New engine help

Shannon

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Nov 14, 2017
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So I bought a new engine the seeutek pk80 and finally got it mounted and settled up I put gas in it peddle try start it it didn't start so peddle again and I hear a thumb the back tire freezes and I almost died lmao could anyone help me maybe I missed something
 
So I bought a new engine the seeutek pk80 and finally got it mounted and settled up I put gas in it peddle try start it it didn't start so peddle again and I hear a thumb the back tire freezes and I almost died lmao could anyone help me maybe I missed something
It is likely that the chain is caught on the casing around the engine sprocket. I had the exact same problem when I first mounted up my kit. A loose chain and bad wheel alignment causes this. Make sure your rear wheel is straight with even gaps on each side of the wheel in relation to the frame. Also make sure your chain is not too loose. I filed down some of the clutch lever side casing to make some more room for the chain just for good measure.
 
If it's the above you can fill the area with epoxy that the chain catches in, some users I think use silicone to do the same thing but I just don't think that's a good material for that application. If the chain is stuck you might be able to roll the wheel backwards to unstuck it rather than removing the drive gear cover.

Pictures might help people guess if your chain should need a trimming as well.. Lots of things could be wrong so you never know what someone might be able to point out.
 
This is the type of thing Frankenstein is referring to (but my version. He might do it differently).

I used cardboard cereal box to make the dam to hold back the epoxy. I should have smeared some epoxy on it and let dry to seal the dam before pouring the whole lot in, then I'd have had less leaking out around my dam.. but I didn't, I rushed it. Still it worked. The bit of cardboard left behind isn't a problem (and i scraped most of it off later anyway), but it is still important to pay attention to getting every other aspect of the chain function correct before trying to start.
Despite what the engine kit sellers say, I don't think you can/should just buy a kit and simply "mount to bicycle". The missing step is build your own engine system using some of the parts from the kit and all your knowledge from the weeks of studying the forums. IMHO or whatever

 
So I bought a new engine the seeutek pk80 and finally got it mounted and settled up I put gas in it peddle try start it it didn't start so peddle again and I hear a thumb the back tire freezes and I almost died lmao could anyone help me maybe I missed something
I agree when setting the tensioner always set the lower first by standing behind the bike checking it's alignment should not touch on either side of the roller look at your rear sprocket then at the roller from behind and you can see a perfect alignment.


After setting the lower bolts grab the tensioner like a cig between two fingers and tighten it down while pressing up.

if the rear screw behind the bolt free spins it's OK, once it's snug grab it and use a ratchet and jiggle til firm then take a flat tip and and make one more final turn I always use the single finger method when something's tight to feel torque unless my torque wrench can fit on it.
 
Last thing I can say I know there are skeptics before you fire always pour a tiny bit of two stroke oil in the bore before starting I in particular pour some in with the plug out the night before installing a Chain so when you feed the chain it will genially lube the cylinder.

If you let it sit over night make sure the plugs put back on before you scadattle
 
This is the type of thing Frankenstein is referring to (but my version. He might do it differently).

I used cardboard cereal box to make the dam to hold back the epoxy. I should have smeared some epoxy on it and let dry to seal the dam before pouring the whole lot in, then I'd have had less leaking out around my dam.. but I didn't, I rushed it. Still it worked. The bit of cardboard left behind isn't a problem (and i scraped most of it off later anyway), but it is still important to pay attention to getting every other aspect of the chain function correct before trying to start.
Despite what the engine kit sellers say, I don't think you can/should just buy a kit and simply "mount to bicycle". The missing step is build your own engine system using some of the parts from the kit and all your knowledge from the weeks of studying the forums. IMHO or whatever

Yeah that's what I'm talking about. Rtv works well in conjunction with some duct tape keeping it in place as the rtv cures. Even then it's no absolute promise it won't leak. I could see using one of those little tubes of kitchen silicone to lay a good bead to keep the epoxy in.

