Need ideas

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by BAZZA614, Feb 8, 2014.

  1. BAZZA614

    BAZZA614 Member

    ive had a change of mind and wanting a new bicycle.what bike should i get that is kinda cheap $100-$200 and reliable(dont have to worry about spokes bend.or if there is a cheap way around this).thanks in advance

  2. grinningremlin

    grinningremlin Active Member

    When it comes to important stuff (like a bike holding your life in it's hands) you get what you pay for.Look for Cro-Mo bikes from 1983 to 1994 (Trek-Cannondale-Fuji-Nishiki-GT), most bikes from that era are built with quality in mind, not bottom-line penny-pinch cheap outs.It may be a used bike, but it will be new to you, a used $200 bike from that era (in decent condition) is the equivalent to a $1000 modern used bike, and the steel will be better.
  3. butterbean

    butterbean Well-Known Member

    Any frame can crack if abused, and especially after motorizing. I had a huffy cranbrook for over 2 years, and it drug my 285# @ss around with a 66cc 2 smoker like a beast. I replaced the back wheel with a more reliable coaster brake and eventually the front with a worksman drum, and almost every other part of the bike by the time I was done with it, but the frame is solid steel. For $100 or less, even if you do only use the frame it's still a good deal.
  4. BigBlue

    BigBlue Active Member

    All bicycles need periodic maintenance and parts replacement. I have a touring bike (non-motorized) that cost $1K+ and it has been almost been rebuilt with new parts after riding it for 15K miles in the past 3 years. Same with my $1K+ road bike.

    You didn't state what style of bike you are interested in, but in addition to the bikes gremlin referred to, I would recommend a Diamondback hardtail mountain bike. Here in the US, they can be found for under $100 in very good condition. I like them due to having Shimano components.

    A good steel frame is a good foundation to work with.

    Good Luck,

    AKA: BigBlue
  5. butre

    butre Well-Known Member

    In my opinion, buy a cheap big box bike to motorize. The frame will be cheap and heavy steel, which means you'll be able to thrash it without as much chance of breakage, and since you're saving money on the bike you can use that money for upgrades that actually matter, like brakes, nice wheels with 12 gauge spokes, and parts to make the engine more reliable.

    My frame came off a $90 bike from Target, I replaced the wheels with ones with 12 gauge spokes and Shimano hubs, and threw some road calipers on. All for about $250, plus the cost of the engine kit and aftermarket parts
  6. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    scrap yard, walk away with 5 quality frames and various pieces... all it comes down to is knowing quality, reading labels if any, and yeah...taking the time to scavenge...or forage, depending on personality :) pay 20 for a good frame usually, tops. they dont care what they are, its all just scrap to them...

    avoid anything with caliper brakes. especially stamped steel ones. if theres a stack like there is at my local yard...theres no reason you would look at a caliper brake setup other than to figure out how to get that 5 speed hub with disc brake out from under it...

    shogun, GT, giant, trek, cannondale, yarda yarda ad nauseum. theres more good names than bad that a list wont ever cover it.

    cro-mo was mentioned.

    if the sticker says 4130 or cro-mo....GRAB IT.

    just be aware that its better to braze cro-mo unless you got the right filler rods and can oxy/tig weld... its an alloy steel, and does need correct welding procedures, as well as post weld treatment.

    hi ten will do, but avoid any really cheap n nasty frames.... but on that token...usually the cheap frames are great, especially if you plan on chopping anything...its all the attachments that can find upgrade parts at the scrapyard too :) brake levers, alloy cranksets, you name it, theyve got it...
  7. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    oh. one thing i look out for. seat stays. on certain lightweight bikes, mostly racers...the seat stays dont butt up hard agains the seat tube, but are merely tacked on either side. strong enough as is, but not so good with an engine attached.

    obviously, having the seat stays solidly and firmly connected to the seat tube is important.

    dropouts, the thicker the better.

    chainstay and seat stays... you want as much clearance between these and the wheel as possible, regardless of engine used... unless you doing friction drive. some frames tend to bow in just to look sexy...dont be tempted.

    and larger frames tend to cut vibration more than the tight and squeezy frames.

    most people will say leave alloy frames alone unless you know what your doing. the ones that say they use them, dont know what theyre doing :jester:
  8. darwin

    darwin Well-Known Member

    Go to a pawn shop you can get a quality bike for a good price. Most I've seen have a lot to choose from too. They usually don't buy wally bikes because there's not a lot of profit there and they take up valuable space.
  9. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

    The OP is 13 years old. I don't think he'll be welding his own frame, lol. :jester:

    The GT Timberline might look right if going by these guidelines, but IMO it's one to avoid.. Sticker says "Nitanium" which I think is b.s. speak for High Tensile steel. I cracked the headtube right off mine in the mid/late 1990s. Got it rewelded with a huge gusset though.
    I think a mid '90s steel lugged frame might be a good frame.. considering you can't easily see if it's 4130, Reynolds 525 or 853 or whatever but you can easily see lugs.
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2014
  10. BAZZA614

    BAZZA614 Member

    a big thanks to everyone who replied,the reason ive taken so long to reply is my laptop has been mucking up but now have that under control.thanks again
  11. keatonx

    keatonx Member

    Hey, I started brazing/welding when I was 13:jester: