New performance build questions

Will'smotobikes19

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Hey guys I just purchased some parts for my next bike build. I got a 48mm iron sleeved cylinder, windowed flat top piston, 3mm stroker crank, an ebay 66cc/80cc kit also the smaller saucer style high compression head, regina chain #415 and some cnc aluminum grips. An ngk b5hs as well. Since I'm taking the engine apart to install the stroker crank should I invest in Japanese bearings and stainless allen hardware? Also how can I get the stock carb to work right with the higher displacement cylinder? Would moving the c clip on the needle help? Also how would I stop the vaccum leak on the stock carb if there was one. I don't have a frame for it yet but I'm thinking about an aluminum one maybe gasbike gt or similar. What mph do you guys think it will achieve with a 200lb person with a 36t sprocket?
 
Parts came today
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be sure to check timing slot on the two cranks - some cranks take rotor with slot at 1 o'clock while others take a rotor having slot almost straight up
 
Piston is 47.79mm just measured it at work so almost 48mm. I assume it's smaller for gas/oil clearance. Someone said the transfer ports were no good? can someone explain that? It looks like someone took a dremel to it but didn't smooth anything out. The iron sleeve is covering about 1mm of the bottom of the exhaust port.

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Also I just put the piston on my crank see how the bearing can slide from side to side. Won't that cause uneven wear? Is that ok? I have a pocket bike crank and piston too (2nd pic).
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I calculated the cc's what the engine would be (48mm bore x 41mm stroke) I got 74.192 cc pretty cool. I want to see what carb I can use I want something good and I don't want a carb thats meant for a 49cc engine if this baby is going to be almost 75cc. Might go reed valve and some sort of expansion chamber maybe the bikeberry one that's on sale for $62.
 
UPDATE: Got some stainless 304 allen head bolts for the engine. They didn't have everything I needed though such as the screws that attach the magneto or the longer bolts. They didn't have any deep groove bearings either. I was finally able to separate the 2 sides of the case but the output sprocket won't budge. I stripped out the puller tool and resorted to holding the puller body with vice grips and hitting a metal tube with a hammer trying to get it off. Nope didn't move at all. I think they shrink fit the sprocket or something. I'm about to order the Nachi bearings and see about the rest of the hardware. Also was thinking of getting one of the chrome banana pipes, a stage 1 cdi with ngk plug cap, a 40mm reed valve and unsure about carb. Might get a dremel tool to clean up the jug.
 
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Update: need to save money car is having issues started it with no oil accidentally after it leaked all the oil while I was driving yesterday or overnight. Tried starting it after adding oil didn't start. Might have to get a different car. It has a bad fuel pump or sensor possibly too. Build will be on hold until the car is figured out. UPDATE a shop charged me $120 to do nothing but look at it and change the oil. It was jerking up hills and revving down to 1000 rpm drove it home and now it wont start my mom is trying to get it back to that same mechanic and I'm pissed. I won't waste any more money if they won't do their job.
 
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