Need a Skyhawk 111 Expert

Discussion in '4-Stroke Engines' started by dougsr.874, Dec 27, 2008.

  1. dougsr.874

    dougsr.874 Active Member

    About 45 days ago I replaced a hoot gearbox with a Skyhawk 111. Today on a short trip the Skyhawk gearbox locked up and left me side of the road...After finally getting home and tearing the gearbox apart, I found that several of the teeth on the clutch bell gear were worn down to nothing and several others appeared to have broken off, the remains of which were in the bottom of the case.. Before I bought the Skyhawk, I researched the item and thought that it was a far superior item...but it has only lasted for about 100 miles. the other gears show NO signs of wear...The gearcase was filled with 80 to 140 gearoil....I did have the engager locked in the on position all of the time...

    Does anyone know if this is normal wear and tear???Any suggestions on how to prevent such in the future, after I replace the clutch assembly. shows that they have the parts...Any other suppliers of these parts????

  2. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    I have 2nd generation Hoot complete boxes in stock will sell reasonable. PM me for price.

    Have fun,
  3. Mountainman

    Mountainman Active Member

    any type of guarantee ?

    with only 100 miles ridden
    this should not be normal wear
    stories such as this -- only bring bad light to some motor bike engines
    most if not all people ordering engines wish for many
    carefree miles of riding as they ride those THINGS

    did that THING come with any type of guarantee ?

    be nice if you can post in the vendor area
    we wish not for many more of these...

    ride that THING -- when you can
  4. MotorBicycleRacing

    MotorBicycleRacing Well-Known Member

    You already answered your own question. You sheared the teeth off when
    you engaged the engine at high rpms.
    I doubt if that is covered by a guarantee........ is the only supplier of these kits and parts

  5. I think he said his box was engaged all the time. That's how most people run'em 'cause the nuetral is for people (of a questionable nature) who give the bike gas when they start it up causing it to take off if it's not in nuetral. I would think your supplier would replace it for you. The gear probably had fractures from birth; it just took a hundred miles to come apart. Inspect it closely and you may find evidence of this. Good luck! This place also carries Grubee stuff
  6. biketec

    biketec Member

    How were you riding it? down a hill or going flat, let off gave gas clutch springs to life with too much force and BOOM!?
  7. nsideus

    nsideus Guest

    Letting off the gas and then giving gas should not cause the gears on the bell housing to shread. I have thousands of miles on type II and have gassed her hard at the bottom of hills 100's of times with no ill effects.

    One would think factory defect?

    Did you replace the hoot clutch with a grubee?

    I would suggest not using gear oil (runs to hot) use lithium grease (thin with oil if need slightly).

    dougsr.874, your post about the clutch still engaging at idle may indicate a broken spring.
  8. It's really likely a factory defect, as biketec has said.

    Poor castings and low Q/C add up to lots consumer defects w/ no post purchase support/warranty which equals unhappy non repeat customer (I did the math). :clap:
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2009
  9. dougsr.874

    dougsr.874 Active Member


    Thanks to everyone for the info...I can't make the engine idle any lower without it was not engaged at high rpm's...I plan to order a whole new clutch assembly, but this time I will never attempt to engage the gear while the engine is running, even at idle..the lithium gease sounds like a good idea
  10. HoughMade

    HoughMade Guest

    Good idea. Mine is never disengaged. So far, so good.
  11. Irish John

    Irish John Guest

    He didn't say he engaged the gears at high rpm Forbisher. Your quote comes from another thread and it still doesn't say the gears were engaged at anything other than low revs. The gearbox can be engaged at low revs when the bike is statioery but it's much better when the wheels are turning. It can also be engaged at high revs if the bike is freewheeling really fast. If you engage at high revs when stationary the key in the sprocket shaft shears first because it is the thinnest key. The other two keys should also shear before the teeth disintegrate. This is a case of a defective piece of casting in the first gear wheel. The centrifugal clutches in the Grubee and the Hoot are identical and from the same government factory but the clutch bells are very different and the hoot clutch bell wont work on a Grubee cos the teeth are different. The Hoot clutch bell and first gear wheel actually won't work at all because it is a highly flawed design as we all know and that is why nobody buys it and nobody sells it after they've had their first shipment.
    Also the clutch works the same either way around and swapping it around keeps the wear even on the pads.
    It is the easiest thing in the world to drop the engager at too high rpm and the box is designed to sheer the key before the gear wheel chews itself to pieces.
    Keeping the engager permanently engaged is OK but the motor can stall on long downhills and that is why I usually disengage on really long downhills.
  12. dougsr.874

    dougsr.874 Active Member

    Today I received and installed a new clutch assembly kit....I have it permanently engaged. Now to see how long this new one lasts.
  13. MotorBicycleRacing

    MotorBicycleRacing Well-Known Member

    Great to get you back on the road

    Did they warranty the broken part?
    Did you have to pay?
    Was it defective?

    Please give us a little more detail about the whole incident
    and how you were treated.
  14. dougsr.874

    dougsr.874 Active Member

    Thanks for the interest. I talked to Jeremy, he seems to be a nice guy...I did not try to bullcrap him...You know, I really dont know if I caused the problem or if it was defective....So, I paid for the new parts....he did state that if it happened again he would make the parts good. So as I said before, in the future I will keep it engaged constantly so I know it's not me that caused the problem....
  15. Danny3xd

    Danny3xd Member

    Just had the same thing happen. I was engaged and doing around 25 MPH. It is a brand new stage3 with about 30 or 40 miles on it. I have a stage one at a Machine shop and am having hex gears made to replace the %%$#& spur gears. So dang frustrated. This GB was to replace a stage 1 that was problematic.

    Attached Files:

  16. Irish John

    Irish John Guest

    That looks like a casting problem on a bad batch of Stage 3 GBs. The fact that it is the second time it has happened seems to support this as the most likely reason. If you were a young kid and I suspected you'd been doing wheelies it would have snapped your keys long before your gearwheel teeth.
    I'm afraid this looks like a classic case of Chinese Quality Fade. Jeremy needs to replace the gear wheel and clutch bell with one from a different batch because that batch is probably all the same. I'm glad you posted those pictures because the Sydney importer asked me the other day what I thought of the Stage 3 GB and now I can tell him to stick with Stage 2s.
  17. HoughMade

    HoughMade Guest

    Wow- That's wild. I have had a stage II for over 2 years and I just had it apart a couple of weeks ago- looks like new.
  18. Irish John

    Irish John Guest

    HoughMade, after 7000 kms I found the gearbox as good as new except the bell housing and bushing were worn and there was enough lateral play when the bell housing was on the shaft to warrant it being replaced - $30 Aus for a new bell housing, bushing and shaft key and the gearbox is like new again. The bushing was OK but the bell housing was worn a few microns on the inside of the centre hole and lateral play is probably not a good thing for the rest of the GB. I have also noticed that of the 5 spare bushings I have one fits the old bell tightly so I could actually use it again. I've also found, to a point of near certainty, that the whining of a particular gearbox seems to be directly related to how close the fit is between bell housing and bushing. Gearboxes with a looser fit seem to whine less.
    Regarding the Stage3 GB above I think it has to be a bad metal mix prior to casting.
  19. HoughMade

    HoughMade Guest

    I agree- a materials issue- not a design issue.
  20. Danny3xd

    Danny3xd Member

    Is really good to hear you both have had good fortune. Gives me hope. Has any one successfully used a stronger spring yet? Or is drilling still the prefered Method for chatter silencing?