Need Advice (want to modify a MTB)

[locksmith]

Hey everyone, I'm a long time scooter guy (gopeds, bladez gas scooters) ready to party with a motorized bike.

I looked at the staton kits a long time ago and want a new toy so here I am.


Here's the bike I want to mod. It's a 2005 Raleigh M80

As for the motor, I've had good experiences with Tanaka.

This is what I'm looking at:

http://www.staton-inc.com/store/pro...ka_35_cc_1_60_hp_Two_Cycle_Engine-331-13.html

Would these two work together? Looking to mount this together. I can take pics if necessary

I'm a total n00b at modding these, but it seems the staton is well liked. My other concern is the bike has disc brakes... Do I need to get different ones?

Thanks.

 

[Dankoozy]

Disc brakes should be grand - the roller pushing down on the tyre will also help slow you down. You might need different tyres (semi slick). I'd go for a 4 stroke engine myself, no need to worry about it not getting oil if you do engine braking on a steep descent

 

[locksmith]

Thanks.

Thanks, i will keep you apprised! I'm debating putting this on my 29'er since it's smoother and I don't like it much as a bike

http://www.staton-inc.com/store/products/6_Hole_bracket_Kit-1706-34.html

 

[rawly old]

As far as the bike goes, the recent raleigh mbs don't say much to me, but
I have an '89 technuim bike I love. I think a Tanaka is definitely the right
choice. I recently put a Tanaka PF 4000 on my friction kit and I was blown
away by the performance. You should get the 40 cc though, not the 35.
It's well worth it. I noticed the price shown in your attachment is way more
than what I currently see on staton's sight. the price I see for the 4000
is $349. Get the 40cc, awesome. I've had a lot of engines. this one's pricy,
but it's the best yet.
Dan's right about the tires, the 4000 will rip the knobs right off a knobby
tire. I don't have the model off the top of my head, but Kenda makes
one with a smooth middle and knobs at the outside edges. It has a flat
profile that allows more surface to roller contact, hence more grip.

 

[locksmith]

Dude that's exactly what I ordered The reason it's more is because it includes the kit.
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/pro..._39_8_cc_2_2_hp_Two_Cycle_Engine-1250-13.html

I went with this because I live in a fairly hilly area and need the extra power to get my ass up the hills lol

One thing, The disc brake caliper (in red) sticks out and I'm concerned it will interfere with the piece that attaches below to support the motor

 

[darwin]

You can use a few washers to space out the support if needed, you can tweak the support rod also. Remember its aluminum, no sharp bends just a gradual one. Congrats on your new ride.

 

[rawly old]

Yeah, what he said; you'll probly need a bit longer bolt,
but it looks to be an easy mod. Sry 'bout the price confusion.
I hope you got the big roller. You're in for some serious fun.
no need at all to bend the support, just use a spacer to move
it out a little.

 

[locksmith]

UPDATE***

Got the kit today, but the bike is still not together yet cause of 2 problems.

The first is the hole on the bike for the middle screw is obstructed, so the screw doesn't fit.



Should I just drill through it?

Second is my concern is confirmed, the disc brake sticks out too far, so tomorrow, I'm gonna buy a longer screw and spacer. Is this all I need?

I anticipate buying between 1.75"-2.5" screws and a few spacers at home depo

The only other thing I foresee going wrong is the support rod will now be too far apart at the top and will not mount to the quick release on the motor. What should I do if this happens?

Can I extend it somehow?

Thanks in advance

They do taper inward, but it looks like the mount is pretty narrow.

 

[rawly old]

Just mount above the hole. "Important": Use a cut up tube or old tire
between the frame and the mounting brackets on both sides of the frame.
You can punch holes for the bolts thru the rubber with a hot screwdriver.
This will protect the paint, but more importantly it dampen vibration &
protect the frame as well as keeping the bracket from slipping. DO NOT
over\ tighten the bracket bolts & crush the tubing!
As far as the struts are concerned, there should be spacers with the kit,
one long for inside the channel, two short on either side to go between
the channel & the strut, the skewer running thru them.
P.S. Mounting above the cross piece the center bolt will keep the bracket
from slipping down. Drilling the cross piece can only weaken it.
You could extent the strut a bit, but that shouldn't be necessary. It's
okay if they slant in a little I've welded extra corners inside the corners of my
bracket that really solid the whole thing up cuz my trailer mount is on the
channel.

 

[rawly old]

WHOA, did you get a kit with a single support rod or
two flat slotted aluminum struts? Okay just checked
Staton's site to be sure; go to 3. friction kits. Then
click 76mm friction kit. the is a picture looking from directly
behind the bike that show exactly how the struts mount.
Geesh! now you know why iI like old school mtn. bikes.