CVT NE-R ,CVT belt size ?

Good morning Ray, love the pictures of your NE-R. I'll post some of mine first chance. Thanks for the link to motopartsmax. While surfing last week, I also found this same site, and ordered the PZ20 carburetor and gasket set. It seems real similar to the stock 16mm so for $29.95, I am going to give it a shot. There is one on e-bay just like it for $55.00. I think we found his supplier. Yesterday I pulled the head for the first time ever. Milled head .020 and cleaned and polished chamber. Last year I replaced comp. rel in head with a 10mm bolt, and yesterday machined it to be flush inside. Removed valve block screws and reworked them to be flush. My copper head gasket had a crossover through the combustion chamber,"?" this seemed disruptive to me so I trimmed it out of the way, we'll see what happens. All of my intake passages are 20mm, so I'm thinking this little PZ20 will work fine until this winter when I tear engine down for serious work. It's funny how much just a little head work and carbon removal can change performance. Been awhile since I didn't have to peddle to take off. New carb. should help, also. Really nice to get your input on NE-R's. Did you happen to notice motopartsmax also carry all the GY6 parts which are the same as on the NE-R's, CVT. I didn't know they were the same until I read one of Quenton's old posts. Good stuff here in this forum, free for the looking.

THANKS AGAIN
Russell------
 
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RUSSELL45 said:
Good morning Ray, love the pictures of your NE-R. I'll post some of mine first chance. Thanks for the link to motopartsmax. While surfing last week, I also found this same site, and ordered the PZ20 carburetor and gasket set. It seems real similar to the stock 16mm so for $29.95, I am going to give it a shot. There is one on e-bay just like it for $55.00. I think we found his supplier. Yesterday I pulled the head for the first time ever. Milled head .020 and cleaned and polished chamber. Last year I replaced comp. rel in head with a 10mm bolt, and yesterday machined it to be flush inside. Removed valve block screws and reworked them to be flush. My copper head gasket had a crossover through the combustion chamber,"?" this seemed disruptive to me so I trimmed it out of the way, we'll see what happens. All of my intake passages are 20mm, so I'm thinking this little PZ20 will work fine until this winter when I tear engine down for serious work. It's funny how much just a little head work and carbon removal can change performance. Been awhile since I didn't have to peddle to take off. New carb. should help, also. Really nice to get your input on NE-R's. Did you happen to notice motopartsmax also carry all the GY6 parts which are the same as on the NE-R's, CVT. I didn't know they were the same until I read one of Quenton's old posts. Good stuff here in this forum, free for the looking.

THANKS AGAIN
Russell------
Click to expand...
Sorry for the long delay,I did use the PZ20 carb, i couldn't get it to idle by its self. it ran OK, so, then i put the 22mm carb just to see if there was some difference, for me it's perfect, main jet is a #85. for the price how can you go wrong. plus there about 12 miles from me, big plus for sure not having to pay for shipping.

you've done alot more to the motor than i have, i'll be following your examples, thanks, i'll probably do .060 to the head.
really not a whole lot more needed, i really like this CVT too.

I'll keep you inform of what more i do, maybe you can do the same.
i'm gonna do some thermal barrier coating ( heat coating) also, the piston only has about .005 skirt clearance, really not enough. this will drop the temp down to about 275 degrees from 475 plus degrees.

Ray
 
Good Morning Ray. Just a few updates on my NER. The PZ20 carb was set up for a 50cc-100cc engine. I changed the pilot/slow jet out to a #35 and drilled main jet out to about 83.8. Done, ran great, but not good enough!! After reworking head bolts (washers and cut shorter), head gasket and a .020" mill job, still had a gasket leak. Silly me, tried to save a buck. Started over with a .070" head mill, decked cylinder, polished piston and head inside and out! Mild exhaust porting, matched my intake from carb to intake valve (22mm), bought a 22mm Kiehin carb, jetted pilot/slow jet to #35, Main jet to a # 95(JETS R US IN MO),screwed in a new NGK CR7HIX (iridium 1/2" threads) plug. Bought American maid cap screws and thick washers(25mm over exhaust port and 30mm for other 8 and 10mm screws) torqued all to 185 and 210 inch lbs. and fired her up (first try). Wallah!! Running with traffic! CVT is not operating full range. I thought because of low power, now, no longer a problem. After opening rear driven clutch/pulley, found a torque spring almost twice as long as a stock one. As I said in a earlier post, after a lot of research, found this CVT to be really similar to a GY6 or QMB139 skooter system, except for the way oversized torque spring? My thought was another attempt to prevent the NER from exceeding 30mph! I can reach about 43mph @ 5400 feet of altitude here in Colorado without a full range of the CVT. I have ordered new parts for variator and new clutch springs and new torque spring (all stock for a 50cc GY6). From here I will start from scratch and make this big heavy beast run like it should. After I find the right combination, will probably upgrade to either Hoca or Dr. Pulley parts). I don't except the theory it's the redheaded stepchild, but instead, the last and top of the line it was supposed to be! Just saying, but that's only my opinion. Like any new Whizzer, she just needs some(American) adjustments. Thinking about buying another NER that was purchased same time as mine, still in it's shipping crate. I'll let ya know how my CVT test turn out. Lator Gator!! Russell in Co.
 
