My first build (in progress)

Hey all! I posted a couple weeks ago that I had ordered a motor and shift kit and that I was looking forward to the project of putting it all together with the bike. I just wanted to tell everyone how the process went, and where I'm at with the whole thing.

So, I got a 80cc engine kit, a sbp shift kit, and a rear rack tank. Install went smoothly, although there were a few small problems. Some of the problems were from my own stupidity, and others were based on the cheapness of parts on the engine kit.

Problems I experienced:

The instructions told me to drill a hole through the handlebar to fit the little nipple on the throttle into so that it wouldn't slide around and it would be secure. I drilled the hole, secured the throttle, and with the first test twist of the throttle, the nipple sheared off. One of the holes for the bolts that hold the throttle together just stripped, I assume from me tightening and untightening it a few times. So, I drilled the rest of the way through the handlebar and drilled through the throttle and put a big bolt through the whole thing to hold everything together. That seems to work fine now.

The inline fuel filter seriously broke apart in my hand. I've seen through reading these forums that it is best to use a different fuel filter but I just wanted to install, and get the thing running. well, I ordered a new fuel filter from Dax (as well as a new spark plug) so that should be that as soon as it arrives. I also had to order some extra fuel line because I bought the rear rack tank and the line wouldn't reach that far. that is all ordered.

Speaking of the rear tank. Two issues with that: The part that attaches to the fuel line looks way smaller than the corresponding part on the carb. I'm thinking that the connection at the fuel tank is going to be loose. I'm not sure yet because I'm waiting on the line to arrive. The other problem with the fuel tank was where the cap fits into the tank. There's like an extra bit of metal there that won't allow me to twist the cap on. I was going to return the tank and get a new one, but I've decided to file down that bit of metal and hope that works.

The last problem that Iexperienced was directly from my own stupidity. I didn't order the bottom bracket remover when I got the shift kit. I tried to remove the thing myself and ended up making a mess of it. I took the bike to a bike shop and they tried to pull out the old bracket and replace it with the one from the kit, but the thread on the frame are messed up and they need to be retapped. ugh. They didn't have time to do it then, so I am going back tomorrow and having them retap and install the SBP kit bottom bracket.


I'm hoping after all these issues are addressed, I will have a motorized bicycle and not a bicycle with an extra 30lb of metal stuck to it. I ride my bike to work everyday, and it's a bit of a pain right now because I removed the front derailer for the shift kit install.

I'm kind of worried about the clutch. If my thinking is correct, when the clutch lever is pulled in and locked, the chains should spin free. I don't currently have the last chain on the shift kit because I have to replace the bottom bracket, but when I have the clutch lever pulled in and locked, i thought i would be able to move the chains with my hand. kind of spin them around. That is not the cace. this might be something to address after I get everything done, I'm not sure. I know that thing turns, because I had the spark plug wrench on it and was turning it when I fit the one chain on. IDK, we will see.

Hey I would like to thank all the people in this forum. I'm no professional, in fact, I was unsure how this whole process would be possible. But you all answered many questions for me through that wonderful search window on these forums.

Tanks guys. Hopefully my next post will be about how awesome everything is working and how fun it is


Later

DeD

 

[Ollie]

Hey Dave, I've had the same issue with the clutch on both of my kits. I think the system is just a bit rough when they're new and it takes some cycling around with the clutch pulled to make the cog turn smoothly. With my old kit I can now turn the drive cog by hand with the clutch pulled, but my new engine hasn't been fitted to a bike yet and is stiff as hell. This info is just from my personal experience though, I invite anyone with more concrete knowledge to correct me.

 

[V 35]

Cheesy throttle spoils the fun

Yes, the kit throttles are a disappointment. Too bad a better one doesn't come with kit . Ironicly, only the cheapo throttle requires the drilled hole. BikeBerry sold an all metal ' acellerator grip retainer ' That used a BikeBerry throttle cable, requires an added kill button [ I've got an ATV kill button ]. Crude looking, all metal, works great, for more money, Tomoso makes a very slick adjustable throttle, got one on my Huffy, works super smooth, pricey, but worth it Pirate Cycle usually has them in stock
Pit Bike / small dirt bike may have a suitable setup *** Hint *** Dirt bikes tend to use tall carburators, with long slide travel
Using a long slide throttle results in going from idle to W O T in too small a fraction of a turn.

 

[DeadEyeDave]

So! Tonight was the night! I was going to get that damned motor running come hell or high water. Aaaaand, here's how that went.

I got the fuel filter and fuel line from Dax. Got excited and got to work on odds and end that I thought would end in me put-putting off into the sunset.

I figured out the clutch issue through some forum searching and some trial and error. Now when the clutch lever is pulled in, I am in neutral and when i let it out, the motor engages. It all had to do with that clover butterfly nut that pops up when you search for clutch adjustment here.

So, one thing down.

The fuel filter I got from Dax is a little brass looking thing. It looks like a child's spinning top toy. I did not realize that it was not one solid piece and was in fact two not screwed together very well pieces. So after I got all ready and put gas into the tank and got ready for my ride, gas just pretty much poured from the filter. Okay, that issue is now resolved as well. I'm not totally sure if I have the thing on the right way round. There were no instructions nor even an arrow pointing which way the fuel was supposed to be flowing through it.

The issue that killed my dream of getting the thing running (at least for tonight) is the chain on the drive sprocket. ( I'm not sure if I am using the right terminology, it's the chain that's attached to the left side of the jack shaft.) it's one of the heavy duty 415 chains and as soon as I let the clutch out and got REALLY excited after much work and great longing....yeah, it snapped. I don't know exactly why it snapped. Maybe I dropped the clutch too hard, Idk, it was a little loose.

