need help diagnosing bad cdi or magneto

i soldered the joint on my coil and nothing changed so i ordered a whole new kit. i hope i don't have this same problem again with the new one.
 
I put a new engine kit on and still haven't gotten it running. it has spark and even seemed to want to turn over sparking enough to sound like it started up as i let the clutch out on a downward slope it had a little bit of centrifugal force of its own but wouldn't quite start. I'm going to adjust the needles location tomorrow and see if i can get it going. i opened the float bowl as it seemed to be overflowing for a second but i think my gas line had slipped off. i need to review how to adjust the float level and the settings for the c-clip rings on the needle. my throttle handle wasn't quite tightened up so it was spinning around. i had poured gas in the top sparkplug hole and in the manifold intake hole because it didn't seem to have sucked any gas into the engine from turning over. i'm not sure how that carb is supposed to work but i adjusted it the best i knew how.
 
i finally got it running at least running for 300 feet usually before it cuts off like it ran out of gas. this happens then after 30 seconds or so i get it started again dropping the clutch as i pedal. this happened 15 times or so before i adjusted the c-clips position up one notch from its middle position. i checked that the sleeve inside the carb controlled by the throttle worked properly. i opened the float bowl just to say i did i guess. at that point i ripped part of the cork like gasket screwing it back on as the gasket seemed to large and poked out at a point i hadn't seen. it leaked there when i turned it on its side. i went for a ride again and same thing was going on. then i adjusted the c-clip down a notch from the middle position and went for a ride. no difference. then i replaced the carb with a nearly exact duplicate from another bgf kit and didn't adjust anything. i went out for a ride and same thing happened. i was trying open choke, half open choke. my throttle seemed to make very little difference as i could start the bike and it would run without any throttle at all. twisting the throttle would rev it higher at points as would slightly squeezing the clutch. i found a little bit of oil on my cdi which was in front of the engine so i tightened the bolts holding the head cap on. my muffler is a long poop pipe type muffler and the end cap was coming off. i was going to replace it with a standard muffler just when i decided to quit for the day. i am very excited to have it run at all though. i've been waiting for this for a long time. it seems to not be sucking enough gas into the engine to me. before it cuts off usually it runs slower and with not as much vigor before seeming to be turning over but not running. any ideas what the problem could be? is that air fuel mixture screw add fuel if you screw it in? if i bend the float bowl holding forks down some will it let more gas into the bowl?
 
i found the main problem was that my gas cap needed to be loose so it would let the gas go into the carb. you need to put that on your list al. It didn't have much power (but i do have the smallest drive sprocket i could find) and the throttle seems to decide more how much noise it makes than anything else. does screwing in the air fuel mixture screw add more gas or air? pulling the clutch all the way makes my idling engine sound like its gonna explode from revving so high, so i can't fool with anything while it's still. anyways i got a five mile ride out of it today after i finally figured out to loosen my gascap. I'm happy. i wish i had a camera but i can't afford one right now.
 
HT Engine?

i found the main problem was that my gas cap needed to be loose so it would let the gas go into the carb. you need to put that on your list al. It didn't have much power (but i do have the smallest drive sprocket i could find) and the throttle seems to decide more how much noise it makes than anything else. does screwing in the air fuel mixture screw add more gas or air? pulling the clutch all the way makes my idling engine sound like its gonna explode from revving so high, so i can't fool with anything while it's still. anyways i got a five mile ride out of it today after i finally figured out to loosen my gascap. I'm happy. i wish i had a camera but i can't afford one right now.

Are we talking about the chinese 2 stroke with the stock (cnc) carb. If so, Theres only one screw on it and thats a idle adjust ONLY, NO air screw on it. Just set it in or out untill you have it idleing where you want it.
The gas cap thing comes up once in a while, Then everyone forgets about it again. The first time it happend to me I sat on the side of the road for an hour before I figured it out.
And yeah, Some of these engines sound like their gonna fly apart at idle. It may get better when it's broke in. Make sure you service it before you ride it too much more. The bucking bar and clutch arm assembly needs grease, (Take the bucking bar out, push some grease inside for the bearing.) The crank gear, clutch side, along with the clutch gear itself, needs just a small touch of grease, (not too much or it'll get on the clutch pads.) Try to also get a little grease (or heavy oil) into the very small bearings on the clutch itself. The chain also needs a good chain lube. And just go through the entire bike and make sure everything is tight, greased and (or) oiled. You'll be fine untill it breaks.:sick: And trust me, sooner or later, SOMETHING WILL.
And OH YEAH. If you haven't already, Change the spark plug (NGKB6HS) and plug wire. You can use any "good" auto type plug wire. It'll be a lot better then what it came with.
 
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will do. thanks for the tips. i sprayed some pj lube on the chains already. i'm bout to go ride this thing thru the rain to get to work and see what other problems i can cause.
 
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