New Problem, U guys sick of this amateur yet?

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by wrightmor, Jun 16, 2008.

  1. wrightmor

    wrightmor Member

    I finished assembling my bike. That's the good news.
    The bad news is the back wheel refuses to turn. I can't even use it as a bicylce, let alone motor. back wheel is locked. (just got return call from seller- he says I need to make clutch tighter. I thot about that already, but he insist the problem is there- I'll have to play with it).

    Also I dropped the little pac-man washer out of the carb and didn't see it until I was putting my tools up. Seller said I need to replace that or it won't work.

    Maybe when I put to practice what seller told me - he called after I started this post - every thing will be cool. hope so.

    Like one of you told me earlier on another post. Think of all the time I am going to save when I go for that second motor!

    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 21, 2008

  2. eljefino

    eljefino Member

    Rock it back and forth, does the top part of the (motor) chain get taut then the bottom? Wheel should roll a couple inches due to chain slack if the motor is locked up.

    We have to decide if it's the motor locked up or something in the rear wheel. For example the chain might be sliding off the rear sprocket, that'll lock 'er up real good.

    You can take the spark plug out; then the motor will turn over much easier. This will help verify your chain works etc. Also manipulate the clutch lever at the motor to take the cable out of the equation.
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2008
  3. wrightmor

    wrightmor Member

    Thanks! those are good test.

    Rolling back and forth, sure enough I get a couple of inches of rotation. The chain does get taut at top then at bottom as I reverse my attempt to roll the bike.

    Taking the clutch cable out of the equation did nothing for me.

    Taking the spark plug out allowed me to roll the bike freely. However the chain slipped off the sproket on the wheel as I advanced the bike forward. I reversed and manuevered the chain back on the sproket but it simply repeated the coming off sproket trick when I tried to advance again. Only with the spark plug removed was I able to get any movement at all to speak of. The chain derailing may be a second problem that is waiting to manifest itself when I get motor unlocked.
  4. Simon_A

    Simon_A Member

    Sounds like 2 issues there.

    1/ Your clutch isnt disengauging properly, so that will lock up the engine and wheel with engine compression, hence why it can roll without the plug in (no compression). I found with mine I had to clamp the arm over a little with a G clamp before tightening up the cable ferrule.

    2/ If the chain is coming off, then you have an alignment problem between the engine sprocket and the rear sprocket on the back wheel, can you take a picture of the back of the bike showing the chain as fitted? And also one showing the sprocket fitted to the back wheel?
    If so attach them to a reply and we might be able to get you rolling :)
  5. wrightmor

    wrightmor Member

    Good news about the clutch problem. It was a "newbie" problem. My clutch arm had about a 45 degree play. I didn't know I was to force it inward until Simon said something about a g-clamp. I thot if he can do that I should be able to push it without hurting it. That one's solved. bike moves freely except for chain.

    attached are 3 shots of how I attached chain to possibly help u help me. Thanks again for your input.

    about that "pac-man" washer that fell out of the carb before I put the spring plunger assembly together. Does that little washer go inside the little copper tubing cylinder (meaning disassembly of the spring and plunger assembly - groan!) or does it simply rest on the floor of the carb underneath the little copper tubing. the slot would allow the plunger to fit and there is a little recess in the tubing that lets the washer fit right cozy. I think i know ur answer. It's probably the groan factor. Fact is the little bugger fell out before I could see where it came from. And once again, the instructions assume I know what I'm doing. There is no detail.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 17, 2008
  6. HoughMade

    HoughMade Guest

    Looks like your chain is too slack.
  7. Ghost0

    Ghost0 Guest

    You may also want to turn your sprocket around. I notice that you have the dished portion of it set to the outboard of the bike. Turn it around so that the dish is toward the center of the bike. That should also improve alignment.
  8. wrightmor

    wrightmor Member

    Hey, if that will get me out of this predicament. But wouldn't that put the teeth and the chain into my spokes? Right now they both are threatening my chassis. paper thin distance between my chain and the bike frame. But I called the seller b4 installation asking about the direction of the sprocket and the installed version is per his instruction. Wonder if I could just tighten the sprocket a little the way it is. I get almost a full revolution before the chain pops off the bottom of the sprocket inward.
  9. I suprised you didn't get an instruction booklet with the kit, the sprocket is the wrong way around and the bolts are not tight, check photos of peoples bikes here, shiney side out, dished side in.
    Here is a copy of sprocket installation from my booklet.

    STEP 4

    Thread the nine bolts through the sprocket and use the half moon backing plates on the inside. Tighten all nine bolts moving across in a star fashion and a little at a time to allow for an even pull down. Once the sprocket is tight spin the wheel and check that the sprocket runs true. Deviation can be no more than 1.5mm both ways. Any side-to-side excess deviation can be corrected by spinning the wheel and then tightening the sprocket where needed in order to get correct alignment. Make sure bolts are tight. Notice that concavity or indentation of teeth of the rear sprocket is inward towards spokes. This helps keep the chain closer to the inside of the wheel and spokes and allows for better clearance of the rear stays of the bicycle frame.
  10. wrightmor

    wrightmor Member

    Well, Phil, it looks like I've got my work cut out for me. I did get instruction manual. Here's what it says regarding sprocket:
    "Mount the sprocket to the rear wheel as shown (one photograph at not too good of an angle). Do not over-tighten and make sure the sprcket is exactly perpendicular to the axis of the wheel. Reinstall the rear wheel."

