Nothing over 35mph on the "back to stock" set up with the 60v 35ah battery, then the wind came along and blew the bike down a hill
now that battery is toast, but the power climbing hills and just right out of the gate taking off was really awesome, in my opinion.
I may notice the drop after higher speeds eh? But the hils are really where i want the power to go to.
35mph is the highest speed limit where i ride at going down to 20mph in most of the area though, but alot of crazy hills.
If you're using a 60v controller the voltage cut off will mess you up if switching to a 48v battery, the cut off on a 60v controller is between 50-55 v and the peak voltage of a 48v battery is 56 v so once the 48v battery drops 1-5 v it will shut down leaving the majority of charge unused and very little mileage. A 48v controller cuts off at 41-42 v which would pull a 60v battery down to low past the point of recovery and kill it fast!
If you're using a 60v controller the voltage cut off will mess you up if switching to a 48v battery, the cut off on a 60v controller is between 50-55 v and the peak voltage of a 48v battery is 56 v so once the 48v battery drops 1-5 v it will shut down leaving the majority of charge unused and very little mileage. A 48v controller cuts off at 41-42 v which would pull a 60v battery down to low past the point of recovery and kill it fast!
I noticed around town in the bike shop/shops that they have ebikes, 500w and 750w.
Rode one and there is no comparrison to even my little ebike, theirs only go 15 to 20mph. The cost starts at $2500 and goes up to $3800 lol
So, a 1000w 48v 20ah system on a 26" bike, with a battery for the 750w (on road) and a battery for the 1000w (off road they say lol) might cost $800 or less to build.
Could sell then for $1200 to $1700?.... giving the buyer the option to cruise with the bigger battery or not....does this make sense?