Need information about V brakes

[45u]

Know very little about them. When they say 82mm reach is that from the center of the pivot to the center of the pads? Do they make different pads for alloy wheels over steel wheels?
Thanks
Jeff

 

[Frankenstein]

Yes, that's the meaning of the reach. Generally the pads are exactly the same regardless of the rim type. If you have aluminum rims then spring for better pads that don't hold onto grit and crap because if they do they will tend to grind the aluminum away rather easily, resulting in blowouts and/or worse

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

No, you can place the pads at different levels around about 20mm 5/8" slot to match up with the variance in wheel position that you always get with single speed horizontal dropouts bikes. Reach is arm length. Pivot to cable. Affects the tyre/ fender clearance and leverage. Been seeing v brakes on 3" tyre bikes in recent forum posts. 85mm reach minus about 25mm for the rim/ pad position would not adequately clear a 60mm tyre. It might clear a fender 59mm above the rim edge but the more the arms stick outward after you set the pads, the less tyre/fender height they can clear.. Still have to have room for the noodle holder. If you want to know how to set them up the good way not the big store way I will post in bicycle maintenance section.

Chrome plated steel (cruiser?) or nickel plated alloy bmx rims would prefer you use softer compound for effectiveness, transparent pads to keep the shine. My ears would prefer you just use alloy rims, lol. They all (pad types on chrome/nickel squeal horribly and I just hate that. Chrome rims are not not not a good surface for a rim brake in wet/dew. Tangential cuts to the pad surface might help but not enough IMO. The chrome will wear and flake eventually.. Doubt that they would outlast alloy due to that.. If you buy alloy rims without a machined brake surface then you can still use v brakes on a lot of anodized rims, depending on construction; but you shouldn't use them on powder coated unless you can sand the pc off first with wet n dry jammed over the pads.

The braking surface should/usually have a wear line or dots on it so you know when to replace it.

 

[45u]

These are the wheels I am using and do not want to eat them up. I have front disc.
Thanks all for the input
Jeff

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

What is the braking surface made of? What are those cool looking wheels made of too (off topic, just wondering!)?
Can you find Avid Arch Rival v brakes? They have a built in brake booster (arch brace).

 

[45u]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/282107616358?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[Frankenstein]

In light of the post after me, I suppose I retract my statements lol.. Always felt a pad was a pad was a pad...

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Okay cool, standard brake pads that come with the brakes will be perfectly good. I'm sure you will get decent v brakes. A brake booster (or Avid Arch Rival with it built in) will prevent any flex, twisting or squeal that comes from the twisting.. Your frame isn't hi-ten anyway but idk what those frames are like with Vs. They have a lot of power to flex the seatstays and are sharper with a booster although on the rear it doesn't always make a difference really unless there was a problem.

 

[45u]

This is the caliper mount I am running. I need to machine a little off the mount to get it dead center about .060 to .090.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272033449982?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

In light of the post after me, I suppose I retract my statements lol.. Always felt a pad was a pad was a pad...

Lol in light of the one after mine I needent have even mentioned chrome rims. I hate chrome rims anyway lol.