Engine Trouble New Rider Bike Will Not Go Some Help Please!!

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by rallen2012, Jul 21, 2011.

  1. rallen2012

    rallen2012 New Member

    As you can tell in the pic i have removed the throttle pin, to figuring maybe this is why i can't start my bike. i have been trying to start the bike for a week now. everything is together. what have i done wrong if anything. i do not know. the fuel is mixed at 16:1 fuel to oil. i have put synthetic 2 stroke oil in with the gas. so as i go out on the street the bike acts like it wants to start, but it just will not stay going. as a matter a fact i get no forward movement after releasing the clutch. i can hear the exhaust, but there is no go at all, it will just come to a stop and sometime a quick stop. does any see or know why this thing will not run. anybody any help would be appreciated. k thks

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  2. IbedaYank

    IbedaYank Member

    #1 you need to SOLIDLY mount that fuel tank
    #2 hook up your cdi/coil
    #3 if don't understand it find somebody to help you that does

    its not a throttle pin its a carb slide
    these bikes are not toys theres enough stuff there to HURT/kill you
    burns from gasoline are not painless
    do it RIGHT or don't do it at all your family and the rest of us riders will be greatfull
  3. rallen2012

    rallen2012 New Member

    ok carb slide. the brackets that came with the kit do not fit the frames tube ok. I have had to seal the pit cock with seal all since it was leaking but thats not a problem anymore. cause the treades did not fit the gas tank. i had the black box there wired to the kill switch. i have enough mech exp with cars a trucks that all i need is a few suggestions as to what you are saying here after all i have rebulit a iroc tranny and been though enough training, to not run a bike like the pics. i mean it not like i just got off the bike and took some pics. com on man. the two wires hanging from the engine are suppose to be for a head light, and the black box going to the spark plug have a blue and black wire both for the kill switch, it not related to why the bike will not go. the box was wired to the yellow button,(kill switch) but didn't matter the bike would still not go.
  4. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    It sounds like you need to adjust your clutch.
    When you squeeze in the clutch handle is there any resistance?
    In the pic, your clutch cable looks way too loose and it looks like there's slack in it.
    If the engine starts and runs but will not idle, turn the idle screw in(the screw in the left side of the carb.).
    When you put the slide back in the carb, make sure the short slot goes to the left side, and the long slot (shown in pic #1) goes to the right side and lines up with a little pin that's cast into the inside of the carb.

    You should spend some more time on the details and don't rush the build. Whenever you rush, you miss things, and the bike ends up looking like it was thrown together in a few hours and can be unsafe.
    Seriously, you need to mount the gas tank to the frame better, and solidy (it can be done with a little inginuity),
    You should run your wiring so that it's out of the way and secured to the frame.
    Get rid of the stock push together wire connectors and solder all of your wire connections, and then cover them with heat shrink.

    That speedo that you have on there won't last but a few days because the internals are all plastic. They will destroy themselves after awhile because they were not meant to go 30 mph.
    I know because I had one of those speedos, and it blew apart after about 3 days of riding.

    You need to get an in line fuel filter put on there for sure.

    That stock chain tensioner probably won't last very long, and it may even end up in the spokes.(it's happened several times).

    If you slow down and put some thought into what you're doing you could end up with a really nice looking and great running bike.
    the devil is in the details...take your time.

    Here's my 2 bikes.
    I have about 4 days worth of work just putting the engine on, doing the wiring and making a few custom parts to replace a few kit supplied part for the chopper.
    I have about 20 hours in the gas tank (body work and paint) and i have another couple of hours in the exhaust, and tuning the carb. a few misc. hours in making the headlight, the tail light, chopping the seat post and welding a smaller seat post inside of the original one to fit a standard seat on it.
    look close...do you see a mount for the gas tank? it's hidden and it cost me about 50 cents to make it.

    close up of the paint on the tank.

