New life for a worn drive roller

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by rawly old, Jan 7, 2012.

  1. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    The problem with your typical diamond-checked drive roller is that
    the tiny points intended to grip the tire wear quickly down to lit
    rounded nubs while the groove between fill in with rubber & grime
    to the point where it's slipping a quarter turn every revolution.
    Fear not! You can make your old roller perform better,(wet or dry),
    than when you bought it. Check this attachment.
    By cutting deeper grooves to make new larger diamonds you can
    create a roller that will last longer grip better even in wet weather.
    I used a dremel with a small diamond wheel from
    They carry a wide range of dremel bits a very reasonable prices.
    If you don't have a dremel a hacksaw would work provided you
    are careful. I've highlighted grooves for better resolution.
    They should be cut 3/32 deep.
    Will this wear a tire more quickly? If it's grippin' it ain't slippin'.
    I think you'd lose more rubber to a worn regular roller.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 7, 2012
    happycheapskate likes this.

  2. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    Ya gotta try dis, beats the heck outa sand & epoxy!
  3. Cavi Mike

    Cavi Mike Member

    Skateboard wheel.
  4. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    Looks like you did well. How is it going, in use? What is the result, on the tire wear?

    re: skate board wheel. How would you mount it?

    What drive system are you using? I have the dax kit and it has a narrow driveshaft. It uses either grub screws to lock the roller, or a sprag "clutch" on the bigger one.
  5. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    It seems to have 30/40% better grip than standard staton; works in the
    wet but not as well as I had hoped. Staton has new design 1" looks like
    worth a try. I think my modification will work better with a 1.125" spindle
    as I'm getting a larger engine anyway. The 7/8" with a gx35 isn't gonna climb
    well pulling a trailer.
  6. 2stroker

    2stroker New Member

    neoprene is the best try it out get the 90 grade 1 1/8th in roller..if you havent tried. try will be surprised how great it works..its definatly hands down the best roller.
  7. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    It has gotten up to 70 degrees here once since Sept.; we've had maybe 12 days
    since then without rain. For me the roller question is now moot; I've converted
    both my friction drives to belt drives by rotating the engines to the right side and
    tooling shafts outa 7"x 5/8" galvy bolts... with very satisfactory results I might add.
  8. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    Where do you buy them, and what kits does it work with? (Dax? Staton? Other?)

  9. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    I have a Staton,(the most precisely made), and a refitted & aligned BGF fric kit.
    I turned 'em 180, tooled one end of the bolts to fit the clutch bells, and used the
    rim from a 20" wheel for the sheave on one and a 24" rim for the other. I have
    several different pulleys that bolt onto the shaft and can be changed out in less
    than 2 min. giving me a wide range of ratios for various road conditions. I can
    get 26 to 1 like a fric drive on up to 13.5 to one for flat out on flat roads. My
    general purpose pulley is 19 to one, top speed 30 mph, yet it will climb most
    hills with a not too strenuous pedal assist for my 3 spd hub. I really don't
    need a lot of gears with a motor. The 3 spd makes everything elegantly simple.
  10. Stoney

    Stoney Member

    How about some pics of your creations
  11. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    I don't have any pics of the current configurations whiich have evolved from
    this earlier prototype pictured. the shown setup worked pretty well with spds
    to 33mph, but didn't have as much low end as I'd like for the trailer. The sheave
    here is from a 20" wheel. This bike now has the sheave from a 24" whl, a more
    precisely aligned Staton fric channel, and an HS 142 with 1 gal tank.
    Even though I got the roller to work pretty well, it's just too wet here for
    friction to be practical. Rollers either get coated with oily exhaust residue
    or clogged up with muck.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 6, 2012
  12. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    That's cool.

    The Dax friction drive is drilled and slotted on both sides, so the engine can be reversed, in case you want front wheel drive or create something else.

    The drive shaft is welded on the clutch bell. I think it's really strong that way. It's not long enough to mount anything (pulleys etc) outside the drive channel, but it's likely that the front bracket can be widened and washers used, or another bracket made, to compensate.

    I like LowRacer's idea of using a duplicate rim (or narrower rim) welded, or riveted and bonded, to the tire rim, as a large almost 1:1 pulley.

    Here's how I got a 1 gallon tank on my FD. This came out really well [​IMG]
    Last edited: May 7, 2012
  13. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    It was low racer put me onto the trying a 24'' whl's rim for a sheave. It
    really has worked out quite well. I didn't lose much top end, and it definitely
    delivers more torque to the wheel. I'm pedaling a little more, but with less
    effort on steep grades.
    If you did want to extend a shaft past the channel, it's not all that hard.
    just grind down a 5/8'' bolt and thread the end to 3/8'' 24 thread for the
    clutch bell. My pulleys were already 5/8'' i.d. so I could just bolt them onto
    the threaded end of the bolt.
    Last edited: May 7, 2012
  14. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    I think the one I have is welded. Cool idea though. If someone had a shaft extending past the drive channel, they could mount a magnet to it, and mount a coil and arm to the channel, to make a 12v lighting system. It would have the issue that it only operated while moving, but could also perhaps charge a 12v battery. I think it would be a good aftermarket part for someone to produce.

    My dax kit has the shaft going out of the other side of the channel by just long enough to fit a locking collar and snap ring. Perhaps instead of the locking collar, it could fit there.
  15. rawly old

    rawly old Member could just buy a generator, not as much fun tho. The great thing about
    have the shaft extend outboard instead of having the pulley inside is that
    swapping out pulleys to a higher or lower ratio is a breeze. It's so much simpler
    than changing rollers on friction.
  16. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    Oops, by the way, FYI, I neglected to mention that i cut a flat-faced
    notch into both sides of the shaft so I can grip it with a cresent wrench
    while twisting the nut on or off.