Clutch New 48cc Engine, clutch noise

[happycheapskate]

Can I put a thin o-ring or some plumbing teflon tape here? I don't think its leaking through here, but I want to make sure its on good and has a consistent air seal. ( I plan to use this bike all the time for a commuting vehicle. )

How far away from the engine can this carb be and work right? (like for modifications, can one make a longer pipe to move the carb, so its aimed to the right, or under the seat?

 

[AussieSteve]

Steve....Very nice drawing...so right you are. Actually if one takes the carburetor apart all this we are describing will/should become much clearer.

Yep. Once you pull one apart and think about what everything does, it's dead easy. I've owned bikes with 1,2,3 and 4 cylinders for 40 years and all their carbs were basically the same. The only difference here is no idle mixture screw.

(Thanks for the compliment on the sketch. I drew it for the other thread a couple of weeks ago, to clarify this issue.)

... Steve

 

[Al.Fisherman]

The longer the intake manifold the more that the venturi needs to work. Keep in mind the air is sucked into the engine and not forced. The more that the mixture travels through a imperfect path. Yes the manifold can be extended but how much I don't know. Depending on the engine...we call this trial and error. One size does not fit all. I'm running OEM except for a few modifications. I took my intake and rolled up some sandpaper and smoothed the inside. My only mods are.. hardware, head gasket, boost bottle, spark plug, spark plug wire, clutch roller, twin brake handle, and a engine bracket to eliminate engine twist on the frame.

 

[AussieSteve]

Can I put a thin o-ring or some plumbing teflon tape here? I don't think its leaking through here, but I want to make sure its on good and has a consistent air seal. ( I plan to use this bike all the time for a commuting vehicle. )

[xIMG].........[x/IMG]

How far away from the engine can this carb be and work right? (like for modifications, can one make a longer pipe to move the carb, so its aimed to the right, or under the seat?

This is a thread on a clutch problem, not a carby problem. You really should search and post appropriately. The 'o' ring issue is a very old one. There are many posts on this. I use Permatex non-hardening gasket sealant smeared on the end of the inlet tube when I fit the carb.

... Steve

 

[happycheapskate]

Ok I was mean. You do help with stuff so you must be nice.

scratch-----

Sorry, grumpy. I'll quit asking you questions.

It sounds like you guys helped him with his clutch problem, and I liked your idea about the fiber washer. I'm no fan of yours though. ---------

 

[AussieSteve]

Sorry, grumpy. I'll quit asking you questions.

It sounds like you guys helped him with his clutch problem, and I liked your idea about the fiber washer. I'm no fan of yours though.

My reply wasn't a personal attack. It was only some good advice, (I hope). Part of the purpose of these threads is so that in future when people search for an answer for a specific problem, they can look them up by topic and then read a (hopefully) helpful thread on the subject.
If a thread is cluttered by heaps of other stuff pertaining to everything else under the Sun, it's very hard to follow.
It is also suggested at the top of each forum that you search before posting.
Also, if you start a thread especially related to your questions, more people will read it and respond.
Again, no personal offense intended.... Steve

 

[Al.Fisherman]

Actually guys...Clutch problem questions don't belong in this section at all. It sure would make searching for a subject if the subjects were in the proper section. That is the biggest problem I found about this forum as a noob.

 

[AussieSteve]

Actually guys...Clutch problem questions don't belong in this section at all. It sure would make searching for a subject if the subjects were in the proper section. That is the biggest problem I found about this forum as a noob.

No argument there. I didn't even notice that this wasn't the 'Frame Mounted Drive Trains' section.
I've done the same in the past.
This thread will probably be moved.

... Steve

 

[wrinkledoggi]

Clutch shudder and noise

Thanks guys for all the helpful input, here's where it all stands now:
1.) the carb is fine, it's a done deal, not gonna mess with it
2.) I have done all the adjustments that there are to do, on both ends of the cable AND to the clutch itself, and it still shudders fiercely, most especially during accelleration, and less so at an even speed. Accompanied by horrible whining that "just don't sound right" to me
Mark

 

[AussieSteve]

Thanks guys for all the helpful input, here's where it all stands now:
1.) the carb is fine, it's a done deal, not gonna mess with it
2.) I have done all the adjustments that there are to do, on both ends of the cable AND to the clutch itself, and it still shudders fiercely, most especially during accelleration, and less so at an even speed. Accompanied by horrible whining that "just don't sound right" to me
Mark

There isn't a simpler clutch anywhere, so there isn't much to go wrong.
Mine only shudders while it's slipping, but once fully engaged the shudder goes away.
When rolling with the clutch disengaged, ie downhill, there's usually also heaps of noise due to the clutch plates and drive gear rattling loosely. Those parts rely on clutch pressure to keep them tight and true.
In this case, if it's shuddering and making that whining noise with the clutch engaged, (released), it really sounds like your clutch is slipping. Are you positive that it's engaging fully?
After a ride, feel the clutch cover and see if it feels hotter than the magneto cover. There shouldn't be too much difference. If the clutch is slipping, things will get hot quickly.
The other possibilities are that the nut holding the clutch on is loose or the woodruff key on the clutch shaft might have sheared.
At this stage, I'd recommend removing all RHS clutch parts for a visual inspection.

... Steve