My New Honda Schwinn Build

Discussion in '4-Stroke Engines' started by Irish John, Aug 5, 2008.

Tags: Add Tags
  1. Irish John

    Irish John Guest

    I'm ready to start my Honda/ Grubee build using a Schwinn Deluxe Seven Cruiser with a Shimano Nexus 7 spd internal hub gears. This will be the new Fosscati FG4 'Indian Pacific' and will replace the old 2008 model 'Indian Pacific' which was a Grubee\HS on a Schwinn Alloy Seven with 7 spd mega-range derailleur gears.
    It all came about because I wanted springer forks on a nice cruiser and the D7 was all I could buy in Australia. Despite the D7 having a MSRP of $549 it ended up costing more than twice the price of the Alloy Seven with a price tag of $820 (Aus & US dollars are almost the same). Was it worth the price? Definitely not! Since then I have found a way to import them into Australia for half that price.
    The whole project has been one interminable problem. The D7 is thinner steel tube than the thicker Alloy7 and it looks a bit flimsy. The rear Shimano Nexus 7 was a nightmare. before I bought the bike I needed to know the dimensions of the hub so I could get a sprocket fabricated. Not even Shimano knew the dimensions of this hub and nobody had one in a shop.
    Eventually I got the measurements and drew up a drawing for the sprocket.
    I wanted a 50T sprocket and getting one of those from Kings Motor Bikes has been a long haul and although I bought some on-line I've not heard from them to confirm the order after more than a week of asking.
    I decided to make up a sprocket from a 48T which I had and I'm hoping the Honda's tiny bit of extra pull will handle that better than the HuaSheng I used before. I've finished the sprocket and clamps and show them in the picture but now I have to make my rubber clamping pads to match the new steel clamps. That shouldn't be too hard if I use even two sheets of stuff to get as close to the chinese ones as I can. The chinese ones have 3 ply of canvas and are 8 or 9mm thick and i can only get 2 ply of 6mm thick rubber but that will probably suffice to hold the sprocket onto the wheel.
    I had a big problem with my Honda when I took the stock stuff off it to adapt it - the engine locked up and it turned out to be caused by a piece of black plastic inside the crank that must have got there somewhere in the assembly line. Strange thing to happen. Then I got the Grubee kit and that has a lot of things wtrong that will need fixing. I have no shaft key and have got 4.5mm lengths of engine key which will need filing down to fit. The clutch keyway is not the same as the shaft keyway due to bad engineering of the clutch and I'll probably file the key and the clutch keyway.
    The 3 piece crank that came with the kit from MBB Imports in Sydney is a joke and those kits have a Euro style BB that won't fit in an American cruiser without an adaptor. The adapter is $60 but it is a beautifully made thing.
    Now I can change the crank to the wide 3 piece but the cranks are very short and this will make the steel Schwinn D7 hard to pedal. I have ordered more 1 piece cranks from and when they come I'll use those and ditch the horrible 3 piece.
    It is not funny that a kit that is made mainly for cruiser bike frames comes with a crankset that can't fit a cruiser BB. It's also expensive because of all the messing around. This will do me but I'll be posting pictures of the build as I go along over the next week. The throttle control for the Honda is a big problem and I'm thinking of a way to solve it without sticking a HS carby on the Honda and solving it the easy way.
    In the long term Andy will probably make me 50T sprockets but his computer is down and he's lost my drawings.
    The steel mudguards are very wide and I'll need to cut them to let the chain pass. The bike is black & white with a fake tank which looks lovely but will have to go to make way for batteries to power the halogen lights.
    The fuel tank will need to be mounted on padding because any stress on those threaded studs have previously caused my tanks to leak at the point where the posts come down from the bottom of the tank. I'm trying to fix my leaking tanks because they have expensive customised paint jobs and I'm hoping that grinding, sanding and cleaning with spirit will enable a soft solder fix to work. That's all for now but here are pics of the hub & sprockets and the Honda motor - it's the motor with the writing on it.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 5, 2008

