Break In New engine. wont start. Hard to pedal.
- Thread starter Arnold
- Start date
RB55
Active Member
It should be hard to pedal with the clutch engaged; you are cranking the engine! Get up to some speed (about 10-15mph) and suddenly release the clutch, that is how you start these engines.
I know I just got a new one to replace my old one. But with the spark plug out I should be able to push the bike. If I push it with the spark plug in, then I have to pedal to build up compression. But it feels like it has compression build up with or without the spark plug.
The_Aleman
Well-Known Member
Why would you want to cycle the engine without the spark plug in it? That's bad for the CDI among other things. It's also still going to want to draw the fuel/oil mix from the carburetor. Even if you close the petcock, the internals will run dry and generate vacuum and eventually screw something up and you'll prolly be buying another engine because you can't start that one. If you want to move the bike around, pull the clutch lever like the rest of us. The engine should only be cycled when you're trying to run it. If you want to ride the bike without engine running, pull clutch lever and pray the grease on the bucking ball holds up.
To start the bike, make sure petcock is open, set the choke lever from 3/4 to full choke, pull clutch lever and pedal to around 5-10MPH. Release the clutch, pedal hard and give it some throttle at various positions. If it kicks off, pull clutch lever and come to a stop - giving it throttle if necessary to keep it running. Let it run for about 30 seconds, turn off choke, pedal hard and release the clutch lever. Ride around 10-15mins with varying throttle positions so that the engine is fully warmed up. Come to a stop with clutch lever pulled and adjust idle screw until it idles without throttle. Let it cool down for 20 mins or so and ride it again. I do this a few times with 2-strokes when new to heat-cycle them. Always check fuel level before a ride, and it's good practice to check to see if anything on the bike has become loose.
When the engine is cold, it will need some choke. When the engine is warmed up, it shouldn't need choke anymore to start. Avoid engine braking for deceleration, these engines oil themselves under a load. If your engine ever refuses to start, you likely have a fuel delivery problem, dodgy kill switch, blown CDI, bad plug, bad wire or maybe bad luck. Often it's bad treatment that kills these simple little engines. Pedaling around without a spark plug is bad treatment.
To start the bike, make sure petcock is open, set the choke lever from 3/4 to full choke, pull clutch lever and pedal to around 5-10MPH. Release the clutch, pedal hard and give it some throttle at various positions. If it kicks off, pull clutch lever and come to a stop - giving it throttle if necessary to keep it running. Let it run for about 30 seconds, turn off choke, pedal hard and release the clutch lever. Ride around 10-15mins with varying throttle positions so that the engine is fully warmed up. Come to a stop with clutch lever pulled and adjust idle screw until it idles without throttle. Let it cool down for 20 mins or so and ride it again. I do this a few times with 2-strokes when new to heat-cycle them. Always check fuel level before a ride, and it's good practice to check to see if anything on the bike has become loose.
When the engine is cold, it will need some choke. When the engine is warmed up, it shouldn't need choke anymore to start. Avoid engine braking for deceleration, these engines oil themselves under a load. If your engine ever refuses to start, you likely have a fuel delivery problem, dodgy kill switch, blown CDI, bad plug, bad wire or maybe bad luck. Often it's bad treatment that kills these simple little engines. Pedaling around without a spark plug is bad treatment.
I was testing my spark plug. Regardless it should be easy to pedal with no compression. But with or with out it it's extremely hard to pedal
GreasyChris
Well-Known Member
Something is binding or broken or both. Does the engine rotate freely by hand with the chain removed? With the spark plug removed it should rotate freely. If it rotates free without the chain connected then the problem is in the chain alignment. If not it could be in the engine itself. Its best to tear down a new engine and replace the crappy bearings and hardware and inspect what you have. These are made with crappy quality control and its not uncommon to get something that was assembled wrong. Hope that helps you figure it out.
GreasyChris
Well-Known Member
I would remove the clutch gear or bevel gear next and see if it rotates freely. If it still doesn't. You'll have to tear down the engine
RB55
Active Member
Unfortunately, it seems like an engine teardown is the only option for you. It’s pretty tough so if you can’t find the problem relatively soon I recommend you return the kit to eBay or wherever you got it from ASAP. Kinda sucks but you get what you pay for...
Yeah. I'm waiting the 48 hrs and while I'm waiting I was going to try to see if I couldn't fix it
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