New Mods

Discussion in 'Photos & Bicycle Builds' started by jtmiyake, May 26, 2009.

  1. jtmiyake

    jtmiyake Member

    My everchanging bike got some new lighting today. I added a bullet tail light and headlight. The tail light connects to the motor rectifier / magneto and the headlight will eventually connect to a Sturmey Archer X-FDD hub that is arriving this week. Will also be making a new idler that is fixed between the two rear tubes.

    My other mods include new polycarbonate fenders, wireless speedo, side bags, and a Manic Mechanic clutch kit

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 26, 2009

  2. bikebum1975

    bikebum1975 Member

    Coll looking ride ya got there. You should post some details for us as to how you wired up your light would be an interesting project to try.
  3. jtmiyake

    jtmiyake Member

    For the rear light, it has the wire running through the bolt so the wiring is nicely hidden. I mount for the light is the ground and then I routed a wire down the side of the rack, then along the tubes to engine. I connected it to the white wire off the engine.

    The front light was set up for batteries but I will convert to run off the generator. I will pull the guts out of the light and then solder my wire and ground to the light frame. I'll then drill a hole through the light and protect the wire with a rubber grommit. Then just run the wire down the fork to the connector and the hub. That is it.

    These bullet lights are all over but I purchased through Someone else could do a similar set up easily with a friction drive generator.
  4. jtmiyake

    jtmiyake Member

    Chain idler / tensioner completed this afternoon

    I finished my chain tensioner. It took about an hour to build. Here are the parts.

    - Aluminum flat bar 1.5" x 1/8" x 2ft (enough left over for a second one). $5.29 at local hardware store.
    - 4 rubber coated clamps. $3.16
    - 4 stainless bolts and lock nuts. $2.00.

    Steps to build
    1) Cut flat bar to size with handy jig saw.
    2) Drilled bracket holes
    3) Drill pulley hole slot (drilled to holes on the ends and jig sawed the slot)
    4) Fitted onto bike. Tightened all bolts
    5) Fitted pulley to correct tension
    6) Trimmed and formed chain guard. Need to push it out a little so it would not rub on the tire or fender. Drilled hole for chain guard. Installed.

    Done... a little over $10... about 1 hour... and a nice ride to the hardware store

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 27, 2009
  5. Hawaii_Ed

    Hawaii_Ed Member

    Cool ideas! Looks great!
  6. robin bird

    robin bird Member

    wonderful iam going to build me one--very innovative!!!
  7. Seems I've seen that somewhere before! looks good! You can run w/o a tensioner on that frame but it holds the chain guard nicely. Good job!
    BTW I would recommend CE's Clamshell sprocket adapter over the clutch kit (I broke the hub on my schwinn w/ the kit sprocket mount). I'm putting my stock clutch actuater back on.

    Attached Files:

  8. jtmiyake

    jtmiyake Member

    I can not say I am the creator of this design. I've seen others but I thought I should post how simple the build is. Your design is THE one that also inspired me. Hope others can take advantage with the simple information. I don't plan to go into business with this so it is fun for me share.

    Can you share more on the clutch kit?. What broke on you? I think I know what clam shell your talking about but I don't see the major advantage.

    Maybe the clutch kit I am using is not clear. It just makes the lever easier to pull but I loose the level of clutch, thus I can not use the clutch lock anymore...
    Last edited: May 27, 2009
  9. No worries (it was ironic i'd just finished making one when I saw yours). I thought it was nice how you laid it out for people. they are simple, way safer and tidier than the kit ones.

    I like the look of the clutch mod but it was never hard to pull. I like the clutch lock out and would prefer to be able to use it. It was my impression that it would improve clutch actuation and I didn't notice any.

    The clamshell clamps onto the hub center and spreads the load to both banks of spokes rather than just the left. I don't like it as much as disc hub mounted sprockets but anything is an improvement over the kit sprocket mount.

    Nice Build! My wife stole mine (Schwinn Cruiser) 'cause it's so fun and easy to ride!

    P.S. the left side flange of the hub seperated from the main body when i used the kit sprocket on my Schwinn and I haven't used one since. Coming from a long motorcycle background I never liked the idea of clamping to the spokes anyway.
    Last edited: May 28, 2009