New ebike build

That kit appears to not have the variable PAS levels. Some of the cheaper kits like mine the PAS is set to max amps meaning its like having full throttle on a gas engine all the time. This makes the PAS function basically useless so I rely on the throttle. While its not the end of the world, PAS is one of the main points of ebikes and allow you to free up your hands for brakes or the gas throttle. If the kit has a LCD display it usually has the different PAS levels . So, I would really think about that and see how that fits into your needs. I imagine that this might be okay for you. Going up a hill, I imagine you would open the electric throttle and then the gas throttle. But, you can get the different level PAS function for $50 more and if you ever need it.

For the battery, I am skeptical of those that don't list any of the specifications of the battery pack or manufacturer. I have seen two type of lithium ion batteries out there for ebikes, the regular grade and high discharge rated batteries. The regular grade suffer from a nasty drop of in capacity with high amp draw, but are cheap. I have a 36V 17.6Ah 600Wh pack for $200 and I generally do not draw high amps except on hills.

AH is amp hour and a measure of capacity. Most people use watt hour (Wh) to normalize battery capacities. Power or watt (W) is determined by voltage(V) * amps(A). The BMS on a battery pack determines the amps that you can draw. Check that number and multiply by your voltage.

I think the questions you need to ask are

1. Do you want a variable PAS system? This will let you pedal and power the electric motor at the same time.
2. Are you only using the electric motor for hills? If so, you might not need that strong of a battery pack and can go with lower grade lithium ion battery pack.
3. Got to find out the rated and maximum discharge amps (A) for the battery pack when buying. This will tell you how much power you can draw.
4. Got to find out the type of lithium cells making up the pack. Low grade isnt bad if you are using it only on hills but if you want to really go all out on the power then higher discharge rated cells might be needed.
 
First of all the Ah of the bike just means the capacity of the battery. Theoretically a 20 Ah battery will go twice the distance of its 10 Ah counterpart. It will also take twice as long to charge. I've noticed that batterys tend to take a much larger and quicker charge while the capacity is low in a mode called Constant Current then it tapers off quite a bit as the battery starts to get near complete with Constant voltage. That battery that you posted has the output listed at 54.6 Volts at 2.0 Amps am I freaking reading that correctly? V*I=P so that is it is rated at 109.2 watts constant. I want to know the peak rating it but if the reviewers aren't lying then it seems like it may be a good battery.

From a dead stop to full acceleration, my bike pulls 19-20 amps easily about 52 volts and it seems to pull slightly more as the voltage goes down. There's not many batteries that I'd trust to that kind of abuse.
 
First of all the Ah of the bike just means the capacity of the battery. Theoretically a 20 Ah battery will go twice the distance of its 10 Ah counterpart. It will also take twice as long to charge. I've noticed that batterys tend to take a much larger and quicker charge while the capacity is low in a mode called Constant Current then it tapers off quite a bit as the battery starts to get near complete with Constant voltage. That battery that you posted has the output listed at 54.6 Volts at 2.0 Amps am I freaking reading that correctly? V*I=P so that is it is rated at 109.2 watts constant. I want to know the peak rating it but if the reviewers aren't lying then it seems like it may be a good battery.

From a dead stop to full acceleration, my bike pulls 19-20 amps easily about 52 volts and it seems to pull slightly more as the voltage goes down. There's not many batteries that I'd trust to that kind of abuse.

Yeah, I noticed that too. I wasn't sure if it was a mistake. A battery pack not advertising the brand/type of batteries used or any discharge specs is suspect imo. What kind of ebike do you have and what is your range/riding requirements?
 
I have a Mongoose Status 2.6 mountain bike with a BBSHD 1000w mid drive kit. Powered by DIY 130 cell 13s10p battery. Technically it is a 10s10p +3s10p pack wired in series 48v nominal but fully charge usually settles around 54.X volts.

Unfortunately the furthest that I've ridden straight was under 30 miles and I knew that it had much more based on the gauge and voltage reading.

I posted some pictures here https://motoredbikes.com/threads/second-ebike-build.53344/
 
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