New Here/ First Bicycle Engine

From the research I did that was my conclusion, I’m glad to hear one more satisfied riders input though, some people really seem to hate on the iron sleeve engines.

Did yours have the rough marks in the cylinder?
If so what did you do to make fix yoyr up?
Wish I had something to say about that cylinder bore. Looks rough. I'd ask for another from the seller tbh.

The thing is a brake failure at little as 20 mph can cause serious injury.

Do you mean slamming into things at 20 mph?
 
From the research I did that was my conclusion, I’m glad to hear one more satisfied riders input though, some people really seem to hate on the iron sleeve engines.

Did yours have the rough marks in the cylinder?
If so what did you do to make fix yoyr up?
Are you asking if my cylinder wall was rough, or are you asking if the cylinder ports were all rough & jagged?
 
From the research I did that was my conclusion, I’m glad to hear one more satisfied riders input though, some people really seem to hate on the iron sleeve engines.

Did yours have the rough marks in the cylinder?
If so what did you do to make fix yoyr up?
Yeah mine looked like yours, I ran a cylinder hone thru mine to clean it all up, then cleaned cylinder ports up & lightly chamfered the edges of the ports.
 
Yeah mine looked like yours, I ran a cylinder hone thru mine to clean it all up, then cleaned cylinder ports up & lightly chamfered the edges of the ports.
One of those dingleberry honers? I've been wondering if I should do this on my new engine because the crosshatch angles don't look right...
 
One of those dingleberry honers? I've been wondering if I should do this on my new engine because the crosshatch angles don't look right...
No you need to use ridid hone. If you use a flex hone it will mess your cylinder ports up. Also it will just rip a flex hone apart. If you buy a hone buy a rigid hone.
 
Wish I had something to say about that cylinder bore. Looks rough. I'd ask for another from the seller tbh.



Do you mean slamming into things at 20 mph?
One of those dingleberry honers? I've been wondering if I should do this on my new engine because the crosshatch angles don't look right...
When I got it from eBay it was the last one they had, may write them and see what they can do though. Most of the pics I’ve seen of the cylinders on ones people have received have at least one or two spots that look like this.
I think it looks worse in the pic than it is in person but pretty close…
Thank you for the input. I was going to see if I could buff it out with a dremel as the only hone I have is a stone one for my Chevy truck, I may have to order one small enough and put of running it til then.
 
No you need to use ridid hone. If you use a flex hone it will mess your cylinder ports up. Also it will just rip a flex hone apart. If you buy a hone buy a rigid hone.
Thank you for clarifying, I wasn’t sure what type of hone would be best for a 2 stroke, though having used the stone type it would have been my choice just based on the fact I know how to use one.
 
The thing is a brake failure at little as 20 mph can cause serious injury.
I appreciate the concern, though I’m only 33 I’ve had some pretty bad wrecks on a multitude of things with wheels, luckily I’ve always managed to walk away relatively unscathed. If possible avoiding injury would be a plus, after too many years of thinking I was unbreakable I find myself feeling the abuse I have dragged my body through.
I found some rim brakes, front and back should be here by the time I’m getting the engine back together.
 
Are you asking if my cylinder wall was rough, or are you asking if the cylinder ports were all rough & jagged?
I was talking about the cylinder wall which you seem to have figured out… my ports are not bad but I’m still working on cleaning them up then plan to chamfering the edges with a file and dremel.
Speaking of the ports though, the iron sleeve on mine is pretty well lined up but there are still the lips when it goes from the port to the sleeve. I know some of that will be removed when I eventually work on porting it (widening/ ex. raising/ int. lowering) but what’s left behind did you leave a lip or fill with JB weld?
Thank you again for the help.
 
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