New Grubee Skyhawk fitment issues

2stroke

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Hi there everyone!

I've been lurking on the forums for the last few days while waiting for my new Skyhawk 66cc motor to come. It finally came in the mail today and I'm having some issues with certain things fitting just right. Are there any good threads detailing a Skyhawk build? Currently I'm having issues with the ignitor, where the usual mounting spot ahead of the motor is too thick on my bike. I mounted it on the seat post, just above where the chain will go. Would this be a safe spot? Also, is it safe for the wires to be touching the bottom of the motor? I've attached a picture to show what I currently have going on.

Also I've seen some conflicting opinions on whether or not the engine should be torn down and cleaned prior to use. Personally I'm not 100% confident in my ability to put it back together, so is it absolutely necessary to tear these down for a good cleaning and checking the tightness of the hardware inside?
 

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Mount it under the tank. Mounting it behind the engine may cause the unit to warm up, which will increase CDI failure rate, it will also alter the advance and cause poor running or engine damage.

The blue wire cannot touch the frame and should be taped or shinkwrapped to insulate it. Black is ground and totally safe.

Wire's can be mounted along the frame and extended. (Any wire around the same size works)

Very few check tolerance's like me, not very important for the average person but an internal check should be done.

Anything from cigarette butts to washers have been found inside these cheap motors and unless you bought it from a very reputable builder it should be checked.

The easiest way is to just take the cylinder off and check with a flashlight in the crank. If you have a air compressor or shop vac you can clean it easy. A torque wrench will be needed for this and metric socket set. The intake, exhaust are uninstalled, then the sparkplug, then the 4 nut's on top and slowly pull the cylinder. If it feels dry add a few drops of 2 stroke oil before doing this. To reinstall, align the top piston ring ends to the retaining pin, compress it into the cylinder and then the same with the bottom. Metal head gasket next followed by cylinder head and then torque the nuts to 12ft/lb. Re check after 20 miles.
Awesome! Thank you for the quick and detailed reply. I temporarily mounted it under the gas tank with some zip ties, I'll be figuring out a more permanent solution though. So does the blue wire just need to be insulated where it connects to the blue wire from the motor? And thanks for the torque spec and the heads up on some of the stuff that's been found inside, I'll be taking the head off now.
 
I got the head off but I'm a little confused on how to "pull" the piston. The ports visible when the cylinder is all the way down look very clean and well machined, so does that mean I'm good to go?
 
I got the head off but I'm a little confused on how to "pull" the piston. The ports visible when the cylinder is all the way down look very clean and well machined, so does that mean I'm good to go?
Did any of the studs come out when you took the head off? You just lift the cylinder off the piston, to inspect it. Make sure that the pins in the ring grooves are at the back of the engine.
 
Did any of the studs come out when you took the head off? You just lift the cylinder off the piston, to inspect it. Make sure that the pins in the ring grooves are at the back of the engine.
The studs seemed like they were fixed to it. I'll take the head off again in the morning for a proper check. Thanks for the info!
 
The studs seemed like they were fixed to it. I'll take the head off again in the morning for a proper check. Thanks for the info!
While you're at it. look in the ports (intake and exhaust) and see if there is any casting flash, strange looking metal protruding into the opening, especially right where the port enters the cylinder barrel. A lot of times it is never cleaned off, it can be filed off easily.
 
Well after days of searching I found a torque wrench that could do 12ft/lb and pulled the head and cylinder. Looks nice and clean under the piston. Man those rings on the piston were a pain though! Are they supposed to be loose or are mine broken?
 
Well after days of searching I found a torque wrench that could do 12ft/lb and pulled the head and cylinder. Looks nice and clean under the piston. Man those rings on the piston were a pain though! Are they supposed to be loose or are mine broken?
A picture would be good
 
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