need advice on my moon dog before install.

Marktur will regular wrenches do the job? Why "cone wrenches?" I have a huge craftsman tool set with nearly every wrench and/or socket I've ever needed for lots of stuff, do you think it'll do? Also what do you mean the "front"? The forks? Front hub? The Crank? Can you be more specific about which exact parts 'require' cone wrenches and what sizes for each location? It will help me alot.

I also have another lead on the freewheel remover: Pacific bicycles number is 18007249466- ask for the division that handles the kulana moon dog, then ask for a parts order. Their part number for telephone ordering (online ordering not available) is "TLRFW" it's like 6.95 or 7.95, I forget. Their shipping rates are reasonable too- 4 bucks to my zip code...

Does anyone know what if any special tools are required to disassemble the crank? Mine hasn't arrived from my order yet, but I know sometimes you need a funny wrench that looks like a half circle with a fingernail or something. I don't want to improvise removal of that piece with a hammer and a slotted screwdriver if I don't have to... Anyone know what I'm talking about?

-Evan
 
Hi Evan,

For the crankset:

A 14mm open end wrench for the pedals and I used a large adjustable (12" or larger) for the bottom bracket nut. Don't know the exact size for the BB nut because a didn't have something that big in the open end wrench set. The bearings are the caged type. No special tools required for a complete disassembly.

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So cruiser, other than the need for a freewheel remover tool, I should be able to re-pack ALL other bearings without any additional special tools? -Evan
 
I only addressed the bottom bracket. Cone wrenches are used for the wheel bearing cones because the flats are not very wide and you really need a thin wrench to get in there. Cone wrenches are probably less than 1/4" thick. The cone wrench is used to hold the bearing cone so that you can tighten the lock nut without disturbing the adjustment of the bearing. I did not check into the headset (fork) bearings since the play was correct and there was no binding on my bike...

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Cone wrenches are pretty inexpensive <$5 wrench at a bike shop, and I've seen them on eBay for even less...just get the 3 I named. Then also get the Park FR1 - this is what you need to take off the gear cassette. I haven't done the fork yet, and not sure what specialized tools are involved for that. Regular wrenches do not fit on the cones and you can use regular wrenches for the locknut, but a cone wrench is thinner and allows you to make adjustments while the wheel is on the bike if you need to.
 
Guys - I JUST did this last night... first time, and not hard at all -- with the right tools!

You need the Park FR1 Chain ring tool to remove the cassette. You do NOT need a whip.
You also need 15, 17 cone wrenches for the rear, 13 for the front. You need a regular 15mm wrench for the wheel nut. Get a big monkey wrench for the FR1...or you will hurt yourself loosening it up!

Apparantly, lube is at a premium at the chinese bike factory....mine were one step from "dry".

Marktur- I'm going to need to order those cone wrenhes to do this right. Do I need two of each? Can you be more specific becuase some wrenches online contain multiple sizes on one tool but it'd be useless if I needed to use both sizes at once. Can you tell me more specifcally which wrenches need 'doubles' and Which sizes I won't need to use simultaneously so I can try to minimize tool count? Thanks -Evan
 
Hi Evan,
You need one of each. The 17 is for the locknut, the 15 is for the cone - 13 for the front. You don't have to get the 17, but it makes it easy to adjust on the bike, without removing the tire. Trust me - I just did that yesterday, because it loosened up on me. :)

Hope that helps!
 
Cheap...don't buy a freewheel tool until you know exactly which freewheel or cassette you have. There are several variations, especially on the newer Chinese bikes. But if you're going to repack only, you don't need to pull the freewheel; disassemble just the left side. Once the axle is out of the way you can get grease into the right race easily.
 
Thanks bikejohn but I broke down and bought the tool from them for 7 bucks... Marktur- based on the sizes you gave me, would I be able to buy just these two combination wrenches without ever needing to use both sides of one wrench at the same time? Links below. Cheapest I could find. Hence my name ;) Thanks if you can help.

http://www.rei.com/product/758555?p...-6348-DD11-98CA-001422107090&mr:referralID=NA

http://www.rei.com/product/758555?p...-6348-DD11-98CA-001422107090&mr:referralID=NA

The picture is the same for both products but if you look at the drop-down list they're selling a combination 13/17mm wrench, and a combination 15/16mm wrench. As long as I don't need the 13mm and the 17mm at tyhe same time, or the 15mm and the 16mm at the same time I'll be ok. Can you verify that just these two combo wrenches will be ok? Happy 4th of july everyone!

-Evan
 
Evan, while it's possible that you might need a 13 and 17 or a 15 and 16 at the same time, it's best to use a "real" wrench on the jam nut--only the cone needs a thin cone wrench. You can use the cone wrench in combo with a regular wrench. The jam nut is thicker and those good 'ol Snap-ons or Craftsmans will work best. In fact I wouldn't recommend using a cone wrench on the jam just because it will wear out quicker. These wrenches are stamped from sheet steel and they do wear out fairly quickly--and like you I am cheap.

As for the 16mm, I've worked on foreign cars and motorcycles since the 60's and I have never used a 16 or 18 in my life--until I started on bikes. I've bought sets of metric wrenches that have both and could never figure out why they had those two sizes since they aren't really used. When's the last time you used a 19/32" wrench? They make them but who uses them nowadays? Anyway, I was working on a Gitane a while back and it had a 16mm jam nut. I was floored! I must own half a dozen, new, never used 16's, but of course I couldn't find one...

j
 
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