    I think i should have shopped around more. Better instruction manuals would probably be worth any diff in price I might have had to pay.

    But I even called the guy and he told me flared side out. Go figure. Well, it's back to the old drawing board. Thanks for ur help. To me, taking the rear wheel off was about the most difficult part of the whole operation. I've got the multi-speed sprocket on the other side and liked to never got it all back like it came off. But I want to ride. And I will just enjoy the ride more knowing the experience it cost me.
  11. Simon_A

    Simon_A Member

    Okay I agree with whats said above, your rear sprocket is backwards and your chain is too loose.

    Ideal chain fit is clutch out roll the bike back till the top run of the chain is tight from the engine sprocket to the rear sprocket.

    Then you have about 1/2 a inch up/down movement in the lower run of the chain.

    Anymore can risk the chain derailing, and it will make an awful noise slapping around.

    The idea of the back tyre locking up cos the chain has derailed at 30mph isnt a pretty picture.

  12. The needle goes into the slide, then the "pac-man" washer, then the spring. The spring pushes down on the washer holding the needle in place. Hope this helps...

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 17, 2008
  13. Jixz

    Jixz Member

    Don't even get me started about that picture xD.. Pulling like 20-25 around a corner and REERERER!!! Chains locked up in the back wheel. A few broken spokes, a wet pair of pants, and a long search of the road for my master link pieces and im good to go..

    Moral Of the story... make sure that chain is aligned with the drive sprocket and rear sprocket and pretty tight. Ive never ran into a problem with the chain being TOO tight.. but i aim for 1/2 inch ish' play room as said above.
  14. wrightmor

    wrightmor Member

    now u guys are scaring me.

    I finished fixing the carb yesterday. Will prob not post again until I have fixed the sprocket prob.

    Thanks misteright for that blowup of carb details. and thanks to all of you for your invaluable input. So thankful I found this board.

  15. HeHeHe.

    ring ,,, ring,,,Yes ,,,HELLO,,,, is this triple A.

    Great ....I need a tow for my Bicycle......Yes Bicycle ...don't worry I have unlimited towing .

    Last ...would you happen to have a spare pair or Shorts..I kind of had a second little accident.

    yes....toilet paper would be nice as well.....


  16. Jixz

    Jixz Member

    lol.. ya. Stupid mistakes xD. Good news is my bikes fine and i had a WONDERFUL ride with my buddy last night. Rideing is so much more fun when you have two or more people. We have 3 people in out neighborhood now with these kits.. its awfully fun!
  17. wrightmor

    wrightmor Member

    I'm B-a-a-a-a-ck. The good news is carb is fixed, sprocket aligned. Boy was it ever out of alignment. I looked down from the top of the rear tire before tackling it and saw that it was no wonder it wouldn't stay on sprocket. Anyway, I'm past that now and had to wait for it to quit raining today before I could try it out.

    The really good news is the motor works and pulls my bike just great. The bad news is I can't stop it and it sounds full throttle, the last word being key to my problem I'm sure. The throttle has absolutely no effect on motor speed. I had to pull up the choke to stop the bike and it must have been going pretty much full speed at the time. Don't want to mess up a perfectly good motor by full throttle like that, not to mention the possibility of widowhood for my beloved.

    My throttle instructions were: "Remove existing right handle grip and replace with twist throttle. ... Replace brake lever after installation of throttle."

    Can anybody out there fill in the gaps?
  18. Jixz

    Jixz Member

    :p .. welcome back..

    ya.. i did the same thing as you my first run... full throttle and such.

    your problem is how you put your throttle assembly in the carb. Take it all out and look inside it.. threres a little pin inside that guides the throttle assembly when you move it. you have to twist the assembly to make sure its going ALL the way down. and make sure the top is on tight. ill give you a diagram if your still confused
  19. wrightmor

    wrightmor Member

    Right on target with the carb solution. The copper sleeve had slot all the way up on one side (necessary to thread the cable into it). On the other side it had a little notch down at the bottom. on the floor of the carb was a little (looked like bb sized) knob. I had the sleeve fit over that knob on the side where the slot was all the way up. As you suggested, I twisted the cylinder (about 180 degrees) and lo and behold, I'm in control. Thanks for your input. I was one discouraged puppy when I could not stop the thing. It was downright scary.

    Now I do have a little mechanical squeaky noise sounding like coming from front wheel. I added air. I adjusted brakes. but nothing seems to help. Maybe it's normal. I do have shock absorbers on the front. Don't know if that has anything to do with it or not.

    BTW, my apologies to the powers that be and to the community in general for making it necessary for my post to be moved. I'm sorry if I got off the subject. Still learning my way around here. I'll try to be more careful in the future, but when u have to refer to a carb washer as "pac-man" and have to remount the motor because u forgot to put on the carborater, well, u no. I have a little difficulty knowing just where to fit my post in at. :???:
  20. I would take a look at you wheel bearings or at least take the wheel off and see if it spins freely. I just replaced my rear bearings and they were shot. Dont want the front wheel bearing siezing at any speed.......