    I have about 4 days worth of just putting the engine on and doing the wiring on my lowrider.
    I have about 30 hours in the frame (stripping the old paint, repainting it and buffing it out). another couple of hours putting on the expansion chamber and making the custom baffle and exhaust. about an hour in making the custom chain tensioner. and then there's the misc. time i have in chopping the sissy bar(it has shocks on it), chopping both fenders, chopping the seat post, making the headlight and the tail light.
    About 15 hours in the gas tank (the pearl white paint job, my friend did the pinstriping.)
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2011
  5. rallen2012

    rallen2012 New Member

    Yep There Some Resistance To The Clutch, But Ill Tighten It Up Some Thks
  6. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    forget the headlight....forget the kill switch. (for now)

    the black & blue wires coming from the engine plug into the black & blue wires coming from the black box. (CDI)
  7. IbedaYank

    IbedaYank Member

    funny... my cdi box is wired to the wires coming off the motor...
    blue to blue black to black motor runs
    white wire not used
    if you DON't connect to the wires coming off the motor how is the motor to supply the power to make the cdi work?
    why not just disconnect the battery and alternator in your car and see if you can start it and if it will run.
    READ THE MANUAL ... all the info is in there

    that is how it should be hooked up
  8. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    there should be quite a bit of resistance when you pull in the clutch. when the clutch handle is in, you should not be able to move or wiggle the clutch lever on the side of the engine.
    when the clutch handle is released, you should be able to wiggle the clutch arm on the side of the engine a little bit.
    it just sounds like your clutch is slipping really bad.

    Be prepared to do a lot of tinkering and tuning, unless you're happy with the way it runs right out of the box.
    there's a ton of room for improvement as to how the engine can run.
    when you ride one that has not been tuned right and then jump on one that has been tuned right, you'll get a real eye opener.
    it takes time man, and i'm not knocking your abilities at all.
    but a ton of the stuff that it takes to get one of these things running is mechanical common sense.
  9. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    exactly, the magneto powers the cdi, the cdi amplifies it and sends spark to the spark plug.
    basic stuff there.
  10. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    you have training in what?
    you re-built an iroc camaro transmission but have you ever done any ignition wiring or motorcycle/ automotive electrical work?
    An iroc camaro trans is simple stuff, nothing more than a 700r4 automatic.
    i don't mean to sound like a d**k, but it's hard for people to help you when you come on here and act like you know everything.
    "the two wires hanging from the engine are suppose to be for a head light, and the black box going to the spark plug have a blue and black wire both for the kill switch, it not related to why the bike will not go. the box was wired to the yellow button,(kill switch) but didn't matter the bike would still not go"

    That's exactly wrong.
    the 2 wires coming from the engine are coming from the magneto and ARE NOT for a headlight. The white wire is designated for a headlight, but trust me it will not work...don't even bother hooking anything to the white wire.
    hook the black wire from the engine to the black wire on the cdi box. Hook the blue wire from the engine to the blue wire on the cdi box and tie the kill switch wire (yellow) into the blue wires. cap off the end of the white wire and forget about it.
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2011
  11. IbedaYank

    IbedaYank Member

    ever heard of making a longer strap for the gastank?
    you come on here asking for help then get your panties in a knot because YOU hooked it up wrong and it wont run.
    GROW up if you want some help.
    If you were that good of a wrench your bike would run... guess what bud... it don't so your not that good.
    drop your attitude and you might just learn how to make the motor run.

    learn to use the SEARCH on this site everything you asked has been covered many times.
  12. rallen2012

    rallen2012 New Member

    I Am Sorry. Truth Is I Do Not Know All There Is To Know About Everything. And I Do Not Have Much Experience In Motorized Bike Wiring, Just Some Here And There. It Just Sounded Like The Guy Was Talkin Down To Me And Knocking Me It Russeled My Tail Feather A Bit. I Just Took The Advice Wrong And I Really Do Appreciated The Advice And Pics From You Guys. I Will Make My Bike The Safest And Soundest Stingray I Possibly Can. I Truly Look Forward To This New Hobby And Am Glad To See Others Have The Same Kinda Passion For An Inexpensive Way To Cruise And Enjoy The Roads. Thks Again And All Respects.
  13. rallen2012

    rallen2012 New Member

    It Seemed That Simply Connect The Wires Together From The Engine To The Box, However Boygofast Only Said Something About A Kill Switch And Headlight, Then I Read If Not Hooking Up Headlight Leave Engine Wires Alone. It Just Did'nt Make Any Sense So I Followed And This Is Why It's Not Running. I Sent An Email For A Instructional Manual But Go No Response From Boygofast On Ebay. Then After I Put The Bike All Together I Read On Here To Not Deal With These Guys, They Do Not Stand Behind There Products. Oh Yeah Live And Learn. U Know.
  14. IbedaYank

    IbedaYank Member

    the link i posted will work with that motor that is the manual for the HT motors
    all the same basic design just couple differnt makers
    is just a drop shipper he does nothing more than order them then ship them out
    the WHITE wire is used for lights under 3 watts total power
    white is positive engine case is ground.
    there are no headlights that i have been able to find that are 3 watts or less
    @ 6 volts

    Best bet will be to build your own light setup using a rechargeable 12 volt SLA deep cycle battery using LED lightbulbs
    i have no problem helping you **** may learn new stuff by helping ya.
  15. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    white is alternating. high current low voltage.

    blue is alternating, low current, high voltage.

    black is earth.

    meh :) my quarters worth :)

    dont use white!