  2. MasterLink

    MasterLink Member

    nice work man i just got into my springer front end also on my gt dano iam likeing it
    and hate the coaster brakes, but what i wanted to say was i think there is room for you to mount the sprocket to the hub its self in between the spokes area i been seeing this from some sellers on ebay using tandem hubs i have been enjoying your post on this keep up the good work

    i like these guys here the best fast and helpfull
  3. Irish John

    Irish John Guest

    Day 2 on the Fosscati FG4 Indian Pacific

    Masterlink, that won't work. I'm a pernickity chappie & I'm very careful about things like that. Take a look at a Shimano Nexus 7 and you'll see for yourself. The Schwinn tandem has a 7 speed Mega-Range freewheel & derailleur but the tandem hub flanges are 1.35mm too big a dia. for a standard sprocket mount.
    Today I spent some time designing my tank decals for the new 2009 Fosscati FG4 Indian Pacific. I'll get transfers made for the tank and for the frame but I'll leave the Honda showing cos it's not Chinese. I've taken the Made in China sticker off the Schwinn and will try and make one saying 'Hand forged in Belfast by Harland & Woolf
    I went down to a town called Ballina to get good replacement for as much of the Chinese stuff as possible. The new owner of the hardware place is useless and it was a wasted trip except his shop is now off-limits. Got a steel fabricator down there who reckons he can make better tanks than the ones in the kits so that's positive. Also got rubber for my customised sprocket clamp (see picture). The clamps are great and they fit perfectly just behind where the spokes cross. I drew the fabrication plan at full scale and just drilled through my drawings. The drawings were done before I had even seen the Schwinn bike. Bike shops here don't have Schwinns in stock - they order them when someone buys one.
    I have the Schwinn D7 bike in the workshop now and my engine fits Ok in the frame. The picture shows a mock-up with nothing fixed in place. I use my own bolts for the tray and the ones that screw into the aluminium blocks have to have nuts on the end - that's a must cos they come loose and\or strip the soft aluminium threads. actually they do both of those things. Has anyone tried getting locknuts in those inaccessible places? It's very hard and takes ages to get them in but I'm getting good at it now and it took 2 hours and not 7 hours like last time. Then I use my own bolts to go up from below to hold the motor and 2 of those are always very hard cos 2 will always be in a really tight space. Haven't done that yet this time but I did it OK on last build.
    I rode the bike for a while when I got it home with no motor and I've replaced the 24T chain ring with a 36T one so the 7 spd hub is much harder to pedal. This is great when the motor is running cos you can pedal & keep pace with the engine at full speed but I'd hate to pedal the bike uphill with no motor.
    The rear coaster brake is such a mongrel of a thing and I really hate them. Haven't used one since 1958 in Canada when I was a kid. All Canadian kids bikes had them back then cos they reckon kids legs are stronger than their arms and this might help them to stop quickly. I hated them then and I hate them with 50 years of added vehemence now. If the D7 had only had bosses for V-brakes on the rear seat stays, like many bikes do have even if they are fitted with discs, I'd have ditched the whole rear wheel and used a Sturmey archer 3 spd hub and saved a lot of money.
    The bike is steel and is much heavier than the Schwinn Alloy Seven I'm used to. Also the tubes are much smaller diameter so it looks lighter than the alloy Schwinns but it isn't. It's a heavy beast - a Harley almost and the Alloy 7 is like a 600 Ducati. I reckon the D7 is 60% heavier than the Alloy7 but it has one great thing - nice springer forks with proper front V-brakes and I've done enough miles now to know that front suspension is important if you want those 6mm engine tray studs to hold the engine on. I use my own Aussie steel studs but M6 is just too thin. They need M8 studs to really stand the strain.
    Any extra power from the Honda will be more than cancelled by the extra weight factor. Got a Japanese 415 chain which is much better than the stock kit ones. It takes just over one chain on the D7.
    Now I am waiting for feedback from the Forum as to whether I can dispense with one of the steel sprocket clamping brackets and just use the sprocket itself as the outside clamp and get by with using just one bracket on the inside of the hub to tighten the nuts against. Then I can use the other steel clamp on the next D7 with 7 spd Nexus hub. They were so hard to make and expensive as well. I only went to all this trouble to save the Shimano hub which is worth $400. In hindsight I was probably not thinking straight.
    Oh yes, the mud guards are steel and weigh a ton. They are as fat as the Felt MP and I will have to cut a big section out of the rear one to allow the chain to pass freely. I think the mudguards are attractively ugly rather than beautiful and the same with the fender front light which is streamlined like the light on the old Indian Pacific. For those who don't know The Indian Pacific is one of the worlds epic trains that runs from Sydney to Perth - a distance equivalent from Washington to San Francisco; but over the Nullarbor desert she runs for several hundred miles dead straight - the longest stretch of straight railtrack in the world. I love trains and I've named my bike after this one. Well I'll be building more tomorrow but the only thing that worries me is how to rig up a throttle control for the Honda. I'm not sure how to do that and it scares me. I've read the thread here on it but don't understand all the struts & springs. Time to hit the hay. Goodnight Good Bikers.
    The Indian Pacific is steaming down the corridor to bed.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 8, 2008
  4. jimraysr

