Need help with my 4-stroke Huasheng kit

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Horsem4n, Oct 18, 2016.

  1. Horsem4n

    Horsem4n New Member

    I have a 4 stroke kit as it comes from Bikeberry.
    right now, i'm having a few problems that i would like some advice with.
    a little background first. i bought the kit a year ago in 2015. i first tried to assemble it then and ran into issues with the rear sprocket, the chain stay mounted chain tensioner, the wide crank set's compatibility with my chain, and the air filter cover. it has since sit for a year as i elected to pay off the affirm loan before ordering more parts.

    1: i don't really have a rear drive sprocket option that seems to work for me right now. the stock sprocket doesn't exactly fit my rear hub and doesn't sit 100% straight and the minor wobble left still knocks the chain off. i can widen the ID of the hub hole on the sprocket, but i was looking at other options. I ordered a BBR tuning sprocket with the standard 1.52" adapter. i made the mistake of ordering this sprocket assembly as my rear hub is actually pretty thin at .624". really stupid mistake.
    I was looking at getting a different rear wheel, but my mental energy is kinda running out on that one. may just go with the BBR wheel assembly available on bikeberry.
    i'd just like some advice on what i should do here, from getting spacers for the hub to selling mine and getting one that would actually work for my hub.

    2: I ordered a sprung chain stay mounted tensioner and a sprocket upgrade for it to try solving the problems i was having with the stock tensioner and idler pully. but i have been reading on this site that frame mounted tensioners are never any good. what tensioner for this 4 stroke engine should i have bought? i know about the motor mounted ones for 2 stroke kits, but i haven't seen any for these 4 stroke motors.
    it doesn't help that my chain stays are not parallel to the real wheel.

    3: after some filing to the crank sprocket, my chain still doesn't really fit. i'm going to try to file down the teeth a little as i have only filed off the burrs and flash from the edges of the teeth like on the motors drive sprocket. the bike im mounting the kit to is a +-20 year old huffy mountain bike. i bought a new chain for the human powered drive train just to make sure that its not fitting because its just old.

    4: the motor kinda barely fits in the frame of my bike. well, it doesn't really fit, i have to take the cover off the air intake to get it to fit. Is it OK to cut the cover to fit around the frame or can i just place some tape over the filter so it stays in (leaving a ~1/4" slot uncovered at the bottom)?

    so, yeah, those are my grievances right now. thanks to anyone who read and is thinking of advice for me.

    EDIT: i found a website called maniac michanic,
    i talked to them and even though i mistakenly bought a copy of their parts, they were still friendly and helped me out. i was able to order a bushing that adapts the BBR adapter to my small hub size and their chain tensioner that mounts to a fender screw hole and anchors to the chain stay. i'll update if those parts work for me.
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2016
    Tom from Rubicon likes this.

  2. bakaneko

    bakaneko Active Member

    1. maybe a picture will help. try to minimize wiggles since they will destroy your hub and bearings/nuts. worse case scenario, buy a cheap used bike and scrap the wheel ($15-25 depending on your location).

    2. the stock one is fine depending on your bike bar width. if it is too skinny then yeah you will have to do some modifying or buy an arc tensioner ($25-35)

    3. the chain tension should eventually shape the sprocket. put decent tension on it during the first 100 miles

    4. many of us have removed the plastic to fit the engine. it is fine. just make sure there is an air filter pad over the air intake for the carb. i have all the plastic off - muffler and plastic filter fitting
  4. bakaneko

    bakaneko Active Member

    Sorry, just read this a little closer. It is not fine to put tape over the filter intake and leave a 1/4" slot at the bottom. You can ruin your engine this way and have sub optimal performance. I would suggest just cutting part of the filter foam and fitting it over the intake with wire until you want to put a nicer setup there.
  5. hazmat

    hazmat New Member

    take out some powertools and hack and mod the bicycle and engine just make sure whats air tight stays that way and filters dont become obsolete from mods
  6. Horsem4n

    Horsem4n New Member

    Thanks for the advice guys. I got some parts from mmbikes and solved my issues with the sprocket and chain tensioner. I looked at the arc tensioners and that would have made my problem more complicated. MMs chain tensioner works for me.

