i first done the usual mod by cutting the stock exhaust down but it did not seem to gain any power and the noise level went through the roof.
the engine feels strangled on the stock pipe. i bought an exhaust for a super moto race bike and cut it to death. and done some mig welding.
got the shape i needed to clear the pedals, brake disc and crank. the diffrence in torque alone is unbelieveable. its running a 34 tooth sprocket and i can drop the clutch at aprox 4 mph. just need a better carb as i have mine on the richest setting and its not getting enough fuel at top end. but i am still running a 25/1 mix. i have ordered a booster bottle and new carb with high and low mixture setting.
i just need to use black insulation tape, the blue looks rather (hey look at my repair).
yes thats the cateye battery strapped up at the top of the frame. i did have h.i.d cateye stadium light but it the knock after very little use.£300 down the pan and they can not repair it for me.
i have posted some more pics for you.
yes sorry the noise level is a lot lower aswell which is ideal when ridding past the cops.
the police are not to bad here in liverpool uk but if i were a younger person making a nusance of myself well then i would have a problem. i did get stopped today for over taking a car at 40 mph but they just laughed and told me to calm down a bit and buy a helmet.
Yes sir, please do detail the mounts used with clear snaps of your work. A cookie for the effort.
philcred, I do realize that the Marin's down tube is not round, so a perfect fit would be hard to gain. Take what I have posted below for what it's worth. I like your ride very much. In about two weeks my Specialized hardtail will be posted here and I doubt it will present itself as well as Marin.
I was going to note this elsewhere but will offer it now.
As an old mechanic I do know a thing or two about re-engineering.
If I ever use one of these Chinese engines(i just might at sometime) the mounts will fit the frame exactly. This will be done by using brass shim stock cut to size(brass is easy to cut and wear resistant). Upon second fitting, the shims will have a light layer of silicone adhesive applied, as well as to the aluminum of the crankcase and frame member. Then all would be tightened and the engine not started for 24 hours, to permit a cure. Excess can be cleaned off after the cure. Shim stock can be had by the packet that contains many thicknesses. All studs are up-graded because the stock one will/do break.
The clamps? I would use the best automotive exhaust clamp I could find of this type. I am suprised that I have not seen these used here already. Maybe someone has used them but not to my knowledge.
Only ONE thick washer would be used between the clamp and nut...I hate seeing stacks of washers. *sigh* Nuts would be Loctighted.
The threaded bit is not used..only the folded metal bob part. Bits & bobs.
yes, the marin frame has a odd shape to it. if i used the flat bar and drilled the frame the engine would have sat aprox 2 inches higher and the air filter would not fit. i had no choice but to file the front engine mount to the shape of the frame this keeps the engine low and helps my Corning speeds lol.......