    jimraysr Member

    John, the bike looks like my old Schwinn Black Phantom from 1950+ /- Of course it had a tank wt. a horn in it and a tail light wt. a brake light, but the frame gave me a start. I loved it. I could ride all the way to school on my J C Higgins bike and never touch the handle bars. Not so with the Schwinn, top heavy. Of course they didn't have springer forks then, it had the Schwinn "Knee Action" front fork. Think dad paid $115 US for it. Lots of money in the 50's

    Regarding the outside bracket. I thought the same thing. It doesn't seem to really serve a purpose except to space the sprocket out. My chain slaps the wheel strut some times and removing the bracket would allow me to move the engine towards center. As you know that would be a problem for me as my mounting holes are fixed on the bracket that I am using for the Schwinn Searcher. As I have the space to the struts, I turned the bolts around wt. the washers / lock washers and nuts on the outside. Took me an hour to put it together the first time and the sprocket was bent. Decided right then to turn the bolts around. Now it is much easier to torque the bolts to get the sprocket to run true. Think I need to look to getting some rubber to make new spoke mounts. The China ones are made from used tires it looks to me? Did you get rubber wt. cord reinforcement? I guess if your got rubber sheet wt. the proper durometer (hardness) they would be stable? Jim

    Must look up AU time zone. Must be a day and around 12 hours later than AZ non DST? (Same as CA right now)
  5. MasterLink

    MasterLink Member

    the eng.plate i redriled and used helie coils ..thats steal inserts then used steal 1/4 ..with a 5/16 bolt head size not sure you have seen them before works realy good did the same for the front of the plate.and back well then i put a peice of 2x4 under the plate sits on top the bb follows the seat post ohh and for the honda issue i didnt understand that linkage setup on here as well ..i do now ..but for me i went and put the hasunber carb on works well and for $25 new mailed to me it was money well spent and i didnt have to worrie about it no more !!!! and then i took all the gonvener stuff off and the arm as well i run my honda wide open.and took the stock muffler box off as well.. and that heat sheild off ..these engs.are made to run inside something i think the air from the out side cools it fine ..yea and as for the fenders / i cut a notch out as well i did it 3 times lol i think i have about 2 inchs both sides of the chain and then that tab that holds the fender up broke so i made a better one and my hubs just came in the mail so im off to see on geting them laced and then iam geting the boss brazed on the frame for my v brakes

    and jim good ideal about the bolts and liked the history
  6. jimraysr

    jimraysr Member

    Heli Coils are the thing for aluminum. I have a car outside that has a NorthStar V8 in it. It has be down twice for an oil leak and a oil galley replacement. The crank bolts can only be torqued twice. Original assembly and then one field tear down. The second time they had to drill all the crank holes and Heli Coll them. They are a great fix or preventive technique.

  7. Irish John

    Irish John Guest

    The rubber clamps are 2 ply canvas inside 6mm thick rubber. Available from clarkes Rubber in Australia. The Chinese stuff is 3 ply canvas in 7mm rubber but it's probably not as good as what I've got. 7mm is better but they don't have it. It's not expensive and get it cut in the shop cos it's a neater job than stanley knifing it at home. Get a few cut so you can use 2 if you need it thicker or buy a couple of pieces of 2mm rubber to use for extra thickening if you need it. I can't see anyone else needing to know this cos as far as I know nobody else has a frame-mounted D7. The standard clamps are as cheap as chips so I'd just buy them normally. This clamp is a pain and not for the feint hearted. Much cheaper for someone in the US to buy the Felt Heritage and not have this problem.
    Today I mounted the sprocket and designed the decals in Adobe Illustrator. I won't have to paint the tank which is a bonus. Still trying not to think about the throttle or the line of the chain which might well be too close to the tyre and then I have to install another sheet of rubber clamp or another steel clamp to get the sprocket out a bit but then it interferes with the annoying coaster brake arm. If I lived in the US none of this would be necessary cos the choice of bikes would allow me to have springers on a lot of good frames. Not so in Aus where springers do not come on many good cruisers and the prices are 180 - 250% higher because of the fat cat sole distributorships. Don't think I'll work on the bike tonight cos I want to watch the Beijing Olympics opening ceremoney. That stadium was made from recycled HT motors and I suspect it will collapse under the weight of the throng.
    Well, I'm back now. I got bored with sport - from the TV you'd think the only athletes in the contest were Australian. Stuff that! Just noticed that the thin steel downtube of the Schwinn is too small and the engine tray front mount won't be able to tighten around it. I'll try inserting some of my left over 7mm thick rubber and see if I can get the front tube mounting bracket to grip it under pressure. There's also a gear cable running down the front of that tube so that's a slight problem as well. Stuff the bike I'm going back to sport.
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 8, 2008
  8. Unhappy Time