I've gone and done the small metal working tool and a small butane torch deal with the 5 minute stuff to manually shape the epoxy. The real key is to warm up the spot a bit before putting the epoxy in, which is best if stirred really vigorously for about a minute or 2, this way the stuff will set pretty quick right after putting it on the spot. Mark with a sharpie so you know where to keep the wall. If you wait till the right second the weld gets that play dough like consistency and you can trim it quickly with an exacto. Waiting until afterwards just use a sanding drum on a dremel for touch up..

What's up with your epoxy? It looks like Elmer's glue or semenal fluid or something. I've played around with the white putty you knead, the jb waterweld, it does have some interesting strength to it I've noticed, it could probably be used effectively since it's just a simple barrier. Would be easier to apply too :)
 
Yeah that's what I'm talking about. Rtv works well in conjunction with some duct tape keeping it in place as the rtv cures. Even then it's no absolute promise it won't leak. I could see using one of those little tubes of kitchen silicone to lay a good bead to keep the epoxy in.

I've gone and done the small metal working tool and a small butane torch deal with the 5 minute stuff to manually shape the epoxy. The real key is to warm up the spot a bit before putting the epoxy in, which is best if stirred really vigorously for about a minute or 2, this way the stuff will set pretty quick right after putting it on the spot. Mark with a sharpie so you know where to keep the wall. If you wait till the right second the weld gets that play dough like consistency and you can trim it quickly with an exacto. Waiting until afterwards just use a sanding drum on a dremel for touch up..

What's up with your epoxy? It looks like Elmer's glue or semenal fluid or something. I've played around with the white putty you knead, the jb waterweld, it does have some interesting strength to it I've noticed, it could probably be used effectively since it's just a simple barrier. Would be easier to apply too :)
Yeah idk what's up with the colour, it's really cheap 5 minute epoxy. I did not post a photo of my semenal fluid lol.
It was pretty runny stuff compared with high quality epoxies like JB Weld, but just stirring the mix well then holding the card down for a couple of minutes did work. The leaking was very minimal and didn't cause any problems. In the end I didn't end up regretting leaving the chain on to hold the card in the right position.
I just should have greased the card or something like that to prevent the epoxy sticking to it; but I gave it a scrape after I took the photo and got most of the cardboard fibres removed.
 
Yeah idk what's up with the colour, it's really cheap 5 minute epoxy. I did not post a photo of my semenal fluid lol.
It was pretty runny stuff compared with high quality epoxies like JB Weld, but just stirring the mix well then holding the card down for a couple of minutes did work. The leaking was very minimal and didn't cause any problems. In the end I didn't end up regretting leaving the chain on to hold the card in the right position.
I just should have greased the card or something like that to prevent the epoxy sticking to it; but I gave it a scrape after I took the photo and got most of the cardboard fibres removed.

15 minute epoxy sucks check this out,

I remember a time where our blazer lock broke and it kept falling off nothing would hold it.

Now this is a working tip from my ladies of my house hold who are crafty..


Get some of that 15 minute epoxied mix it with crazy glue, and fingernail glue..
That sob... can hold a tree stump together.

All jb products suck under certain temps how ever I stand pretty firm with steel stick....


Good bond can be tapped and drilled. I used it on a 70s mopar rv cast exhaust.
 
15 minute epoxy sucks check this out,

I remember a time where our blazer lock broke and it kept falling off nothing would hold it.

Now this is a working tip from my ladies of my house hold who are crafty..


Get some of that 15 minute epoxied mix it with crazy glue, and fingernail glue..
That sob... can hold a tree stump together.

All jb products suck under certain temps how ever I stand pretty firm with steel stick....


Good bond can be tapped and drilled. I used it on a 70s mopar rv cast exhaust.
This isn't being used as a bond. It's purely a block of material to fill up the unnecessary space inside the sprocket cover, so that the chain cannot skip, or ride up on the tops of the teeth, or kink and jam up inside the case.
 
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