New engine kit?

[butre]

that's probably every bit as strong as it was when you got it. u-bolts are strong enough to hold axles in place, why not other parts?

 

[gary55]

that's probably every bit as strong as it was when you got it. u-bolts are strong enough to hold axles in place, why not other parts?

Ain't many things take a beating like a axle tied to a leaf spring on a 4x4, and they hold for longer than the engines use to last.

 

[Frankenstein]

that's probably every bit as strong as it was when you got it. u-bolts are strong enough to hold axles in place, why not other parts?

Well I'm really really hoping that's true, since it's my ass that's going to be on the seat lol...

I think I replaced about a quarter pound of steel with 3-4 pounds of the same stuff, usually that type of math ends up good looking.

 

[p4cm4n]

Alright screw it, I’m joining in on this. Frankenstein, I’m gonna do what you’re doing I think. I’ve been waiting and waiting so I could get a skyhawk but now their out of stock, so maybe it’s time I jump to the bt80.

I’ve also got a sbp kit. What issues have you had so far besides the size where you had to cut? I have a point beach cruiser bike, I’m wondering if my frame will support it easier because of the low dip in the body.

 

[Frankenstein]

Beach cruisers seem to fit that BT80 elegantly, the issues are they just plain don't fit together well, the jackshaft and the motor that is.

The rear mounting bolts don't line up with the holes in the plate or the jackshaft. I think the backing plates which are for support and reinforcement on a standard kit can be skipped in this instance since the rear mount has a large surface area that has the 4 bolts, since I can use 4 of them to make the connection (may use just 3 and depend partially on the upper jackshaft bracket bolt point) and the surface area is so large and that I worked it flat with file in a few places to get the jackshaft as centered as possible on the rear of the motor (not a super huge deal on a jackshaft of course, and especially not so with my out of the ordinary downtube modification.)

I have an odd plate that clamps the jackshaft down and also acts as an alignment type plate by preventing horizontal movement. It works well at this stage, and with a bit of locktite I would say it should hold just fine as long as I make sure parts are fitting truly (like no edges turned up from grinding making a false seat) then I should be ok.

Now that would be the case in a very tight frame for the motor, so I wanted to use the minimal number of links on the output from the motor, which appears to just barely fit 15 like a standard kit set up. Certainly if you had an extra 6 inches of room in a beach cruiser you could make an adapter block from solid aluminum with countersunk bolts to adapt the rear mounting points to an appropriate jackshaft bracket. It would simply mean using more than 15 links on the left side but would be a lot less of a hassle.

I would put pictures up but I'm going to work soon so no time for taking the bolts out of the motor to get the jackshaft apart, but I'll do it another time when I get the chance.

 

[Reply]

Beach cruisers seem to fit that BT80 elegantly, the issues are they just plain don't fit together well, the jackshaft and the motor that is.

The rear mounting bolts don't line up with the holes in the plate or the jackshaft. I think the backing plates which are for support and reinforcement on a standard kit can be skipped in this instance since the rear mount has a large surface area that has the 4 bolts, since I can use 4 of them to make the connection (may use just 3 and depend partially on the upper jackshaft bracket bolt point) and the surface area is so large and that I worked it flat with file in a few places to get the jackshaft as centered as possible on the rear of the motor (not a super huge deal on a jackshaft of course, and especially not so with my out of the ordinary downtube modification.)

I have an odd plate that clamps the jackshaft down and also acts as an alignment type plate by preventing horizontal movement. It works well at this stage, and with a bit of locktite I would say it should hold just fine as long as I make sure parts are fitting truly (like no edges turned up from grinding making a false seat) then I should be ok.

Now that would be the case in a very tight frame for the motor, so I wanted to use the minimal number of links on the output from the motor, which appears to just barely fit 15 like a standard kit set up. Certainly if you had an extra 6 inches of room in a beach cruiser you could make an adapter block from solid aluminum with countersunk bolts to adapt the rear mounting points to an appropriate jackshaft bracket. It would simply mean using more than 15 links on the left side but would be a lot less of a hassle.

I would put pictures up but I'm going to work soon so no time for taking the bolts out of the motor to get the jackshaft apart, but I'll do it another time when I get the chance.

So I’m a little lost on the ‘odd plate’ part, but beside that I think what I got was that contrary to a typical 66cc, whose mount on the seat downtube would be the one, two bolt bracket...the bt80 has a larger surface area and thus 4 bolts would mount. This being the case, you’re not as concerned with the awkward mounting because you have such a large surface area making contact, and room to play with mounting it (engine surface area wise). And also, that given the space that a beach cruiser has, bike length wise (tire to tire, inside the V for mounting) you would just add an aluminum ‘bolt mounting adapter plate’ to accept both the bt80 stock holes, married to the jackshaft forward mounting stock holes.

 

[p4cm4n]

Beach cruisers seem to fit that BT80 elegantly, the issues are they just plain don't fit together well, the jackshaft and the motor that is.

The rear mounting bolts don't line up with the holes in the plate or the jackshaft. I think the backing plates which are for support and reinforcement on a standard kit can be skipped in this instance since the rear mount has a large surface area that has the 4 bolts, since I can use 4 of them to make the connection (may use just 3 and depend partially on the upper jackshaft bracket bolt point) and the surface area is so large and that I worked it flat with file in a few places to get the jackshaft as centered as possible on the rear of the motor (not a super huge deal on a jackshaft of course, and especially not so with my out of the ordinary downtube modification.)