    Unhappy Time New Member

    wow is all I can say!
  9. Irish John

    Irish John Guest

    Why helicoil when you can put a locknut on the end of it and tighten that instead. Don't helicoil unless you can go another size up from M6 to M8 cos it will snap if it's an M6 stud holding a motor tray on. If you haven't room to go up a size helicoils aren't that great. We are talking only 4 strokes here on this thread.
  10. jimraysr

    jimraysr Member

    Lock nuts??

    John, not sure where you mean to put lock nuts? The tapped holes in the aluminum slide end mounts of course are not drilled through as they come out flat against the steel tray.

    I drilled through when I put in the wider spaced bolt holes as I don't have any bottom taps. I used lock washers and washers under the bolt head against the clamp portion of the 2" exhaust pipe clamp . Would have loved to have something else that the aluminum block to hold the grade 8 bolt.

    BTW, My NorthStar is a four stroke. 8O) =

  11. Irish John

    Irish John Guest

    Yeah Jim, I meant the side bolts that hold the engine mounting tray on. They need nylock nuts on the end but there's seldom room for a washer cos the hole is too close to the roof of the aluminium. The 4 studs could be redrilled to go through and have either nuts on the end or you can retap the existing to 8mm but I have been using 6mm Aussie 12.9 hardness steel studs with loctite threadlock. I notice the beijing stadium stayed upright last night thanks to our good grade iron ore.
  12. Irish John

    Irish John Guest

    Day 4 on the Fosscati FG4 Indian Pacific

    Today I tried to do a bit more on my new build. I had taken the Shimano Nexus 7 hub off to mount the rear sprocket and that all went OK except putting the gear hub and wheel back on is not easy. There's a little casette joint fixing ring that is nearly impossible to get to click back in place so I could remount the wheel. A seach of the web told me that it was a well known impossible task peculiar only to Shimano nexus gear hubs.

    I spent some time trying to mend 2 leaking petrol tanks by soldering. One is successful (but for how long?) and the other still leaks at one of the rear threaded posts. I still have a little old HT tank from 2004 that is good because it was made before the deliberate quality fade got so bad. The only kit parts I'm using in this build is a tank, a mounting tray which will have to be seriously adapted, two cables, the hand grips but not kill switch, and 2 levers.
    I broke 3 more brand new pet cocks today and 2 were by hand tightening only. That brings the total number of broken pet cocks to 8 and in case any sinophile apologist want to tell me that I'm expecting too much just take look at the photos below and look at the crystaline nature of the alloy or steel and you can see it's just abject junk.
    I'll have to get some Japanese ones from the trail bike shop but don't know if they will fit.
    I'm having problems with the Grubee engine tray. The steel tubing on the Schwinn is too small for the clamp brackets to be tightened onto the 6mm studs and I will try mounting some 6mm thick 2 ply rubber (which I have left over from the rubber sprocket clamps I made last week) between the aluminium tray blocks and the tube and using that to tighten the mild steel brackets to. The studs are 12.9 very high tensile steel but they are only 6mm and if I tighten too hard it puts serious stress on the studs and they will fracture under engine load and vibration or worse strip straight out of the aluminium threads. I'm beginning to think I need to design my own Grubee tray correcting all the Grubee stuff-ups and get it fabricated in bulk.
    It would not have any threaded aluminium needless to say.
    I seriously believe that unless the components in these kits improves the only thing I'll be buying in future is the HS motor. The rest of the kit has very little value and I find it sad that the 4-stroke kit has to replicate the HT poor quality when it's selling point was reliability over the 2-strokes.
    Anyway I've still got a way to go and it seems to be problems all the way. The throttle problem with the Honda motor worries me and I might try and use an HS carb but the recent Aussie Grubee kit came with an HS engine that has the usual spring loaded throttle but has a cable controlled choke. That's not quality fade that's a deliberate attempt by someone to sabotage my peace of mind. Imagine what was going on in the brain that thought that an extra lever on the handlebars would be just the ticket. All they had to do was just rip off the Honda like they were doing but oh no, we must make the motor 25mm higher with an extra steel plate and a cable throttle so it won't fit in any bicycle ever made anywhere!
    Not a great day today on the bicycle front. I'll go and watch the Olympics and wait for something to go wrong.

