my first H

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by winnipeg whizzer, Mar 13, 2013.

  1. winnipeg whizzer

    winnipeg whizzer New Member

    hello to all, i recently had the opportunity to buy a vintage whizzer h model #125767 mounted on what i believe to be a canadian made sunshine bike. i have not seen it in person yet but the previous owner sent me some pics. i don't normally buy things sight unseen but vintage whizzers around here are rare. it would seem that not too many of these made it north over the border. so i leaped at it, i am fairly happy with it it has that nice old style motorcycle look to it. i can see that it is missing a few things. EG: belt guard, front brake, i am not sure but should there be a belt tension-er between the crank pulley and the double pulley. there appears to be a bolt that is way too long and looks like it will hit the pedal, would this be a bolt for holding on the belt guard? i only plan on rebuilding the engine and carb, and whatever else is necessary to get it running. i want to keep it as original as possible, it has a lot of cool factor as is. would anyone be kind enough to let me know if they notice anything else missing, and if i needed to would a carb kit, piston, rings, etc. be available. hopefully i will pick it tonight and can provide more pics.

    whizzer3.jpg whizzer4.jpg whizzer1.jpg whizzer2.jpg

    king regards

  2. jbcruisin

    jbcruisin Member

    The bike might never have had a front brake. It looks nice.
  3. Samdallas214

    Samdallas214 Member

    what a find
  4. WZ507

    WZ507 Member

    My First "H"


    Regarding your question about parts availability, all parts are available for these engines. In addition to the things you mentioned missing, you are missing the ignition coil, the sparkplug wire, and coil guard (cover) that secures the coil in place. The coil mounts behind the primary drive belt on the upper rear side of the flywheel using the 2 cast and threaded bosses on the engine case (one of these threaded holes has the long stud in it you were inquiring about, and no this is not a correct part). The belt cover on the primary drive is mounted to the coil guard, and nothing sticks out on the primary side other than the screw heads that mount the belt cover to the coil guard. You asked about a belt tensioner, and there was none, other than the spring that attaches to the clutch pulley arm and tensions both the primary and secondary belts. You are also missing the air cleaner.

    When you buy a coil, I would recommend that you also buy an ignition module and throw away the points and condenser. The module provides correct timing and eliminates the moving parts (points and points pushrod). If you go this route you'll need a small cork to plug the hole where the points pushrod comes through the engine case. Good luck and show us some more pictures after you pick it up.

    PS - the narrow rims and lightweight spokes suggest that this was a lightweight bike, (not the heavy spoked version made for Whizzers) and therefore likely never had a front brake.
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2013
  5. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    The only part that I know of that is no longer available is the needle bearing in the sidecover.

    There are many Whizzer folks that have made replacement parts for the vintage motors. If you need a list of the suppliers, just ask.

    If you need any additional information, just ask!

    Have fun,
  6. winnipeg whizzer

    winnipeg whizzer New Member

    hello again and thank you all for your compliments and information. long story but i finally got a chance to pick up my whizzer, i removed the basket and 8 layers of stuff covering the seat and gave her a little wipe.

    i see what you mean by a lightweight bike as the frame has been repaired. it is actually a royal flyer, could not really find any info on it. the coil was actually in the basket so i just kinda put in place. i have not tested it yet but if it still works, can i just get a module for it and remove the condenser. also if i were to rebuild the carb and fix the ignition system, change the oil (straight 40 ?) etc. would it be unwise to try and start the engine without first rebuilding it.

    anyway here are a few more pics, hopefully i will get a chance to start on it this weekend. once again thank you, i will be sure to have more questions in the near future :)
    kind regards
    dan WHIZZER 022.jpg WHIZZER 019.jpg WHIZZER 020.jpg WHIZZER 021.jpg WHIZZER 025.jpg WHIZZER 027.jpg WHIZZER 028.jpg WHIZZER 030.jpg
  7. WZ507

    WZ507 Member


    If it was mine I'd definitely try to start it before tearing it down. By the looks of it (no air cleaner), there's already been so much debris through it I don't see how you could hurt anything worse than it's already been hurt.

    I'd start by checking to see if it has compression (be sure the compression release lever is free). If yes you're in good shape. If no the EX valve is likely stuck and sometimes can be coaxed loose with WD-40 and a little gentle prodding on the stem through the EX port or the valve cover. If that doesn't work, you have to remove the cylinder head and be a little more persuasive with a plastic mallet or the like to gently tap the valve down a few times to get it moving (done with piston at TDC on the compression stroke, to assure the lifter is on the cam base circle, and you are not trying to drive the valve down into a partially raised lifter).

