My new Tuned Pipe!

[Easy Rider]

Egor, I know what you mean about the stock silencer but I did cut the exiting tube down to 3". I did try it without the silencer and it was a little faster but I rather keep it quiet. The silencer is removable. With the reed cage (which just bejun production) you only need to do a little port work to the intake on the cylinder.
Coming soon, (in the R&D stage) is a billet head with higher compression.

As for the boost bottles, I've never had much sucess with them. I've tried them on my race scooters and karts. Have you figured out the right dimensions? If you did I'm willing to give it another try.
Nothing wrong with a little bit more reliable power!

 

[mnbiker]

That pipe look great. any way to get top end.

 

[Egor]

OK I am going to follow this thread. For the reed induction, you will need to slot the piston for it to do anything. We just removed a reed induction from a CR250 Honda the owner was not impressed with the performance, (IE, none) he would not put the slots in the piston, could not understand what we meant. Let me know if you need any help, sense you are doing R&D, I will do the porting for you for free, let me know. If you do I will have you send it to to the shop. I understand the noise thing, but you should be able to get a muffler to keep that pipe quiet with the correct length, that is how you tune a pipe. I have seen them on the pocket bikes. The boost bottle is a controversy, Google Yamaha boost bottle,or on here I put some stuff a while ago. It needs to be close to the intake, no long hose. I don't think it is wise to spin one of the Happy motors up much, but it would be nice to have the extra torque, and that is what a reed induction does. Also intake would wash over the gudgeon pin. Have fun, Dave
PS: This is a kit out there could be made to fit!

Egor, I know what you mean about the stock silencer but I did cut the exiting tube down to 3". I did try it without the silencer and it was a little faster but I rather keep it quiet. The silencer is removable. With the reed cage (which just bejun production) you only need to do a little port work to the intake on the cylinder.
Coming soon, (in the R&D stage) is a billet head with higher compression.

As for the boost bottles, I've never had much sucess with them. I've tried them on my race scooters and karts. Have you figured out the right dimensions? If you did I'm willing to give it another try.
Nothing wrong with a little bit more reliable power!

 

[andyinchville1]

HI mbiker,

Probably best to have a pipe designed for low to mid range power because engine life would be drastically reduced if one had to use it at the top end all the time (low to mid is the most used RPM range anyways).

For more speed, given the increased mid range power you could always gear up a bit (smaller rear sprocket).....Here in hilly VA , I run a 36 on my bike with my own tuned pipe and have enough power to make me want to gear higher....I may go to a 32T before too long.....

Hope this helps

Andrew

 

[andyinchville1]

Wow...That would be a NICE intake system for the Happy Time!

Andrew

 

[Easy Rider]

That pipe look great. any way to get top end.

I think these motors weren't meant to be high reving machines. Like Andy mentioned earlier, It's best to buy a smaller rear sprocket. I've seen the quality of his sprockets and I definitely will be buying a 47 and 36 tooth soon.

 

[Easy Rider]

For the reed induction, you will need to slot the piston for it to do anything.

I thought slotting the piston was for when you add a boost port? I know on the (polini, BZM and ZPF) motors we worked on, that's what we did.
I could be speaking of something completely different. Do you have any pictures of a slotted piston?
Thanks,
Ken

 

[Egor]

Ken, I will have to see if I can find a pic, it has been a long time sense I have done one. The reason you have to slot the piston skirt is because it is a piston port timed engine. Normally the piston skirt is the valve, but it is open also at the wrong time after TDC, so some of the time it would be compressing the air mix under the piston it is pushing it out the carb again till the skirt covers the port. the advantage of a reed system is, it is positive closing, all the air is pushed into the Cylinder. If you look at the engines you are thinking about they are crankcase inducted. So to get the piston out of the way on ours you introduce slots so you can look into the crankcase through the skirt, that way you get all the advantages of the reed, (with nothing in the way). You can never use the piston again as a port timed engine, but you don't care. So now you can see how a reed would work best for low end, they will idle flawlessly. And yes that is how you add boost ports also, 5th and 6th ports in a Yamaha. I have an old barrel and piston maybe I can find the time to port it for a reed and send the notes and pic to you. Ill keep you posted, you are on the right track, and you already have the idea. Ill show you also a trick for a boost ports, but you can only do it with the reed system.. Have fun, Dave

I thought slotting the piston was for when you add a boost port? I know on the (polini, BZM and ZPF) motors we worked on, that's what we did.
I could be speaking of something completely different. Do you have any pictures of a slotted piston?
Thanks,
Ken

 

[Easy Rider]

Thanks Dave, Now I know what you're talking about. I'm still learning a lot about these motors. I've got to inspect the piston and match it up to the intake. Thanks again for all your awesome advice.

 

[w31john]

do you need a pipe?
pick one!!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/w31john/bikes/DCF006.jpg