So going forward, I do have enough of that chain to redo the whole thing, but I'm out one master link thingie. That is somewhere in the backyard, I don't know where. It probably flew off into the neighbor's yard for all I know.

I guess tomorrow I will try and use the chain breaker thing and get a loop of chain together without the master link dealie. I'm not sure if I can do that or not, but that's what I'm shooting for.

Tomorrow I will put-put into the sunset. This will happen.


DeD

 

[DeadEyeDave]

So I didn't get the thing running. I don't believe the chain breaker that came with the shift kit is solid enough to break 415 chain. I messed up the chain and the breaker. That is kind of upsetting. I paid over $200 and the shift kit came with a cheesy chain breaker. The pin bent and wrecked one of the links in the chain when I was trying to break it. Anyway, build is on hold for now until I can get to a Tractor Supply and grab a #41 or #42 chain and some master links. I'm not ordering it online if I can get it for a few bucks cheaper in store. From what I've been reading, the #41 or 42 is basically the same as the 415. I will bring a length with me to make sure.

Wikll update in the future.

 

[Philandra Chambliss]

Hey all! I posted a couple weeks ago that I had ordered a motor and shift kit and that I was looking forward to the project of putting it all together with the bike. I just wanted to tell everyone how the process went, and where I'm at with the whole thing.

So, I got a 80cc engine kit, a sbp shift kit, and a rear rack tank. Install went smoothly, although there were a few small problems. Some of the problems were from my own stupidity, and others were based on the cheapness of parts on the engine kit.

Problems I experienced:

The instructions told me to drill a hole through the handlebar to fit the little nipple on the throttle into so that it wouldn't slide around and it would be secure. I drilled the hole, secured the throttle, and with the first test twist of the throttle, the nipple sheared off. One of the holes for the bolts that hold the throttle together just stripped, I assume from me tightening and untightening it a few times. So, I drilled the rest of the way through the handlebar and drilled through the throttle and put a big bolt through the whole thing to hold everything together. That seems to work fine now.

The inline fuel filter seriously broke apart in my hand. I've seen through reading these forums that it is best to use a different fuel filter but I just wanted to install, and get the thing running. well, I ordered a new fuel filter from Dax (as well as a new spark plug) so that should be that as soon as it arrives. I also had to order some extra fuel line because I bought the rear rack tank and the line wouldn't reach that far. that is all ordered.

Speaking of the rear tank. Two issues with that: The part that attaches to the fuel line looks way smaller than the corresponding part on the carb. I'm thinking that the connection at the fuel tank is going to be loose. I'm not sure yet because I'm waiting on the line to arrive. The other problem with the fuel tank was where the cap fits into the tank. There's like an extra bit of metal there that won't allow me to twist the cap on. I was going to return the tank and get a new one, but I've decided to file down that bit of metal and hope that works.

The last problem that Iexperienced was directly from my own stupidity. I didn't order the bottom bracket remover when I got the shift kit. I tried to remove the thing myself and ended up making a mess of it. I took the bike to a bike shop and they tried to pull out the old bracket and replace it with the one from the kit, but the thread on the frame are messed up and they need to be retapped. ugh. They didn't have time to do it then, so I am going back tomorrow and having them retap and install the SBP kit bottom bracket.


I'm hoping after all these issues are addressed, I will have a motorized bicycle and not a bicycle with an extra 30lb of metal stuck to it. I ride my bike to work everyday, and it's a bit of a pain right now because I removed the front derailer for the shift kit install.

I'm kind of worried about the clutch. If my thinking is correct, when the clutch lever is pulled in and locked, the chains should spin free. I don't currently have the last chain on the shift kit because I have to replace the bottom bracket, but when I have the clutch lever pulled in and locked, i thought i would be able to move the chains with my hand. kind of spin them around. That is not the cace. this might be something to address after I get everything done, I'm not sure. I know that thing turns, because I had the spark plug wrench on it and was turning it when I fit the one chain on. IDK, we will see.

Hey I would like to thank all the people in this forum. I'm no professional, in fact, I was unsure how this whole process would be possible. But you all answered many questions for me through that wonderful search window on these forums.

Tanks guys. Hopefully my next post will be about how awesome everything is working and how fun it is


Later

DeD

First thing all bikes have some sort of generic part somehow, take a little dab of jb and put it on the corner shell ....before installing

Let it sit for 24 hours... be sure to not over apply.


Next plastic filters are crap go to auto zone and pickup a high grade set of lines and fuel filter.


Last if your tires still locked up your clutch cable is not pulled back far enough at the motor by far that's the least favorite of my installations every time if you have two sets of low profile grip needle nose vices you can slow inch and lock the cable at the screw then go to the opposite side behind the screw closer in to the spring inch it back some more then set it continue this until once you can free spin the wheel fairly easy by hand. If it locks with slight hand rotation it's not engaged.

 

[Street Ryderz]

First thing all bikes have some sort of generic part somehow, take a little dab of jb and put it on the corner shell ....before installing

Let it sit for 24 hours... be sure to not over apply.


Next plastic filters are crap go to auto zone and pickup a high grade set of lines and fuel filter.


Last if your tires still locked up your clutch cable is not pulled back far enough at the motor by far that's the least favorite of my installations every time if you have two sets of low profile grip needle nose vices you can slow inch and lock the cable at the screw then go to the opposite side behind the screw closer in to the spring inch it back some more then set it continue this until once you can free spin the wheel fairly easy by hand. If it locks with slight hand rotation it's not engaged.

This post was last seen 3 years ago.