New build: china 50cc.

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Hey so my Briggs 3HP rigg had to be torn down as well for the Electra Amsterdam...

So while that's out for rebuild I have decided on purchasing a China girl kit due to its only going to cost me $85 USD and in honor of my experiences with NEXT during the early 1999-2003 era I've concluded that this bike will survive a rugged build.

I have found another bike for $15.00 provided that the owner holds it til my payday..

Screenshot_20171101-195250.png


I think this bike will hold up well as well for maintain an investment.

The only downfall with next to my knowledge is that the handle bars are cheaply made.


They tend to strip or loose tensile strength....


What gearing for the rear sprocket do you recommend?
 
44 gear, usually good starting point, maybe just use whatever showed to work on your other bikes.

The straight bars are uncomfortable anyway, change them to something like what huffy uses on their beach cruisers, also drill a 1/8 hole into the bar through the headset arm, the part with the bolt that tightens them in place, put a good self tap in that for sheet steel. Will not roll out of place, you can also put aluminum foil shims in it to help maintain a good snug fit.

If the other bike you see is nicer in your opinion then buy it, 15 bucks ain't bad for a bulk purchase of spare parts to tinker/fix other bike with..
 
44 gear, usually good starting point, maybe just use whatever showed to work on your other bikes.

The straight bars are uncomfortable anyway, change them to something like what huffy uses on their beach cruisers, also drill a 1/8 hole into the bar through the headset arm, the part with the bolt that tightens them in place, put a good self tap in that for sheet steel. Will not roll out of place, you can also put aluminum foil shims in it to help maintain a good snug fit.

If the other bike you see is nicer in your opinion then buy it, 15 bucks ain't bad for a bulk purchase of spare parts to tinker/fix other bike with..


Yeah I could swap my Amsterdam bars with the solid tube one and get a bender and bend the mtb bars to adapt to my Amsterdam kind of like cafe racer bars. Decided to name the new bike dart.


My other bikes latest photo half painted.
IMAG0192.jpg
IMAG0166.jpg



Going to gave to stock up on new tires some detail to add in I do know seracs my preferred tire as its foldable and has a very durable side wall good for off roading...

not that I will be off roading, i would like to make some spiked snow tires out the set it comes with as they would only qualify for winter beaters.
 
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Nice view... Good place to ride? I like the look of that bike, but yes bars like that are nice and comfy. Zip ties on the bars reminds me of trying out putting hot-hands on my handlebars just to see if it work, it did and one of the officers who pulled me over once thought it to be a pretty cool (rather warm) idea.

Anyway I wouldn't bother bending bars though if you feel like it then maybe why not, I extended my handlebars by taking a 6 inch piece of steel tube that fit very snug inside the handlebar tubing, 3 inches of handlebar taken from a spare pair of bars is pressed/hammered until the end of the tube matched up to the end of the 3 inch bar piece. That is then jammed into the end of the bars to extend the bars 3 inches on each side and still have the same outside diameter and easy to clean the seam with a bit of file or sandpaper.

That's a joint that could also be easily soldered with a torch and silver bearing plumbing solder so the parts will resist nearly all accidental separation, when it comes to soldering steel parts the closer the 2 parts mate the stronger the bond, in fact a strange quirk of that type of bond is the less solder between the 2 parts the more resilient the mate is against shearing, and starts approaching the strength of an actual steel welded seam, pretty crazy in engineering terms how a bond made with silver is capable of being multitudes stronger than the silver alloy bond should be.

What's the square tubing on the rear rack for?
 
Nice view... Good place to ride? I like the look of that bike, but yes bars like that are nice and comfy. Zip ties on the bars reminds me of trying out putting hot-hands on my handlebars just to see if it work, it did and one of the officers who pulled me over once thought it to be a pretty cool (rather warm) idea.

Anyway I wouldn't bother bending bars though if you feel like it then maybe why not, I extended my handlebars by taking a 6 inch piece of steel tube that fit very snug inside the handlebar tubing, 3 inches of handlebar taken from a spare pair of bars is pressed/hammered until the end of the tube matched up to the end of the 3 inch bar piece. That is then jammed into the end of the bars to extend the bars 3 inches on each side and still have the same outside diameter and easy to clean the seam with a bit of file or sandpaper.

That's a joint that could also be easily soldered with a torch and silver bearing plumbing solder so the parts will resist nearly all accidental separation, when it comes to soldering steel parts the closer the 2 parts mate the stronger the bond, in fact a strange quirk of that type of bond is the less solder between the 2 parts the more resilient the mate is against shearing, and starts approaching the strength of an actual steel welded seam, pretty crazy in engineering terms how a bond made with silver is capable of being multitudes stronger than the silver alloy bond should be.

What's the square tubing on the rear rack for?

Yeah Alki Beach, WA is a nice view for a builder but that place was also the birthplace of the build.

The tubing was for additional support, Electra Amsterdam's a very expensive reproduction bike costing around 2 grand before tax but they are known to have crappy rack support quality vs stock 60s Schwinn which is why I tore it all down...


The main reason I tore it down because the welds split one side, after disassembling I also had noticed the tubing on thre rack had split as well...

To keep the build similar or the same toward the original concept of the build I would have to do it like Schwinn in the earlier years and weld two pieces of hard iron on the back then drop a new thicker steel gauge plate...

I like it on the back as police will know I'm not carrying a modded out beast.

I talked to a guy at ace hardware who liked my build and quoted "it's a 70s model Briggs." If anything I'll probably spruce her up with a nice air filter and exhaust system to achieve a proper roar..



But as far as the China girl goes,

that's going to be modded to the nut, bolts, butts, and guts if I can find a rev limiter I could add in a switch that won't allow the engine to pass a certain speed meaning faster off the line.... but when it boils down getting to work... it will be full effect up hill.

There's a few critics of my work but hey there is flaws in every ride professional or novice but only the builder knows of it....


Take notice "GM HAD FAULTY INGITION SWITCHES from Delphi since 93-4 to 2015 and claimed it was replaced and lied to millions of customers leading to massive recalls."

They also claim to be the best seller....

If this is true look how frequent they do commercials vs the Ford motor company...


Ford has not bailed out or had recalls nowhere nearly as high as Chevy.

Furthermore they don't even have to advertise cause they came first, first to sell to Germany as well to the Nazi sqazzys during the war no offense if there are any here...

"Not racist nor do I prefer to take sides, black, white, red, blue or alien green."

Just saying also take note the rancheros came first then the elcahellno
 
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