    As for the intake, I'll try taking it apart and just clamping the filter over it. Today I cut the cover so it fits around the frame and put tape over the top to cover the cut, but it still has its normal slit at the bottom of the cover to suck in air. However, I like the idea of just clamping the filter to the intake.

    As for the chain, I don't know. But I'm not super worried about it. I'll just take it to my local bike shop to see what they say. I'm not going to be using it much. Only if I have to. The new chain I bought, a walmart one, didn't fit the sprocket either. It's just odd that most people put these engin kits on walmart beach cruisers and a walmart chain doesn't fit the crank sprocket in the kit.

    Thanks again guys. I'll be starting it finally tomorrow. Ill update then.
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2016
  7. bakaneko

    bakaneko Active Member

    Cut a rectangular piece from the foam and use two metal or regular plastic zip ties. It wraps around the back and will hold well until you want to do something more aesthetic.
  8. Horsem4n

    Horsem4n New Member

    Something like this?

    Just to post it, this it the maniac mechanic rigid chain tensioner with a sprocket idler. There isn't enough pics online of it.
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2016
  9. Horsem4n

    Horsem4n New Member

    I tried starting it today and I didn't get it to run at all.
    When I first added the fuel, I left the fuel valve open and I found that the fuel dropped straight through to the overflow tube. I don't think it's supposed to do that.
    Every time I open the valve for fuel, it goes out through the overflow.

    The engine has been sitting a year with a little oil in it. Never started.

    I think part of my problem is I don't have spark. I checked and I didn't see the spark plug make any visual spark. But when I grounded it with my hand, I could feel the shock from the magneto. If I can feel the shock, should that be ok or should try swapping around the wiring to the kill switch?

    I double checked and it does get spark. The only thing I can think of is that the fuel is dropping through the carburator, so there must be something wrong there or the cylinder may be being flooded. The spark plug had a bead of fuel in the tip. I've never serviced a carburetor so I don't know what to look for.
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2016
  10. Horsem4n

    Horsem4n New Member

    Alright, so this topic can be closed. I found that the reason the fuel was dropping straight through the carb was because I have a drain valve in my float bowl and was left open by the factory.
    Learned a little about carbs on YouTube and checked mine out to see this. I was wondering why I had 2 tubes coming off my carb if there's only supposed to be 1 overflow.
    But it's ok. Closed the valve, got the engine started, tested the kill switch, tuned the idol, let it warm up, and took it around the block.
    Really excited, was my first time on 2 wheels motor assisted, thanks for the help guys, when I run into any problems I'll come back to look around.
  11. bakaneko

    bakaneko Active Member

    last possible thing to do is to adjust the mixture screw to maximize performance over the largest RPM band possible. it comes covered with a brass plug that you have to remove. the brass plug is furthest to the left looking at the side with the idle screw. this site has a good review of how to adjust.
  12. Horsem4n

    Horsem4n New Member

    Oh, thanks man, I'll check it out.
  13. skyash

    skyash Active Member

    Thay do go better with time I haven't started my One for 4/5 months and after a couple of pulls it started just fine and go's like I never stopped riding it fantastic little engine
  14. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    Yes, with a 4G transfer case they are great.
    You have the junk chain drive transfer case with no adjustment.
    It will do you awhile until the chains get loose and fail.

    The good news is when you are sick of dinking with it you can replace it with belt drive 4G made specifically for the HS clutch attached engine and never dink with it again.
  15. Horsem4n

    Horsem4n New Member

    Oh yeah? The bikeberry transfer case is a bit better than the bone dry welded together fair, but the belt ones just look plain cool.
    I get up to 20mph at 7300rpm with the 48 tooth sprocket. Wonder if with the belt drive one would be any faster before I start buying smaller rear drive sprockets.

    But I feel like I have to get a front disk brake first. Should just be able to take it off another one of my mountain bikes. Just need a caliper mount.
  16. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    That depends entirely on what gear ratio your transfer case has as belt or chain matters little with that, longevity and ease of maintenance is what matters to me.

    And ya, you can do some fun things with the cover over the 4G..



    Just get a new front fork with a disc mount on it.
  17. darwin

    darwin Well-Known Member

    Don't forget to make sure the fork mounts fit the caliper your going to use. Throw in a rim/hub to mount a rotor also.