My first impression of the Grubee SkyHawk GT5A

I am sure the GT80 crank is not any better then the GT5A if as good. I will know more when I get mine take all apart.
Let me know what you find out i went ahead and ordered the gt5a
 
Here is something else I like about the genuine Grubee. This is something you can add to all the clones I did to my first build. Do not pay the high price for one on eBay as you can get them from Grubee dealers. The seal behind the rotor for the crank is very thin and VERY easy to blow out particularly if it is back firing. Had this happen to me. This plate helps hold the seal in keeps it from blowing out.



 
Sorry to say I am not happy when I pulled the cylinder and head! It was just like my eBay motor full of trash and grit! They must of put this together in a sand box!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am unable to get the PTO gear on the right side. I have messed up two pullers and trude some heat I am going to split the cases and try to put the crank out then deal with the gear.

Look at all the dirt in th motor and even the scratches from the piston going up and down a few times this is not good or quality. When I bore or install a cylinder this is why I wash them in HOT SOAPY WATER!

Then there is a place in the cylinder where there are BAD pits and no plating. I am very disappointed ins Gurbee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!





 
I was going to order one of these motors either tomorrow or Wednesday, hopefully they are at least better quality

The are in some ways and no better then the clones in others ways. I sent a email to the seller and a link to this thread. Whe the HELL do they not clean the pats better for assembling???????????????????????????????? I am still like the Gurbee better buy they have a lot of improving they need to do.
 
there is only one original version of these engines, and theyre made in russia. everything else is the clone!

now, theyre ALL made in china. regardless of the advertising hype.

would cost a fair bit more, otherwise.

and might be built slightly better, to boot...

remember the workers only do what they are told. they cant go slow or take their time, because theres the door, bugger off, theres another million (faster) workers ready to fill the vacant position.

that seal retainer is a good idea. shame they dont just widen the cavity a bit more and install a proper double lip seal that aint ever going to explode...
 
The "scratches" (streaks) are not uncommon on many motors before the rings seat in.
No worry there. they are from limited ring contact before seating. You cannot feel them with a fingernail.
If you run the engine too softly during break-in they can become permanent.
I was shocked the first time I saw them in a $1000 Nikasil rebuild with 5 minutes run.
They were gone after 30 minutes run.

The casting/plating pits are not impressive.
I had none in mine, but really, in the long run they will be inconsequential in a $100 engine.
Can you identify what the "trash" is Jeff?
I suspect it might be light break-in oil sediment from an electric motor run up after assembly.

Steve
 
The "scratches" (streaks) are not uncommon on many motors before the rings seat in.
No worry there. they are from limited ring contact before seating. You cannot feel them with a fingernail.
If you run the engine too softly during break-in they can become permanent.
I was shocked the first time I saw them in a $1000 Nikasil rebuild with 5 minutes run.
They were gone after 30 minutes run.

The casting/plating pits are not impressive.
I had none in mine, but really, in the long run they will be inconsequential in a $100 engine.
Can you identify what the "trash" is Jeff?
I suspect it might be light break-in oil sediment from an electric motor run up after assembly.

Steve

When I build a motor there is not any scratching as I clean my cylinders well and do not have this problem. I have seen plenty of cylinder put on an engine and could tell the condition of the cylinder is do to not cleaning well and parts cleaning fluid does not work. When I am working on motors that cost 5k to 10k to build I assure you mine do not look like these! I turn all the motors I built over many times checking things and on my motors I never have these scratches. This is why I clean all the cylinders bore I use a platoe finish and I still clean with hot soapy water like all good mechanics do. After I take a rag and automatic trans oil and wipe them out till there is nothing but oil on the rag.

I am not sure what all the trash is but it sure is gritty and should not be in the engine! If it was break in oil which I really do not think so it sure is the wrong lube to use! No it is just plain nasty as I do not have to put any grit in the motors I build to seat the rings. If you can find a genuine Grubee for just the motor pleas post a link as I looked for hours finding the best price I could find. whid for a whole kt was $144.99. Most are wanting $180 or more for them. Now the clones yes you can get them much cheaper. Thanks Steve for your input.
 
Steve I went out to the shop and wiped some parts off with a clean rag and much of it is shiny like little pieces of metal or shavings. The black stuff fells very gritty.
 
When I build a motor there is not any scratching as I clean my cylinders well and do not have this problem. I have seen plenty of cylinder put on an engine and could tell the condition of the cylinder is do to not cleaning well and parts cleaning fluid does not work. When I am working on motors that cost 5k to 10k to build I assure you mine do not look like these! I turn all the motors I built over many times checking things and on my motors I never have these scratches. This is why I clean all the cylinders bore I use a platoe finish and I still clean with hot soapy water like all good mechanics do. After I take a rag and automatic trans oil and wipe them out till there is nothing but oil on the rag.

I am not sure what all the trash is but it sure is gritty and should not be in the engine! If it was break in oil which I really do not think so it sure is the wrong lube to use! No it is just plain nasty as I do not have to put any grit in the motors I build to seat the rings. If you can find a genuine Grubee for just the motor pleas post a link as I looked for hours finding the best price I could find. whid for a whole kt was $144.99. Most are wanting $180 or more for them. Now the clones yes you can get them much cheaper. Thanks Steve for your input.
I was about to order one of those kits since they are so cheap for better quality
 
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