    Be kind and give it an oil change (only takes 6 oz). Given your situation you can put in about anything you feel like for oil . If it was mine I'd put in a multi-weight 40, so it has a fighting chance of getting oil moving everywhere quickly, as we know it's cool in the Red River Valley at this time of the year. So, with the valves free, the compression release activated, and new oil in it you can peddle yourself into a heart attack which will assure everything is well lubricated internally before you try starting it (real easy to peddle them at 1000+ rpm).

    If the coil checks out OK (~ 3000-5000 ohm resistance from primary winding to high tension lead) mount it with an air gap of ~ 0.010" to the flywheel (the spec is 0.012", but closer is better so long as the flywheel doesn't touch it). If you install a module you'd be eliminating both the points and condenser. If you are just trying to fire it up it may be fine with the points that are in it, and again, peddle it to see if you've got good spark.

    Get the dirt out of the carb throat and make sure the carb needle and seat function (float bowl cover removes to reveal all these parts where you can assure that gas flows and gas shuts off - then again, it might start without doing anything to it). My biggest concern would be varnish in the gas tank and carb, which can really gum/plug things up bad. I can almost smell the inside of the tank from here (500 mi away in MN) and it doesn't smell good!

    It's always an exciting time when you've got a new toy that makes noise and you're trying to coax some noise out of it. We all hope you hear some Whizzer thunder this weekend.
  8. Samdallas214

    Samdallas214 Member

    if it was mine I would give it a good cleaning disassemble the carb and clean it real good . And then try to start it , the worse thing that can happen is you have to rebuild the engine.
  9. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Just a quick comment about the ignition module. As a youth in Ohio [1958], I pushed my Whizzer as much as I rode it due to the points. The ignition module is something every Whizzer owner should use. About one in 100 will require reversing the wires on the module. If the spark is weak or missing, reverse the wires. It has something to due with the polarity of the magnets in the flywheel.

    have fun,
  10. Dirt Nerd

    Dirt Nerd Member

    Great looking ride! keep us posted
  11. winnipeg whizzer

    winnipeg whizzer New Member

    hello again to everyone, well to make a long story short i did not try and start it as i noticed a small bit of play on the crank and after further inspection shows that the needle bearing was shot. i did manage to find one so i plan on replacing both bearings and the seal. while i am at i also plan on replacing the rings and lapping the valves. i have ordered some things from memory lane classics including the whizzer service facts, install and op. manuals as well as a few of the other bulletins. now while waiting for these parts to arrive i have attempted to remove the small round cover that is held in place with 3 screws. to get at the seal and roller bearing, after removing the screws i cannot get the cover off:confused:. i have tried gently pry it off and tried a small brass drift punch on the top part of the screw holes to try and spin the cover loose with no luck:poop:. any advice on this or anything else that i may encounter would be greatly appreciated.
    thank you
  12. WZ507

    WZ507 Member

    My 1st H

    The cover you are trying to remove is the bearing carrier for the large ball bearing on the left end of the crank. DO NOT remove this bearing carrier, as there is no need to, and if you do remove it then you have to be concerned about getting it back in square with respect to the cam cover needle bearing. To get at the crank bearing you must remove the crank from the case. Remove the cam cover and connecting rod. With the crank oriented so the counterweights will clear the case as the crank is driven out, support the case in one hand (flywheel side up)and hit the PTO end of the crank with a large brass hammer and the crank will come right out. Be sure you are ready to catch it as it falls out.

    To remove the large ball bearing on the crankshaft do the following. Open a large vise wide enough so that with the PTO side of the crank oriented upward, you can pass the crankpin side of the crankshaft between the vise jaws (PTO end up). You will note that the vise jaws will just touch the edges of the outer race of the large ball bearing and support it (adjust the vise to get as much contact between the vise jaws and the outer bearing race as possible). With the outer race of the bearing supported in this way, hit the PTO end of the crank with a large brass hammer and drive the crank down through the roller bearing. Again, be ready to catch the crank as it falls. Good luck.
    winnipeg whizzer likes this.
  13. winnipeg whizzer

    winnipeg whizzer New Member

    hello again and thank you for that very helpful bit of info. i was under the impression the carrier had to be removed to remove the bearing. i did what you said and the crank and bearing popped right out. i will bring that with me to the guys in the shop and they will replace the bearing as well as hone the cylinder and resurface the valves. so hopefully by the end of next week will try to fire it up. well i am almost finished the bike, i tried to keep it as original as possible but that proved challenging as it was in pretty rough shape. i found it hard deciding what to touch up and what to leave as is. i will post up some pics when i am done, hopefully everything else will go smoothly from here. thanks again to everyone for all your help
    Last edited: May 12, 2013