    Attached Files:

  13. jimraysr

    jimraysr Member

    Leaking tanks

    John, My 1970s Yamaha trail bike tank rusted out from 22 years of storage. I have not repaired it, but do know of a method it can be done.

    Sears carried an epoxy kit for both cars and motorcycles a few years ago. Not sure they still do, but guessing somebody does.

    Getting rid of the internal rust (guessing that isn't you problem) is a problem in repaining old tanks. Read about one fellow that put pea gravel in the tank and shook it till it loosed all the old rust. Then there was a cleaner in the kit and finally epoxy that sealed all the leaks. Seems like it would be a good preventive for a new tank as we know they are not galvanized and some have complained of rust in a new tank. We have 30 to 40 degree F (17 -22 degrees C) temperature swings. So condensation corrosion is a problem even though we only get 7 inches of rain a year. I need to consider treating my tank as well as making sure I keep fuel stabilizer in the tank as well. The major thing with new gas is make sure I run the carb dry when ever the engine won't be run for a few days.

    A Honda mechanic I know claims that modern gas will go stale in less than 30 days? I keep Stable in my 5 gallon safety cans and in the motor home tank. Problems, problems, always a new one. 8O) =

  14. Irish John

    Irish John Guest

    Day 5 on the Indian Pacific

    Day % was not great on my bike build cos it was cold in the workshop. I'm still playing around with getting the engine mounts just right and have inserted hard 6mm rubber pad between the engine tray and the front tube and a doubled over inner tube from a truck at the back. That gives the mounting brackets some purchase that they otherwise wouldn't have had cos the frame tubes are so skinny.
    Looking at the Schwinn D7 Cruiser rear rack with it's pointed tail end I see that there isn't a rear light I have ever seen that would fit this beastof a rack. has anyone encountered a pointed end on a rear rack with a bolt hole about 2" in from the point?
    I've also discovered that the curved top tube on the Schwinn cruisers put a lot of uneven pressure on the tank and that might be why they keep springing leaks from the threaded post under the tank. I will be packing out the top tube to get a more level tank mounting position so the tank is supported along its full length. I'll use more of the rubber pads but if I go too high the posts won't reach down far enough to get the fixing brackets on.
    My leaking tank fixing idea using soft solder hasn't worked well and I am back to where I started. I wish there were still blacksmiths about who could fix this.
    Am now trying to file down an engine key to fit the motor & clutch. This build is too hard and I'm begining to regret starting it. I might have over-reached myself again.
    Can anyone tell me the exact key width of the Honda shaft? Is it 3/16" or 5/16"?
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 11, 2008
  15. MasterLink

    MasterLink Member

    i have never had my tank or tanks leak there ,,my thoughts are you could be over tighting the tank they dont need to be to tight if it moves around a bit
    i just make it a bit tighter i use some rubber stuff that gos around airconditioners copper tubbing and set it on the top tube of the bike
    and the petcock is junk and it doesn't let gas out very fast iam goin to get the barb again for may new build from the hardware store

    and the key i just filed mine on a slight angle
    and then used a hammer ontill i could get the bolt on flush mine has a tapper on it now that was the clutch key iam talking about i can see my key hanging out and the bolt that holds the clutch together needs to set flush ....the key i filed on a angle god only know what size it is...
    but it only gos in one way and even with the key installed the clutch didn't seem to work the way i thought ...but it works fine some kinda magic goin on in there hahaha i hope it clears my post up i had a call and pushed post and forgot to check my post
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2008
  16. Irish John

    Irish John Guest

    Thanks MasterLink, I only tighten the tanks enough to stop it moving around. Can you explain the bit about your engine key a bit better. You filedit, tapped it with a hammer - tapped it in or tapped it until it tapered? I don't understand the bit about the bolt on flush. The bolt goes in the end of the shaft to hold the gear and cltch bell on. Isn't that what you mean?
    Do you know the exact keyway size? 3/16 or 5/16"? Or what?
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 11, 2008
  17. jimraysr

    jimraysr Member

    John, I will just post a little as I have a meeting shortly.

