My electric build - SUCCESS!

All the math doesn't really matter

I don't have a Cyclone YET. But I've wanted one since before i bought my e-zip.
Here are links to both:
Cyclone home - http://www.cyclone-tw.com/index.html
Cyclone order - http://www.cyclone-tw.com/order.htm
E-Zip - http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=8467094

I forgot to add in my last post. All the math doesn't really matter, what matters is it work and your having a blast!

I just ordered direct replacement batteries for my E-Zip from www.electricscooterparts.com! Small World!

Its late and I'm tired. Rode E-Zip home for 1st time in a light steady rain.
 
That cyclone site is impressive. They seem to have done a good job for electric bike kits. Still a bit more expensive than my design, but definitely more efficient being able to use the bikes gears.

Are those wattages peak or sustained? If sustained, that's very impressive.

The motor I ordered is 1000w sustained, should be 1500 peak, or almost double what the one I have right now is.

Too bad the batteries are so expensive. Man, that is the only thing holding back electric bikes. Otherwise you could strap up 30ah of LiFePo batteries and take you anywhere you need to go realistically. I have about 20ah of "useable" energy from these two SLAs, and at $70 shipped they aren't too bad. Although I don't expect to ever "save" money overall with this bike, it's still worth it for the fun.
 
LiPo's are not expensive at all in my opinion. They last 10x's more cycles 5X's the range from each cycle. You would have to get 50 of those $70 SLA packs to go as far as 1 pack of 20Ah 24VLiFePo4 batteries. SLA would cost $3500. LiPo would cost $750 and the all important BMS & charger is included. What's the better deal? But there is a technology that may put SLA's on top of the value heap. Electronic Desulfators.
I asked about them at www.endless-sphere.com, but I may have stumped the brain trust. LOL
Electronic Desulfators:
http://www.batterylifesaver.com/
http://www.absak.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/850

Oh, back to the Cyclone, the key to thier design is the crank freewheel. You could use any batt and any motor. The crank freewheel ships for about $100.
The watts are probably peak bigger #'s sell.

You'll save money with your bike if you USE it. I have close 1000 miles on my E-Zip. 50 cents a mile and dropping.
 
The cyclone kit honestly looks like the smart choice for someone who wants to electric their bike. Might cost a bit more but the less hassle would be worth it.

How do you figure that LiFePo4 batteries get 5x the range of equivalent ah SLAs? I would agree they would be about double, but FIVE TIMES???? And yes the life span is much longer, so in the long haul they are worth it. I probably will invest in a 36v pack for my new design, my goal was a faster lighter electric bike for under $1000, and that will be possible.

Cyclone says the peak watts of it's 1500w motor is 1855, still pretty good. Haha.

What do you think of the China LiFePo4 packs listed on ebay in the $500 range?

How far can you go on your 24v 20ah LiFePo4 pack? At what speed and how much pedaling?
 
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See my time of post. honestly guessing at range :rolleyes: don't have them. i think read it somewhere someone was going 50mi.

I avoid eBAy entirely for anything. Its like a a box of chocolates, you never know what you'll get!!

I don't think pedaling is much of a factor with those. It would go faster that you can pedal in high gear.

Move motor here?? see pic
 

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Well, with the rack there, that's not a great option. But I am thinking of having a very secure stiff mount designed so that the motor can be placed behind the axle, away from everything, and help the center of gravity be lower. Hmm maybe even underneath the axle... Won't be super aero, but that's a very small factor at these speeds.

My intention is to make it secure enough that I don't worry about it budging loose on bumpy roads.

Hmm 50 miles? Well, 36v x 20ah = 720 watt hours. If you pedal a lot (only use motor on hills) you could probably do that. But I assume that normal riding will consume 250-400 watts an hour depending on hills.

50 miles would be my max and desirable range though. I like to go to the shoreline/campground and it's 23 miles one way. It would be a dream to cruise there and back on this electric bike.
 
I was thinking you use the rack in a similar fashion you used the frame.

23 miles, you get just about to that with another set of SLA's.
 
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Hi!
I want to make a bike the same way you did yours.

Could you tell me how you hooked that additional dented wheel at the left of your rear wheel?

Do you think it would be possible to have a gear shift there?

I have an additional question: would it be possible to add a cassette to an automatic gear shift? Of course motor would be on the right then. But it would allow to keep motor's chain short, not having the pedal chain running, and... An automatic gear box!

Thanks,
Nicolas
 
Go to electricscooterparts.com to find the rear sprocket. I hooked it onto the fixed gear bike wheel using a corresponding freewheel mechanism found on that site. The sprocket easily bolts to the freewheel mechanism. I used extra long bolts which driver the spokes, since the threading on the hub is the wrong direction when used on the left side of the bike. It's not a great design, btw. But it works.

If you want gears, your best bet would be to use the bikes gears (cassette). But the problem is mounting a compatible front sprocket on the motor.

The above links in the thread to cyclone are prob the best choice if you want gears. Their system is already tested and much easier to apply.
 
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Hi,
Ok so I think I'll end up without gears. Is your bike ok with steep hills?
I want an electric bike because I live in a place quite high and it's not very well desserved by bus in the evening or the weekend... And it's a pain to walk to go back up that hill xD or to wait an hour for a bus to go down it...
Plus it's fun to make one, and it's inexpensive (why I don't want a ready to use kit: I don't want to put +400$ in it!).

Geared systems are quite noisy. Yours is not, and that's cool :) .
I noticed the 1000W motor you pointed is the same as in Currie 1000W systems, also...
Can we remove that 15T wheel from the motor axis and use another, compatible with bike gears, if I ever want to?

I don't fully understand what you made to put all that together:
On the rear wheel, you had to put a 80T sprocket, matching with the motor's one. Ok.
But why did you added a freewheel? I thought there was one included with these motors. Was it to lighten the load when pedaling? Or because there is no other way to bolt this rear sprocket to the wheel?

What did you screwed this sprocket on? Could you maybe give me some more photos of your setup, or a little drawing?

Last one: If I'm right, with DC brushless motors, the lower the voltage the lower the speed, but the higher the current higher the torque. And, the lower the speed the higher the torque. So if I run at slow speed but with sturdy electronics behind allowing it to pump a lot of Amps, I may have a lot of torque too... So to run up the steep hill, and compensate for not having a cassette. Is it correct?


Thank you very much :)
Nicolas
 
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