Maybe the roads on the left coast are well suited for 55 on a Whizzer but not here in Pa. (At least not were Kilroy and I live)
Picture this if you will. In the distance you hear a scream. You turn around to see the most frighting site you will ever see. A 300 pound man hurtling down the road at 55mph bouncing over pot holes and dodging road killed critters while desperately trying to maintain control of a bicycle. We all know how good bicycle brakes are when we overload and overheat them at the same time. This it what we call fun here in the east but we do keep the speed down so we can recover from our injuries when we do go down so we can ride again. I just have a bad feeling that going down at 55 on a bicycle would possibly be the end of my riding and it may well cause me to begin to assume room temperature. I'm not ready for that yet... With what I did as a kid I feel like I'm on borrowed time any way.
The original WC-1 motor has problems with the valve seats. Thousands were spent to find a solution and in the end the answer is to upgrade the cylinder. Whizzer offered a kit for $466.10 plus shipping, however the kit contained several parts that were problematic. I have helped hundreds of Whizzer owners get their WC-1 motors running perfectly, and can usually help for less than the kit option.
If you can buy it for $500.00 I would suggest you purchase it right away, because in the end you would have less than $1000.00 invested, and a good running Whizzer is worth far more than that. Because of serious quality control issues on the latest models the older bikes [1999 to EARLY 2008] appear to far more reliable. I have many new edition Whizzers that I ride and many have over 6000 miles on them. I live in NC so I can help you if needed. I doubt you will exceed anywhere near 1000 miles with the original WC-1 motor, but who knows. Most usually quit between 450 to 650 miles, but I have been told [never seen one] that some have made it to 1000 miles before the upgrade is needed.
My advice is to buy it, and I can help you make it "bullet proof". I have lots & lots of Whizzer parts in stock, including parts for the original Whizzers [1939 to 1962].
My first wc-1 made it from San Francisco to Illinois (where Ray Meisner replaced the entire engione out with a new one as per the Company's request) before it started running poorly, loosing it's power (I got lucky that first one had throttle and then some, and snap! You hit the throttle and it got up ...) and pumping oil past the rings. The second engine had all the typical wc-1 symptoms all the rest of the way to New York... Hit and miss with those ones, but I hear there's more bad than good one's. 500 Is a good deal, I'd grab it up if it were me. It's worth it and with nquenton's help you'll have it rockin' reliably in no time.
I did the same; came across a pacemaker for 500.00 with only 7 miles on the clock. I gave it to my Dad for father's day a couple of years ago.
Go get it and enjoy the ride!!!!
It's so new I'm reluctant to begin tearing into it but anything I can do to make it more reliable would be appreciated. I'll probably put a few hundred miles on the engine before I get into that but what about other elements of the drivetrain or maybe just a good, "flat-proof" set of tires? I'll start scouring through the archives but thanks-in-advance to any advice you might be able to give me on this model.
In order to make the 2005 model reliable several changes need to be considered. It is VERY important to convert to mushroom style lifters right away. When I tested the original NE5 motor the lifters "ate" the camshaft lobes. The reason this happened is because of poor engineering, no quality control, and little [or no] tesing a new product prior to release for public use. When I contacted the main office in TX and explained the problem, I also told them of the fix. Because of the size and angle of the lifters, the 10 MM lifters are too small and "dance" down the camshaft lobes, cutting deep holes in the lobes. The cure was simple, just increase the size of the lifter that rides on the lobes [mushroom lifters], however that would cost additional money to change. Instead of fixing it correctly, they simple softened the lifters and hoped no one would catch the problem during the warranty period. In late 2007 they started fixing the problem by using the mushroom lifters, however they altered the original design I offered them in late 2004. I even supplied them with modified lifters to use as a pattern, but something got lost between the USA and Tiawan. I used a set of Whizzer "vintage" 1/2" lifters and cut the area that rides in the crankcase down to 10 MM [.393"] and left the bottom 1/8" the original size [1/2"]so that the lifter would stay on top of the lobe longer, and then "roll" over easily onto the ramp. The original 10 MM and the vintage lifters were center drilled [approx. 80% of the length], however the current product mushroom lifters aren't and are way too heavy, the base is way too long and often cut at an angle [causing the clearance to change as the lifter rotates]. Because the current lifters require so much additional machine work to make them correct, I commisioned an American company to make them correctly, but the demand is great, and most are already sold [less than 25 sets will be left in stock].
Another area that needs attention is the head gasket, the original steel unit often blows, and should be replaced with a copper version [the current offering from Whizzer will not work on the earlier cylinders unless modified]. I suggest contacting the nearest dealer and try find the earlier version copper gasket [I will need to have some special made in the near future].
I noticed the bike you purchased has the rear coaster brake, also an item that may need your attention. The rear hub has the outer flanges "pressed" on, instead of being part of the actual hub, and the flanges work loose and cause the wheel go "limp". The spokes affix to the outer flanges, and when they work loose the spokes no longer hold the wheel together. A simple visit to a bike shop and have them replace the hub with a quality unit is the long term cure. During the visit to the bike shop you might also want to replace the original tubes [I have had many split at the seams] with the thorn resistant versions for safety reasons.
It is important to note that my infromation isn't intended to "bash" or "discredit" anyone, or any company, just want everyone to be safe and enjoy owning a Whizzer.
You got a really good deal on that 2005. I paid $1000. for my 99 & probably have another grand in upgrades. I'm not complaining though because she runs great. Listen to Quenton. He's the one that is my Whizzer advisor & got my bike running fast. By the way, I checked my broken speedo & it's just the cable.