    First, take three deep breaths and let them out slowly.

    Being a Irishman myself I was born with more than my share of frustration and perfectionism. I do have around 30 years on you and 26 without drinking so have wound down quite a bit. 8O) =

    I have four clutches, two with the proper keyway and two with the narrow one.

    I have the measurements in 1/1000" and 100/ cm, but that isn't needed here.

    The clutsh key slot should be 4.6mm or .18"

    The narrow clutch slots are 4.3mm or .16'

    The key that fits the Honda shaft and the bell bushing is 4.5mm or .18"

    The bell housing bushing has a 4.5mm or .17" width.

    My cheap ($6 US) Harbor Freight Carbon Fiber Digital caliper gave the above figures.

    I have a more precise set of figures from a Stainless digital caliper, but they only confirm the general truth of the above.

    From looking at your work, I think of you as a master builder. I wasn't looking for the show piece that you produce, but it did take me four months to get it together. Final shock came Saturday when I took the bike off the hoist for the first time. I had tested it etc., but had not put the OEM kickstand down with the engine mounted. DA, top heavy. Now I have to get a center stand for the Schwinn. ) Always something else.

    Have decided to maybe do a little side business on 4 stroke kits. Seem like I need to share my experience with others who want to join the clan.

    Last edited: Aug 11, 2008
  18. Gary P

    Gary P New Member

    Dad bought my black phantom in 51 or 52, I think. Price was $84.95 from a local furniture store (how about that?) Jared Bros. Furniture on Commercial Street. Dad made $54.00 a week then. By using the bike to ride to school and throwing papers from it, I paid him back in non use bus fare in two years.

    Gary P.
    Springfield Mo.

