle! I'll add photos soon.

    But personally, the difference in the engines operation dosen't bother me.
  15. Flattracker

    Flattracker Member

    photos of my latest additions

    Here are the photos of the choke settup, and 12 v battery mounting position.

    I plan to buy an identical battery to mount to the other side of the frame, and wire it in parallel to the existing battery to increase the power capacity for the soon to be added horn, and turn signal lights!

    I used an empty .177 cal. pellet box to contain the rectifier and its wiring for looks. I used an old section of inner tube to cover the battery in rubber to help prevent it from shifting.

    Included in the photos is my black test/research bike (before I extended the carb to the rear so I could have enough room to use a better air filter) which I ride almost daily, and is my first build. It has an extended stem so I can cruise upright. Its the most comfortable riding position for long trips. I added the rear rack, and extra 1 gallon tank for long range cruising. They're connected together with a fuel 'T' fitting and each tank has its own fuel filter and fuel shut off pitcock.

    Also, a photo of my green non motorized bike with red Teny one piece wheels which I've owned for five years with no problems. I did have the front red wheel on my motorized test vehicle for a couple of years and put over 600 miles on it with no adverse effects to the wheel or bearings.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 23, 2010