Need Carb Jets for 66/80cc

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by deeppurple52, Jan 29, 2011.

  1. deeppurple52

    deeppurple52 New Member

    Where can I purchase carb jets for my 66cc Skyhawk? The main jet has a much larger thread than the 5mm Deorto jets.
    The bike runs reasonably well to about 3/4 throttle. From there up I have to choke it to keep it from bogging. This tells me the main jet is too small. I have no problem tuning but I need a source for jets to get it right. Any help out there?

  2. Pablo

    Pablo Motored Bikes Sponsor

    What kind of carb do you have?
  3. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

    Someone was saying in another thread about tapping out the jet making it bigger, and then putting wire in the center of the jet's hole until it is set where you want. Then just solder it to the jet and let it go. Wish I could source it.

    For the best way I'd say throw away that CNS garbage and get an NT carb, then you can use the 5mm Delortos, and you don't have to choke more than you're throttling.
  4. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    You need to make the jet bigger to richen up the mixture. You can get a set of pin drill bits that are very tiny.
    you can figure out what size the hole is in the jet with a drill bit, and then drill out the hole 1 size bigger at a time until it runs better.
    This will take a lot of time, but it works.
    the trick is to drill the hole out a little at a time and try it every time after you drill it out.
    a tiny change in jet size, makes a big difference.
  5. i bought a whole set of jets from sick bike parts. i have an sd stinger engine and a nt carb. i just tried to put a 72 jet in and it will not screw in all the way. the threads must be slightly bigger than the stock jet. also the thing looks nothing like the original one at all. completely different. i thought people were using these jets on nt carbs? i believe they are dellorto jets. sick bike parts sells them. i have 10 of them now i paid like $4 a piece for. and i cant use them. whats the deal?
  6. Pablo

    Pablo Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Have you removed the old jet itself from the tube?
  7. yeah. took the tube out. took the jet out of the end of the tube. but the new jet (dellorto jet from sick bike parts) will not screw all the way in. and i really dont want to try and force it. the threads are obviously a little bit bigger. i havent heard any one else have problems like this. i wonder what the deal is?
  8. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

    Just because the threads are bigger, that doesn't /really/ mean anything. Now, if you said there's a larger thread pitch, then definitely don't use it! But it's going to be slightly larger threads than what you pulled out of there. It's not going to slide in like butter, cause it's not the same mfgr. Make sure it's not cross threaded and make sure you don't have a piece of sand in your threads on either piece - then, crank it on.

    Of course, there's a chance that Stinger's have something weird going on with the tube - maybe some nonstock thing, who knows.
  9. Pablo

    Pablo Motored Bikes Sponsor

    This IS very odd.

    The SBP jets are 5mm, so I doubt it's a size issue - the only other jet sizes are 6mm. I wonder if you have a Chinese custom job (CCJ)
  10. i wouldnt think that it was a 6mm. its almost like its a 4 1/2 hahaha. but yeah. i wonder if maybe there is something a little different with the sd stinger. i see that not many people have them. so maybe i have found an issue no one else has run into and talked about before...

    now i do have a question though. i see people always mention the stock carbs as being an "NT" carb. the carb i have says "NTTC" on it. are these the same thing??
  11. toojung2die

    toojung2die Member

    I have a stock NT carb and I found the same problem with the SBP 5mm jets as back2theborstal. They don't screw in all the way. It feels like the thread pitch is different when I tighten the new jet. But when I put the old jet threads against the new jet threads they seem to match pitch and diameter. I tightened the new jet as much as felt safe without stripping and it has been working fine. Though there is a gap between the 'head' of the jet and the tube where there was none before.
  12. Pablo

    Pablo Motored Bikes Sponsor

    I'm really thinking the NT carbs have changed. Will need to investigate. Thanks.
  13. alright i decided to keep screwing the new jet in. i usually dont try to force anything. especially with these kits, because everytime i do i strip something. but it ended up working out alright. i just kept tightening it, and it worked its way all the way down. and nothing stripped. i guess its just a tighter fit. i even took it out and put the old original one back in, and it still fit ok. so i guess you just have to keep tightening even after you feel comfortable. and it works out ok...

    i have yet to see how it runs now though with the 72 jet. i keep having problems with the chain tensionor and the rear drive sprocket. i cant get it to stay centered, so i have tight and slack parts in my chain. i wish i could get that pinneapple mount from spooky tooth!
  14. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

    I always suggest this when someone can't center a rear sprocket.

    Take a 5 gallon bucket, some concrete and a pair of old dead forks. Concrete those forks in upside down, and ouila! You've got a hub centering station. This way you can spin the wheel around and center until it gets perfect. As well - if your ragjoint is starting to get torn up, flip it around and use the other side.

    Personally (many people have said otherwise, but it's worked for me), I don't use a plate on the inside of the ragjoint, instead I put it on the outside. I just use large enough washers to be sure the nut doesn't tear the rag. This allows the rag to actually grab and torque the spokes (as opposed to the bolts torquing the spokes), and it keeps the whole unit from traveling. Just be sure to use the right size of washer (not too big, not too small). And of course, use steel bolts so you can actually torque them down! This has also majorly lengthened the lifespan of spokes on rims for me too.