    (led's will run at 3 volts and produce 1 watt...which is actually really bright...but they need a rectifier, a regulator...oh lord, complexity sets in!)
  16. IbedaYank

    IbedaYank Member

    based on my research the reliability of running any lights of the ht motors is iffy at best
    another point is getting a ht to power lights is beyond the relm of the noob without a degree in a related field...lol
    just using a rechargeable battery switches and leds makes it so much more reliable and simple... OMHO
    12 volt is alot easier to find than 6 volt LEDs
    use EBAY for the leds...much cheaper than a local store
  17. rallen2012

    rallen2012 New Member

    Bike Runs Good Thks

    Thks For The Helpful Input Man. Spend The Whole Night, Fixing The Stingray Before An Early Morning Test Spin. Good New It Tops Out At About 35 Mph. Didn't Take It Out On The Roads Yet Just Stayed Close To Home. The Gas Tank Is Solidly Mounted Now Took Some Fabricating But It Will Not Move. Apparent The High Voltage Wire Is Tied Into The Cdi And The Ground Is Also Tied In To The Coil. I Also Moved The Fender So It Now Has Two Bolts Holding It Together. Before I Only Had The One Bolt Holding The Fender On To The Frame Cause I Wanted The Brake Light To Be Visible. But Again Bro Sorry For The Stubborn Head Of Mine. And Thks Cause Now It Runs. And I'm :d

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  18. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    cool...see all you need to do is slow down a bit and take your time.
    Now that it's running, you shoudl take some more time and clean up everything so it doesn't look so quickly thrown together (in my opinion).
    I'm sorry but when i build something, I take my time and make sure that it looks as clean as possible. One thing i can't stand to see is wires hanging all over the place and part bolted on that don't look like they belong where they are.
    The gas tank looks goofy where you have it mounted, but again that's just my opinion.
    it's your bike, build it how you want, but just make sure that it's safe.

    How do you know that it topped out at 35 mph? are you trusting that speedo that you have on it?
    what size rear sprocket do you have on it?
    my chopper has a 41 tooth on it, modified exhaust, re-jetted and tuned carb and a high flow air filter, and i'm getting an honest 32 mph top speed.
    I just find it hard to beleive that you are getting an honest 35 mph from an untuned carb, stock exhaust and probably a 44 tooth rear sprocket.
    if you want som ereal speed, the best thing to do is drop down to a 36 tooth or smaller rear sprocket.
    a 44 tooth sprocket on a 20" rim is the same as like a 56 tooth sprocket on a 26" rim.
    these kits were designed and geared to be used on bikes with taller wheels. the smaller the rear wheel, or bigger the rear sprocket, the less top speed you will get.
    there is a ton to know about gear ratios and wheel sizes if you are looking for speed or low end torque.
  19. IbedaYank

    IbedaYank Member


    ditch that POS chain that came with your kit and get a good bmx chain from the local bike shop. Caused me more headaches with popped/broken links. Replaced it with a KMC chain and not had a problem since. Maybe one of the chopper guys has a better way to mount your tank so it not so close to the seat. Grab some splitloom from your local autoparts store to clean up the wiring a bit and it will also protect the wires.

    Break in for these motors is at least a gallon at mix ratio of 16 to 1 half throttle and no more than 30 minutes with at least a hour inbetween
  20. Big Red

    Big Red Active Member


    Hey rallen,
    I've built 10 or 12 of the OCC choppers and there's a couple things you need to look out for. #1 is that seat post. This bike was made for 80lb kids to ride at max 10mph, Not a 160lb dude at 30mph. The extra weight and bounce will most likely snap the post off at the weld. That will NOT be a lot of fun at 30mph. I suggest welding in a brace or a different seat altogether. #2 is the frame. I admit I was way too big for this bike (230lbs) but I found the frame metal on these to be REAL thin. I've had to weld back together more than one of these frames becouse of stress breaks. If you're only 120lbs tops then you might get by with this frame. I'm only trying to warn you of what "could" happen, Not what will happen. I just want everyone to be as safe as possible.
    Big Red.

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