My Schwinn Jaguar Upgrade's

Discussion in 'Photos & Bicycle Builds' started by crackers, Nov 27, 2009.

  1. crackers

    crackers Member

    I made a new solid front motor mount/torque strap to replace orginal mount that required a hole drilled through my frame. Didn't use the stock kill switch that came with the kit. Instead I installed a toggle switch in my head light's case. Added a new super bright flashing tail light. Got rid of the stock chain tenisoner and went with a design I found on a thread here. I also installed a new adjustable aluminum kick stand. First picture is a before any upgrades. Hope you like it

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    Last edited: Nov 27, 2009

  2. MotoMagz

    MotoMagz Member

    Bike looks nice and clean.See ya found some nice blue paint to match.You could always paint that rear tank I'm selling blue! (just messin with ya)

  3. oliver bros garage

    oliver bros garage New Member

    Nice, I like that mount!
  4. crackers

    crackers Member

    Thanks guy's
    I think the paint is about as close to a perfect match as you can get for the stock Schwinn Jaguar Blue, thanks to skjjoe. The paint is Duplicolor Ford Royal Blue #34. Still thinking about your rack and tank MotoMagz thats why my tank isn't painted yet.
    The upper part of the L bracket portion of my motor mount that is attached to the motor by two studs(replacing two of the case screws) works as a torque strap, keeping the motor from wanting to lean to its left when power is applied and reducing the stress on the other mounting studs.
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2009
  5. fow-aire

    fow-aire New Member

    sic work hope she purs !
  6. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    cool mount !!!
    nice idea :):):)
    good job on the color match as well ;)
  7. Catfishjohn

    Catfishjohn New Member

    What kind of chain tensioner did you use?
  8. crackers

    crackers Member

    Sorry I didn't have any good pictures of the tensioner handy at the time of this posting. I found directions on how to make it some place on this site I think, maybe another not sure. It's pretty easy to make and works great, and no worry of tensioner going into your spokes, it can't happen! It's made from a piece of 1/4" aluminum 4 electrical clamps with bolts nuts and lock washer's of course. I bought all the stuff at Home Depo for under 10 bucks and there was plenty aluminum left over to make three more. Just drill your 4 holes to mount it and drill about five holes a little larger than your stock tensioner's bolt for the adjusting slot and use a Ratail file to finnish your slot, you may want to round off the corners so there's no sharp edges, I did. Or better yet find the post I was talking about if you can, as he explan's it better than I can. Click on the pic's with your mouse for a larger view

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  9. chopperjoe

    chopperjoe New Member

    Man i need a welder, nice job. I also have the bolt through setup, and would live to do the same. Great info
  10. chopperjoe

    chopperjoe New Member

    are those tires cyclepro brand? Look like ones i just installed, about $12 each, from amazon. Would like your opinion, havnt had a test ride yet, 10 degrees today

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  11. crackers

    crackers Member

    Chopperjoe, my tires are Duro brand. I found a guy at a local swap meet that sells bicycle parts (he's there every week) he had a whole lot of them brand new 6 bucks ea. and the tubes for 1.99. Great looking bike you have built there, whats the shifter on your top tube control? I don't have a welder either. I bought a 3' length of #5 all rod and replaced all the mounting studs on the engine and replaced two of the case screws with studs made from the all rod ware my L bracket mounts to the engine. For the bracket it self I bought some 1''1/4 X 1/8'' flat stock from Home Depo and bent it in to a L bracket in my vice, then marked where I wanted the holes ( if your off a little you can use a rat tail file to make them fit). Next I cut a 1'' length of tubing off an old chain stay I had from a parts bike and took both piece's to a local auto repair shop that did welding and explained to them what I was trying to do. They welded up my bracket (the tube to the L bracket) which I took home and mounted to my engine. Then I mounted the engine to the seat tube loosley and lowered it untill the tube on my bracket rested on my bikes down tube. I then alined the 10 tooth sprocket on the engine to the 44 tooth sprocket on the rear wheel, measured the clearence between the exhaust pipe and the bikes down tube with a feeler gage. Next I pulled the engine back out of the bike and stripped the bike down to just the frame, this will make the job a lot easer for the guy doing the welding and easer to transport. Then take your bike frame and the engine with the bracket already attached to the welding shop. Set the engine back in the bike the same way and measure your clearance with the feeler gage and then they can weld the bracket to your bike. By having everything stripped and ready for the welder ( making it as easy as possible for them) they shouldn't charge you to much. My cost was only 20 bucks and that included welding up the holes from the bolt that went through the frame. It was a lot of work but well worth it!

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    Last edited: Jan 5, 2010
  12. crackers

    crackers Member

    I like your springer too did you add that, if so whats it off? I have snow here too, to slippery for me and my V brakes don't work hardly at all when there wet. Are you saying you haven't rode your bike since you installed the engine or just since the new wide white walls? Looks like a fun ride, be safe an remember shinny side up!
  13. cosworth

    cosworth Member

    Looks like we might be on the same page looks wise. rsz_1rsz_beach_scene_2.jpg