Need Advice on Assembling

CrazyDan

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Jul 9, 2016
Messages
2,165
Put it in the freezer for a bit, metal shrinks when it gets cold. That might help. When you do get it off, take all the spacers off and put only the sprocket on the shaft. Move it back and forth on the shaft till it looks lined up right, and then (without taking the sprocket off or moving it) sit different spacer combos on top of the shaft till it fills in the gap near perfect (they are different thicknesses, so you have many combos). When it's as best as it'll get take the sprocket off, put the correct spacers on first,then the sprocket, then the remaining spacers. Then screw it all back together (using the washer of course). Don't forget the set screws on the sides of the sprocket or the key.
 


spirittoo

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May 18, 2019
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129
There is no way I can put the spacers on after the sprocket ... they won't go over the key. I did manage to get the key out and removed three spacers then put the sprocket back on the other way. The key isn't down far enough on the shaft to put spacers on after the sprocket. The key won't slide at all. I lost one of the side screws. I was putting it in ... at least that what I thought, I had it on the allen wrench started to screw it in then I notice the screw was no longer there. I can't find it. It must be stuck on the bike somewhere. It is extremely small. After I put it back together, it was knocking at first then I reduced the tension that stopped the knocking, and now it seem to be in alignment. No knocking or binding now.:geek::cool:
 

Mcdonns

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Jun 8, 2019
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228
There is no way I can put the spacers on after the sprocket ... they won't go over the key. I did manage to get the key out and removed three spacers then put the sprocket back on the other way. The key isn't down far enough on the shaft to put spacers on after the sprocket. The key won't slide at all. I lost one of the side screws. I was putting it in ... at least that what I thought, I had it on the allen wrench started to screw it in then I notice the screw was no longer there. I can't find it. It must be stuck on the bike somewhere. It is extremely small. After I put it back together, it was knocking at first then I reduced the tension that stopped the knocking, and now it seem to be in alignment. No knocking or binding now.:geek::cool:
Take another pic, now that you have that resolved. The key can also be sized/shortened (if needed), if you ever did need to stack spacers inside and out. Anyway, it’s good to have the alignment done, and definitely tryda locate/replace that set screw.

Good job on the patience! Believe me, it won’t be the last frustration, but you’re covering a lot of ground early. 👍
 

spirittoo

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Joined
May 18, 2019
Messages
129
Where could I look to get a replacement for that set screw? It was the smaller of the two. It is somewhere in the work area, it has to be. I will try finding it later today.
P1040548.JPG
 

gary55

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Nov 27, 2012
Messages
3,830
Napa auto or true value hardware should have the set screws. You should take the remaining 1 with you to match it up.
 

Mcdonns

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Jun 8, 2019
Messages
228
Ye know, that chainline looks pert friggin’ sweet, now. Can’t quite tell, but looks like everything is clear o’ that chain, and ye still got a good 1/4” or so clearance o’ the tire. You’re secure in the dropouts, as well, and the pedal chain looks straight. Again, I’m kinda old ‘n blind, but that’s what I think I see. Also appears maybe ye got kinda tired o’ hittin’ Yer elbows an’ maybe yer scalp on those tensioner hoop bolts, by the look o’ th’ tape on them threads. 👍😉
 

spirittoo

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May 18, 2019
Messages
129
Napa auto or true value hardware should have the set screws. You should take the remaining 1 with you to match it up.
There were two different sizes according the my metric allen wrenches one was a 2.5 the one I lost was 2 ... would that be a M2 in metric?
 

spirittoo

Active Member
Joined
May 18, 2019
Messages
129
Ye know, that chainline looks pert friggin’ sweet, now. Can’t quite tell, but looks like everything is clear o’ that chain, and ye still got a good 1/4” or so clearance o’ the tire. You’re secure in the dropouts, as well, and the pedal chain looks straight. Again, I’m kinda old ‘n blind, but that’s what I think I see. Also appears maybe ye got kinda tired o’ hittin’ Yer elbows an’ maybe yer scalp on those tensioner hoop bolts, by the look o’ th’ tape on them threads. 👍😉
Yep you are correct ... I have about a 1/4 in. clearance from the tire and the chain is clear of the frame too. You are also correct about hitting my elbows, arms, hands, didn't quite make it to the scalp yet. I cut them and put tape on them, and where I cut the back fender. So I can finally say I'm getting close to taking this puppy out for a ride soon.:giggle: At least I hope so.:sneaky:

Took this old woman in comfortable shoes months to do it, but it looks like I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. :geek:
 

spirittoo

Active Member
Joined
May 18, 2019
Messages
129
I tried to find a replacement set screw at the auto stores and hardware, but they don't carry it that small. I had to order some from ebay. Ordered some M2 2mm, that sure be about right. I can't believe I can't find that little sucker.:rolleyes:

So do you think I can go ahead, check the oil, put a little gas in and see if the engine will run? Do think it will be okay to put the basket on the bike or just leave it off? With Basket .
P1040550.JPG
Also the starting instruction are not clear about the choke. It state to move it down, but it will only go from side to side. Can anyone tell me which position the choke is in now? As you can see I had to glue a washer on the carb because the slot for the cable was too wide. There is a plastic numb in the throttle housing that is keeping it from snapping back ... I have to figure out what to do about that to free it up.
 
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