Need Help With Hub Motor

Discussion in 'Electric Bicycles' started by dougsr.874, Oct 8, 2011.

  1. dougsr.874

    dougsr.874 Active Member

    I finally got around to installing the kit. I numbered each wire as it was when it came out of the box. so I think I have it wired correctly. However, when you try to use it with the throttle, the wheel just jerks a couple of times but does not turn.....the wheel turns freely with power off.....I have the full printed instructions and it talks about debugging the motor....but written in
    Chinese phraseology, so its hard to comprehend.....I do have 2 wire left over. a single green one with NOWHERE to connect to...and a black & red that I think go to a PAS system and not used here....PLEASE HELP

  2. What brand kit? Front or rear hub motor? Watts? Direct drive or geared hub motor? We can't help you without more information. I'm a bit familiar with the e-bikekits, but I have no idea what you have except it is an electric hub motor from a kit.
  3. dougsr.874

    dougsr.874 Active Member

    I bought this thing from BGF(yeah I know) there is NO brand name on it , just a bunch of Chinese characters on the motor itself,,,,it's supposed to be 24volt, 350 watt, the only paper that came in the box however showed the controller to be 36volt,,,I have emailed Rick Shi for more info.... it's a front hub motor , direct the meantime, I found I one of the pins in one of the connectors bent, so I straightened it and the wheel will now turn if it's elevated and not under a load....under a load it just jerks....I have 2 new SLA batteries that show fully charged....Could it be a 36volt can you tell
  4. I will have to defer to the many on here that know a great deal more than I do about electric power. A 36 volt controller for a 24 volt motor? Right off the bat that sounds wrong. On the other hand, most controllers can be programed to run 24, 36, 48, or more volt motors. With my motors, I can run the same motor on 36, 48, 60, up to 72 volt batteries, but I think I would need to reprogram the controller for each voltage. I have no clue as to how to program/reprogram a controller. My kits worked perfectly, right out of the box. BGF has a well earned reputation for selling shoddy goods and not standing behind what he sells, but I thought he was trying to remedy that poor reputation. My best advice is to call or e-mail Rick and see if he will be of help. My father used to say,"Trying to go cheap usually ends up costing more in the long run." This may be a case where that is true. My kit may have cost more, but the company is in New Jersey, not China, and it is a kit of high quality components and they are he** bent to help with any questions or problems. My Ping LiFePo4 batteries are from a company in China, but they are most helpful. The problem is if I have a serious problem, the cost to ship it to China for repair, even under warranty, will be exorbitant.

    I'm sorry I can't be of more help. I'm sure some of the bright people on here with greater knowledge of electric power will be of help.
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2011
  5. Ypedal

    Ypedal Member

    one of a few things can be happening...

    the motor has 3 fat power wires and 5 more thinner ( hall/sense ) wires, if the motor and controller are not connected in the proper order ( the colors do not always match ) the motor will either run rough or not at all.. dont persist with the throttle if it's not running smoothly, stop ..

    then.. if the wires are correctly matched.. the motor itself wont care what voltage it gets ( it spins faster with more volts... and Volts x Amps = Watts so more ommph at higher votlages ).. the controller however has a LVC ( low voltage cutoff ) that can be a problem if the controller wants 36v and you are using a 24v pack.. as soon as you hit the throttle it shuts down.. got a link to the site you got this from ? i'm not familiar with that vendor.

    between the motor and controller, is it bullet connectors ? or a 3 pin etc socket ?
  6. dougsr.874

    dougsr.874 Active Member

    Ypedal, thanks for the info...I've got it going though its not very fast....when I packed the controller in a bag to hide the wires I guess one of the bullet connectors came off...I was also told by the seller to disconnect the yellow wire which I did and it actually works now...Since you said more voltage equals more ommph, I think I'll go ahead and buy another battery and run it on 36 volts...what do you think....
  7. dougsr.874

    dougsr.874 Active Member

    Will the same charger that came with the kit work if I go to 36volts....????????
  8. Ypedal

    Ypedal Member


    But, you can use the existing charger for the 24v pack and use a seperate 12v charger for the 3rd battery.

    Wire the 3 batteries in series for 36v, and add seperate wire taps to the 24v and 12v sections, you can leave the 36v pack together and just hook up both chargers at the same time.

    or get a 36v charger.. i would only do this is the 2 existing batteries are new or similar to the 3rd battery, mixing old and new bricks is not the best thing as they dont always ballance out.. charging them with seperate chargers kinda deals with this.

    Better yet is to get rid of the lead acid and move to Lithium !!! replace 30 lbs with 10 lbs ! ( or less )
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2011
  9. dougsr.874

    dougsr.874 Active Member

    Mr. Ypedal, More questions if you will....I examined the controller, it is marked , looks like the seller marked out 36v and wrote in 24v. there are two other unmarked boxes that says 48v and 60v....can this controller be used for 36volts as is....also where is the best place to buy the Lithium batteries. My original plan was to try and build and sell these bikes....but now I'm getting more money into it that I could ever sell it for.....I was selling a few gas bikes over the past 5 years but the local Florida laws are putting people off of the gas bikes....
  10. I mentioned that controllers can be programed for different voltages. Your controller is built for 36 volts, but can be reprogrammed for 24, 36, 48, and 60 volts. If you knew how, I'll bet you could plug into it with a computer and reprogram it, or open it up and remove one chip and plug in a different chip to change it to 36 volts.
  11. As far as price goes, Schwinn lists $2,200.00 for an e-bike they sell through their dealers. Of course everytime I see one in the bike shops they are always marked down, usually to $1,700.00 or so.
  12. Ypedal

    Ypedal Member

    Most, and i repeat, MOST, brushless kit controllers can be run on higher voltage without any modifications.. as long as you dont care about the LVC setting ( low voltage cutoff )

    crystalyte, infineon, 9C, E-bikekit, A2B, Wilderness Energy, i have personally all run those stock 36v at 48v without any problems..

    You do want to consider that if you have one of those LED throttles, set for 24v, may not like higher voltages, but if it's a non-led throttle it makes no difference ( the led wire can simply be cut from the throttle connector to disable it )

    some of the better controllers do have USB type connectors that you can use to program thorttle response, LVC, etc etc etc but no need for that on 500w setups.

    Sources for good pre-built lithium packs, is one i can highly recommend, ping is the duct tape from china ( actually now comes with normal heat shrink vs duct tape lol ) lower end but trusted vendor, there are many more but paying bottom end prices usually gets you what you paid for..

    Me, personally, i'm using turnigy and zippy lipo packs from but that requires an informed and risk taking individual..

    i've spent 1000's ( more like 10's actually ) searching for the holy grail of battery tech and i canot say that it's available yet, there are diy solutions and some better pre-built packs but nothing is perfected yet... it's early days..