  19. Irish John

    Irish John Guest

    Day 7 on The Fosscati FG4 Indian Pacific

    Well today started off well and I rode into town dressed as a pirate for no reason other than I felt like dressing up. I got some bits and pieces for the bike build and came home to continue working on it. Last night I solved the Honda motor throttle problem the easiest way by using a carburettor from an HS/Hoot kit so I don't have to mess about with springs & struts. I cut a length of 3\16" engine key and began filing it to fit 3 different keyway widths.
    Yes folks that is the state of this latest Grubee kit - one width for the Honda shaft, one for the clutch and one for the clutch bell flange. All were different widths and it took some time to make a key that fitted all three so they were a tight fit but could be slid on by hand. Don't want to have to use 3 jawed gear pullers next time I take it apart and although it galls me to have to do the precision work that should have been done in the factory in China it is essential to get it right.
    I got the whole motor assembled and ready to go on the mounting tray. The tray was remade yesterday using proper steel bolts with nuts on the end and the studs were replaced with Aussie steel ones I cut & threaded myself. Mounting the motor on the tray took ages cos I use longer bolts than the kit ones and 2 of the bolts are hidden inside the mounting tray and took 3 hours to get on. At last I succeeded and all four bolts are loctited into the motor so the only way it will fall off is if the mounting studs snap or these 8.8 hardness bolts holding the engine to the tray sheer.
    The tray doesn't like the Schwinn D7 cos the steel tubes are very thin and they wouldn't allow me to tighten them so they gripped the tube. I fixed this by using some of the 6mm thick rubber that I made the special rear sprocket clamp from - see pictures.
    I'm a bit worried about this because although the rubber protects the tubes from scratching and maybe acts as a vibration softener, I have always been of the view that the motor mounts shouldn't be cushioned because that usually exaccurbates vibration. I've tried pulling the motor sideways to see if there is any movement at all but the rubber is compressed so hard the motor seems totally rigid to the frame. I reckon the compressed rubber will put extra force on the studs and I'll use double niuts on all studs but who's to say the studs won't pull out of Don Grube's silly aluminium threads on the tray slider. These trays would be much better if Don Grube was forced to do a product recall on all his trays ever sold and forced to eliminate all steel threads into aluminium blocks. His tray was a good idea poorly executed and the design was not resolved far enough.
    I've got the exhaust to fit nicely tucked under the tray yet avoiding hitting the tray mounting studs which can be a problem.
    All that remains is to cut a huge amount off the incredibly wide but lovely rear steel mudguard so the chain can pass freely. I reckon I'll just hacksaw it cos I don't think tin snips would cut this steel cleanly. That is a big job taking the mudguard off. Taking the rear wheel off is a nightmare because the Nexus 7 spd rear hub has very tricky plastic cassete joint caps that are nearly impossible to clip back on if the wheel is removed. Then the gears have to be reset which is hard to do on a Nexus 7.
    The rear rack has a streamlined pointy end that no rear light ever made will ever fit so I'll make a bracket to take a rear light. Has anyone noticed that most rear lights these days only have a mounting bracket that goes around a seat post? The seat post is not a good place for a light because it can be obstucted by clothing & luggage etc. I need to find one that bolts onto a flat piece of steel and I'll make a flat steel bracket to fit the rear rack.
    My front V-brakes make a creaking noise that is deafening and I'll have to look at what is causing that. It's hard to keep the revo twister gears with the throttle cos the throttle takes so much room and then there's the front brake lever before the revo twister. I change gear by crossing my left hand over to the right side cos my right hand can't reach from the throttle to the gear change without letting the throttle go slack.
    Here are some pics - I'm on the home run after nearly 3 months of agonising chasing around to resolve things but the best news I've had for ages is that I've found a way to get my perfect 4-stroke host bikes without paying the rip-off prices that our sole dealerships demand. The fat cat importers would go for me to protect their monopoly if I revealed mt plan but I feel good to know that at last I can get the bikes I want at a price that is reasonable.
    Incidentally the only Chinese thing I am still stuck with is the fuel tanks but I think I might have a way of getting good ones of those too - if not made in Australia then maybe I could use the tanks from the Honda Z50 kids motorbikes. I think they might fit on a bicycle with a little modification and 2 thick rubber straps. I don't expect the kits to improve. I think they'll get noticeably worse and I want to have somewhere to go so I'm not compelled to use any of that crud. There's a market for a good kit at a higher price and this Grubee kit I've used came from Sydney and has cost more to assemble to a decent standard than a Staton NuVinci. This experience is proof that a badly made kit isn't cheap even if they give it away!
    I've finally got some 1 piece cranks from the USA and I'll take the riculous 3 piece off very soon. You can see how terribly ugly it looks and those foul pedals I had to buy for it. The shop will take the pedals back.
    I'm having special decals screen printed for this bike - it's cheaper to have white than to use 2 colours so I've sent the designs off to the printers. White ones aren't cheap but colour is seriously expensive.
    The Fosscati FG4 'Indian Pacific' is scheduled to take her inaugural run at dawn this Sunday on the Tyagarah Salt Flats in far northern NSW and I'm hoping she lives up to my expectations.
    For anyone thinking of motorising a Schwinn D7 with a Grubee\Honda the advice is Don't do it unless you are mad or want to go mad like me!
    You too could end up dressing as a pirate and walking around town at 9 o'clock in the morning!

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 14, 2008
  20. jimraysr

    jimraysr Member

    GruBee gear / Honda motor / Tail Light

    John, ny Schwinn had a rear reflector on the seat post and the 4 LED tail light I bought also was a seat post mount.

    I made a post from PVC 3/4" ( approx. 25 mm OD) pipe and a cap. Painted it black and drilled the seat post rack and champhred (sp) it to use a flush self threading outdoor screw, 3 2/2" (88 cm) long. Used a grinder to cut off the point and back far enough to just stick through the cap. So now both set under the end of the rack.

    I am going to change the seat post rack to a brake bolt mount. I added a spring mount seat post and cannot afford the extra space that the rack needs.

    Shure don't like the wide spindle three piece crank set I see in your shots.. Mine now has the cranks that are equal to the OEM ones and have a offset in them, but gives around 9 1/2" (241 cm) clearance for the Honda engine.

    My tray sets a little above the crank circle.

    Did not see one 2' (51CM) lower brackket when I was shopping. Guess AU is still getting standard 2' (51cm) lower brackets. Mine and others here are 1 1/2" (37cn).

    Need to get a double kick stand to hold the bike upright. The OEM one would let the bike lean over and fall.

    Addind wide view mirrors to the handle bar. Had them on an old electric scooter we used when camping. One thing I don't have to buy.

    I drilled through the both the aluminum block with the floor stand drill press and the steel tray for the engine mount. I can dismount the engine without having to move the tray. Hope I never have to do that.

    Last edited: Aug 14, 2008