New bike doesn't start

Ya when the cover is off on the clutch side you will physically see it not turning over or partially turning over when pedaling and dropping the clutch...you can confirm with taking the plug out and turning over and then with plug in, to see the difference if it is just slipping enough to create not enough rpm's to get running..

Your flooding and possibly plug is fouled and won't spark to burn that fuel running through your system all the way through to the exhaust, sorry to see your having that issue....make sure your choke is off by taking the air filter off and making sure lever is in the right position to be open ..even try to start with air cleaner off as well...and attempt to start with choke off...throttle open...If trying to start it repeatedly with choke on it got too much fuel and has propably fouled the plug and too much fuel in the system....Good Luck Partner..
Do I have to buy a new plug? And what do I do if my engine is flooded?
 
You are able to clean it up with a wire brush and putting a flame to the plug and the insulator part of plug to evaporate the contaminants, even some brake cleaner could absorb some of the oil/gas on the plug....you can use a lighter to burn some of the contaminants in a pinch to possibly get it clean enough to work....the ceramic insulator acts like a sponge so to speak and can absorb some of the oil gas mixture and create the fouled plug....I've heard of some folks actually putting the plugs in the oven at low heat to "dry" them out...better to match up a new plug for a few bucks at local autoparts store....and again I've seen people flood their bikes with the choke...so check that status and even start with air cleaner off if need be to get you runnin initially....I know it sucks all put together and not running. good luck
 
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Just a side note that you want to see how much fuel is flowing, and that is not a carb issue and it ends up being something strange like a stuck float causing excessive fuel flow....this is just a thought if you manage the ignition and rule that out..just something to keep an eye out for...
 
# 1. How to Adjust Clutch if signs of slipping or squealing is encountered: A) Disengage clutch by pulling handle bar clutch lever inward and lock into catch lock. B) Remove right side engine clutch cover and remove small locking screw on center *Clutch Adjust Nut. C) Pull clutch arm on left rear engine inward. Back off *Clutch Adjust Nut ¼ turn counterclockwise. D) Release handlebar clutch lever and check for slight 1/16” free-play on engine clutch arm. E) Readjust *Clutch Adjust Nut as required to get required 1/6” clutch arm free play. F) Tighten *Clutch Adjust Nut on clutch plate clockwise until just snug. G) Then re-install small locking screw in outer edge of *Clutch Adjust Nut . Just make sure that when you adjust your clutch that it rolls relatively freely when clutch lever is pulled in lock position....
not really how to do it

look on board for about 100 threads of real step by step cable.clutch adjustment
 
clutch1.jpg
If you have 1/16 play at the clutch arm you should be good with cable not being too tight, if too tight the clutch would slip but that would mean your clutch cable was still holding the clutch in a little bit at the arm..now if you were to take the clutch cover off you'll see the phillips head lock screw that prevents the butterfly nut from spinning on the clutch plate which in turn that butterfly nut sets your clutch clearance....I believe turning the nut clockwise will give closer tolerance and tighten the clutch up...you can take the lock screw off and pull your clutch lever in and spin the butterfly nut one or two notches for the lock screw to go back in it's threaded hole, then roll the bike with the clutch lever still in and see if it still rolls....I generally set the clutch with the clutch lever in the locked position and turn that butterfly nut till I can't roll the bike and turn it back till it just rolls without and friction from the clutch....put that lock screw back in and roll on...Actually they call it a flower nut instead of butterfly nut...here's a pic...
 
procedure is: disengage clutch lever, adjust cable - lock clutch lever, adjust flower nut to tightest notch that does not try to turn small gear when bike is rolled - disengage clutch lever, check cable adjustment - the amount of 'grab' a clutch will have is dependent on the distance between the locked and unlocked position of the clutch lever (some levers do not have enough distance there (usually the really long levers)
 
Thank you to everyone who replied to my thread. I found the problem to be the CDI, I messaged the seller and he was kind enough to send me a new one and the engine runs like a dream. And yes my carburetor was also not functioning as it should after I tore it a part I found the float bowl anchorage pin was not aligned. And now it runs although starting is a pain, riding has never been so entertaining. My cousin will be pleased. I can post photos if you all would like to see.
 
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