Ne5 Oil Mist out crankcase vent

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I know the oil mist out the breathers have been a problem on the Ne motors. Has anyone come up with a way to stop it. It's a pain when I clean, wax & shine up both bikes for a ride & 20-30 miles into the ride there is an oil mist on the front side of the rear fender & seat tube. The big pain is when I have the Whizzer sadle bags on & the right bag gets an oil mist on the front side of it right where the snap is for the lower flap. My wife always makes me get her stuff out of that bag as your hands get a nice oil film on them from opening & closing the bag. I thought about moving the vent hose, but I would rather remedy the problem if possible. Thanks, Dan
Hi Dan,
On my high performance motors [8820 RPMs] I designed an air/oil separator system and is easy to make. I used a scrap piece of steel, but it could easily be made from supplies from the hardware & local auto parts stores. PM me for more details.

Have fun,
Whizzer OuterBanks LTD
A North Carolina Corporation
To Whom it may concern,
If anyone else wants information or pictures concerning my oil/air separator you need to email me at I have had many calls and several private messages, but I don't want to disclose my inventions on any web site. 99% of all my ideas & inventions have been copied by various companies over the last several years, and I would rather supply the information privately for personal use as opposed to companies selling my ideas. The oil/air separator was developed [by me] several years ago and refined recently and I will gladly share this information to members of this site [free], but will only do it through email, where it is easy to send pictures. As many already know I started using various vent systems as early as 2005 at Paducah, KY during Dyno tests, and have invested a lot of time and research over the last several years, and once again I will gladly share it free.
Although the device is very easy to make, it is difficult to explain, but pictures help in the process. So if you want to know how to vent the crancase at higher RPMs you must send me an email asking for the information. I have passed this information to several with 100% results [not a single drop of oil has been lost via the vent system].
A few comments that are important, first a new Whizzer motor will have higher crankcase pressure during the break-in process, but will drop drastically after the first 500 miles, secondly the pressure increases with RPMs because the motor is oiled via a "dasher" on the bottom of the rod, which is designed to create a "mist" to aid in the lube process. Completely stock motors with 500 miles or more usually don't need the oil/air separator system.
Once again, if anyone needs information about the air/oil separator you must send me an email requesting additional data & pictures.

Whizzer OuterBanks LTD
A North Carolina Corporation
Ambassador 2 Breather

Made this breather 2 weeks ago for my 2008 Ambassador. 1 & 5/8" diameter 4" long filled with stainless steel scrubbing pad (after the bass pro photo). No more oil leak from the breather, not a drop. This should have been the first thing to do on this bike, then the fender tab (that was a nightmare).


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I have a 1998 whizzer. My 2 lines out of my carb are about 1/8 inch. Oil comes out of these lines onto my fender. John
oil from carb

Hey John, you should contact Mr. Quenton Guenther with some pics.
Hi John,

Most of the calls over the last week have concerned the oil vent issue. I have written several articles on websites, and in the Whizzer Newsletter about this problem. This problem is fixable and the results will range from 98% to 100%. I have several [many] personal motors with thousands of miles [each] and the only oil I use is during the "oil change" process, not all over my bike & tires.

First I will explain the problem, and then tell you of fixes that don't work, and then my solution.

The problem is two-fold, first the motor produces too much crankcase pressure, and secondly the entire vent system is based on poor engineering. The vintage Whizzer motor didn't have problems with massive crankcase pressure, even when the cylinder, piston or rings were worn. I can assure everyone, as a youth in Ohio, many of my friends Whizzers "smoked", were worn out, and still didn't blow large amounts of oil out the breather. The reason is very simple and easy to understand and you don't have to have a degree in engineering. On the vintage Whizzer motors a deflector plate was installed at the top rear of the motor. This plate stopped the majority of the oil from the rod "dasher" from entering the top rear of the motor, next the American engineers simply mounted an upright tube with a "clapper" valve and filled it with wire mesh, drilled a hole in the case to allow the breather to access the upper rear corner of the motor. Later vintage motors increased the height of the breather to allow the motor to run 8 ounces of oil instead of the original 6 ounces.

When the new company developed the WC-1 motor the vent exit was in the same place, however it was connected to a bunch of very, very, very small passages in, you guessed it, the upper rear corner of the motor. In about the 1st grade I learned if you reduce the size of a passage [water hose] it will develop more pressure [and spray a greater distance]. Worked good for a water hose, but only stops up the crankcase air vent and increases the pressure in the Whizzer motor.
It was somewhat interesting to watch the amount of changes take place in the oil vent system over the last many years. First a line from the motor found its way to the air breather and when the motor built up crankcase pressure it could [and often did] soak the air breather in oil and choke the intake of the carburetor. Next the line was removed from the air breather and found a new fitting attached to the compression cover. The cover later sported another fitting and two hoses now connected the maze of breather & hoses to the side of the motor. The NE motor closed off the hole from the original WC-1 location and drilled a large hole in the bottom of the cylinder inside the tappet area [under the compression release cover]. Now we can really get the oil moving quickly, because the "dasher" on the rod that splashes the oil around the motor is now in perfect alignment with the new hole, and can fill the tappet chamber with oil very fast. The compression cover on the NE motor had a much larger I.D. vent hose and did aid in separating the air & oil, but just couldn't keep up with that rod throwing so much oil via the hole.

There are the facts, here is the solution. Separate the crankcase air from the crankcase oil. Install an upright tube 4.5" to 5", attach to compression cover via a quality hose. If your cover has the smaller fitting, replace them with larger ones [3/8"]. Fill with wire mesh [NOT STEEL WOOL], and the mesh needs to be very porous [I use a pot scrubber from the Dollar store]. Next install a PCV valve in the top of the tube and remember the valve is controlled by gravity]. I installed with a rubber grommet and worked well.

Have fun,
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I took Quentons advice an made one for my 08 NE5. I had to replace plastic hose with one that could take a little heat. No more oil mist.


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