I have an odd plate that clamps the jackshaft down and also acts as an alignment type plate by preventing horizontal movement. It works well at this stage, and with a bit of locktite I would say it should hold just fine as long as I make sure parts are fitting truly (like no edges turned up from grinding making a false seat) then I should be ok.

Now that would be the case in a very tight frame for the motor, so I wanted to use the minimal number of links on the output from the motor, which appears to just barely fit 15 like a standard kit set up. Certainly if you had an extra 6 inches of room in a beach cruiser you could make an adapter block from solid aluminum with countersunk bolts to adapt the rear mounting points to an appropriate jackshaft bracket. It would simply mean using more than 15 links on the left side but would be a lot less of a hassle.

I would put pictures up but I'm going to work soon so no time for taking the bolts out of the motor to get the jackshaft apart, but I'll do it another time when I get the chance.

So I’m a little lost on the ‘odd plate’ part, but beside that I think what I got was that contrary to a typical 66cc, whose mount on the seat downtube would be the one, two bolt bracket...the bt80 has a larger surface area and thus 4 bolts would mount. This being the case, you’re not as concerned with the awkward mounting because you have such a large surface area making contact, and room to play with mounting it (engine surface area wise). And also, that given the space that a beach cruiser has, bike length wise (tire to tire, inside the V for mounting) you would just add an aluminum ‘bolt mounting adapter plate’ to accept both the bt80 stock holes, married to the jackshaft forward mounting stock holes.

 

[Bmdawson85]

I came across this today

Electric start 66cc 2 stroke kit engine looks like a chainsaw motor mixed with a china girl and the mounts are promising double studs front and back
Whos gunna try it first

http://www.bikeberry.com/66-80cc-bullet-train-electric-start-engine-kit-silver.htmlView attachment 72204

I have a few friends that have already bought this motor and say it's 100% more reliable even in cold temperatures. Includes a pull start in case battery or cylinder goes out. Also includes a wide crank assembly as well. I've ordered mine already really looking forward to it. Also have got an entire lighting system hooked up that will connect to extra battery auxiliary plug.

 

[Frankenstein]

I have a few friends that have already bought this motor and say it's 100% more reliable even in cold temperatures. Includes a pull start in case battery or cylinder goes out. Also includes a wide crank assembly as well. I've ordered mine already really looking forward to it. Also have got an entire lighting system hooked up that will connect to extra battery auxiliary plug.

I'm happy to hear that news!

So I’m a little lost on the ‘odd plate’ part, but beside that I think what I got was that contrary to a typical 66cc, whose mount on the seat downtube would be the one, two bolt bracket...the bt80 has a larger surface area and thus 4 bolts would mount. This being the case, you’re not as concerned with the awkward mounting because you have such a large surface area making contact, and room to play with mounting it (engine surface area wise). And also, that given the space that a beach cruiser has, bike length wise (tire to tire, inside the V for mounting) you would just add an aluminum ‘bolt mounting adapter plate’ to accept both the bt80 stock holes, married to the jackshaft forward mounting stock holes.

Sorry I took so long to reply about this plate I've been busy and the day I wanted to upload these pics the site was giving me trouble letting with uploading AND making replies on the forum lol..

This is basically the plate, the holes in the engine mount are wider than stock 66 engines so to keep the engine centered in my frame securely I made this plate that meets up with the jackshaft bracket.
The plate has 2 notches on the under side (left side of the plate in the pic) that keeps the bracket from shifting left or right when bolted down.

These are my replacement to the standard muffler clamp saddle, a 2 part solution that fits in the limited space near the plate and keeps the spacing the same from the seat tube.

Kind of goes in at an angle and slips into place.

On the engine as a test fit for the photo and since been installed in the bike waiting for next modification..

Those are 2 grade 8 or 12 or whatever quarter inch bolts that come through the back of the jackshaft bracket and through the 2 saddle halves that are for clamping the lower part of the bracket to the bike.

Overall it's going good with the set up only my engine sits too high to use my old vertical chain (damn it is a really good one too) so I'll have to order new sprockets (too worn to accept new chain anymore) and get a new chain so I can mount the engine higher for this fit..

 

[mybike]

I have a few friends that have already bought this motor and say it's 100% more reliable even in cold temperatures. Includes a pull start in case battery or cylinder goes out. Also includes a wide crank assembly as well. I've ordered mine already really looking forward to it. Also have got an entire lighting system hooked up that will connect to extra battery auxiliary plug.

I have a few friends that have already bought this motor and say it's 100% more reliable even in cold temperatures. Includes a pull start in case battery or cylinder goes out. Also includes a wide crank assembly as well. I've ordered mine already really looking forward to it. Also have got an entire lighting system hooked up that will connect to extra battery auxiliary plug.

The BT engine is great, and with a shift kit it will be perfect. Bike will be a little on the heavy side compared to a regular CG, but well worth the extra weight.

I just finished this HD build and love this engine (and I have a few bikes with great worked engines). Electric start is bad a$$ as are the lights and horn I have on this build. Engine runs smooth.

I only have about 25 miles on this and just re jetted the carb tonight and did 35 mph GPS verified on my phone and a local speed sign at 6500 RPM on my tach. once broken in I feel will do almost 40 mph.

Have 40 T rear sprocket, take off with no pedal is not bad, hope it improves once broken in as my black bike pulls off the line like a bull with the same sprocket.

Hope the photos show up.