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The 22mm carb has work really good for me too. i still need to pull off the top end and see whats in there, do head reworking. Russell you've got a lot done. one thing about the CVT there needs to be some belt deflection, if to tight belt will burn, if to loose it will allow the primary clutch to up-shift faster then the secondary clutch casing a low end bog and poor performance.
my belt deflection is set about 3/4", meaning that i lay a straight edge on the belt and measure the distance between the straight edge and the belt between the to two clutches.
i also like a polished piston too. will be looking forward to hearing about your work with the CVT.

Thanks Russell!!

Ray
 

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I research several cvt sites and install videos. All recommended having the belt tight to get the most out of your low in torque. The rear driven pulley freewheels until rpms engage clutch shoes. It just turns with the front variator until then. The big problem so for was the over size torque spring between the clutch and rear sheaves. This tension on the torque spring is heavy and . over match for the variator .In my opinion, front variator can't overcome the extra tension of the torque spring and keeps rear sheave from opening as far as it should. I wasn't sure what RPM clutch spring that was sent from Dallas, so I ordered stock everything to establish a base line to start from. I can climb hills pretty good now, nice to be able to maintain speed and still have throttle left. My transmission parts come Tue. and new jets on Wed. Maybe by the weekend I'll get time to figure this out. I'm also thinking the crank shaft ext the variator is mounted to could be shortened and re threaded. Looks like they used the same length shaft on the Ambassador to allow for extra starting gear wheel, the NER just has a spacer that can be reworked to allow pullies to line up. We will figure it out. Went for a ride this afternoon down to Fort Collins to check out the Tour De Fat parade. Put about 7or8 miles on it, mostly in traffic and she did really good up until I had to sit at two two many lights. After I got going, she cooled down pretty quick. Later Gators, Russell---
 
Hi Russell, i still need to spend more time with the NE-R, I'm just enjoying it the way she is running right now.
I'm going to kinda take the back seat and learn from what your doing, if thats OK? i gotta figure out how to drop the temp from the crankcase too, looking forward to your progress.

Ray
 
10-4 on enjoying the ride. Every time I work on my bikes, just can't wait to see how the mods work out! Still have a lot to do this winter when I will not be tempted to go ride. My new jets should be here tomorrow, I'm ready to be finished with this latest round of fine tuning. My home made jets are really close, but I ordered OEM Kiehin jets that will work better. When finished with CVT changes, I will post pictures of my NER. If you click on my home page here, there is a picture of the bike the day we un-crated and assembled her. "o miles". This was before he gave it to me, the following Fathers Day. Pretty cool,huh? Lator gator----- Russell Ray
 
Racie, the NER also has that double pulley you can flip, on the jack shaft that connects the belt (AX62) to the rear wheel sheave. Are you asking about my reference to the crankshaft spacer in post #16 above? Between my front variator drive plate and flywheel, there is a spacer approx. 1" long. I'm confused also with the engineering thoughts with this set-up. Here's the order my front parts are from engine. Flywheel, 1" long spacer, drive plate, drive face spacer, sliding over this spacer is the front variator plate with 6 rollers inside it, and 3 variator slides between it and the variator back plate followed by a flat washer and finally the nut. My front belt (PL20508) does not line up with variator and rear adjustable sheave. Also, the splines on front shaft, from the engine are not long enough to allow variator back plate to reach them. I was thinking if those splines were cut 3/8" longer toward the engine and the 1"spacer was shortened by about 3/8" also, this would allow the entire variator to move closer to the engine (less stress on driveshaft) allowing both front & rear variator plates to be connected by splined shaft instead of only the rear drive plate as is now. Hence, possibly helping the belt alignment problem. Shaft splines appear to have been cut too short, so to correct this they added a longer spacer and this put the belt out of alignment! I'm still trying to understand Chinese engineering. Maybe the spacer was cheaper to build rather than re-tooling to cut shaft correctly. HMMMMM, another first, huh! Also belt cover mounting studs from engine might come into play. Fixable. This is only my thoughts and observations on my bike (2008 Whizzer NER). Hopefully my explanations make some sense to you. Some times thoughts in my head don't always get on paper accurately and sometimes they do, but shouldn't! Lator Gator, Russell----
 

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