New Schwinn Build
- Thread starter lillback44
- Start date
Crankshaft sent to Dave Reese in Ohio for rebuild. Cylinder bored .020" O.S piston, rings and wrist pin replaced. Checked magneto and it checks good. Head will need to be welded or replaced as it has a major hole for one of the head bolts. If I can't get it welded correctly, then I have another head we can use on the motor. Will replace oil seal and crankshaft bearing.Still have to cut valves and valve seats and lap valves in.
Carburetor looks like it will work after I change a few internal parts [no charge]. Carburetor looks really nice.
Side cover bearing is good.
Need to decide about changing plug wire to original type, as it is too stiff.
I exchanged the "E" bar in your magneto [no charge], as the original is riveted, not held together with screws.
Motor has tall breather [a good thing]and will allow you to run 8 oz. of oil.
Crankcase will look good after it is cleaned, and is in good condition.
Looks like you have a winner this time.
Will need a few additional minor parts, such as the magneto cover [can get from Ron Houk in CA 714-996-6323]. Will also need exhaust manifold for the "H"/"J" motor [Memory Lane Classics in Ohio 419-832-3040].
Have fun,
lillback44
Member
Thanks Quenton,I never had a doubt that you were the right guy for this rebuild! I was crushed when you said that carb may not work because she sure is pretty. Great news to hear you can make it work! I'm going to add a photo of it. Let me know when you want to settle up, by email or call. I found that compression cable and will send that along too.
Anyone reading this can tell I am a big Quenton Guenther fan! Not only is he a encyclopedia of whizzer knowledge, but takes the time to help anyone who asks for his help ( usually within a day) This is the second time he's pulled my ass from the fire! More to come.
A few pictures of the motor build.Decked cylinder, cut valve seats, re-faced valves, lapped valves, liquid tested. Open intake and exhaust port to increase flow. Opened cylinder bore for .020" O.S. piston. NOS rings, and valve "C" clips [how cool is that?]. Cylinder is now completed.
Have fun,
lillback44
Member
Hey Quenton, Are you sure you got the right motor? Looking good! I see you were able to use the jug that I painted. I'm adding photo's of the jug that I prepared for this build.
After sand blasting I carefully taped off the areas such as the the top surface, exhaust. carb flange and compression cover area, as to keep mounting surfaces clean and not allow paint to get inside the jug. I used a high temperature ceramic enamel paint I purchased from autozone.
Check with Quenton about details on the correct paint to use because I understand that some paints that have a high degree of like 1100-1200 may not dry properly and cause you problems down the road. I got lucky buying the right stuff without checking on this.
The one thing I would like to stress to a new builder is to check with as many people as you can whether it be buying a part or choosing a certain type of paint. Mistakes can be very costly and cause long delays!
After sand blasting I carefully taped off the areas such as the the top surface, exhaust. carb flange and compression cover area, as to keep mounting surfaces clean and not allow paint to get inside the jug. I used a high temperature ceramic enamel paint I purchased from autozone.
Check with Quenton about details on the correct paint to use because I understand that some paints that have a high degree of like 1100-1200 may not dry properly and cause you problems down the road. I got lucky buying the right stuff without checking on this.
The one thing I would like to stress to a new builder is to check with as many people as you can whether it be buying a part or choosing a certain type of paint. Mistakes can be very costly and cause long delays!
Racie35
Member
Looking good
lillback44
Member
Thanks Racie
Originally I wanted to go with chrome rims, but the ones I purchased on ebay were not suitable for re- chroming. I have one good rim for re-chroming but these ones have the crappy style knurling on them so I decided to powder coat these rims. I decided to do something a little different and went with a beautiful bright red color. This will contrast with the darker red trim of the bike and not sure how it will work.
I'm also trying to avoid going with a exact copy of else. Have you ever been to a car show were every other car is a cookie cutter fiberglass 32 deuce coupe? Don't get me wrong, it's a great car but it's been done to death. Anyway, switching to chrome is always a option.
I'm putting up a few pics of the rims. Notice these are in process and won't be completed till later. Waiting on a rear hub.
A few words on powder coating that may help someone who is thinking about this or doesn't know about it. Powder coating can be a cheaper, more affordable, alternative to painting, especially if your paying someone else. It can also be a much more durable option than paint, however it is not bullet proof and can be scratched just like paint. Trying to get a powder coater to do more than one color may be difficult and expensive and color choices are more limited.
Basic colors may have a lot quicker turnaround time and custom colors may take longer simply because a coater would rather do the 10000 piece black order rather than your 1 piece orange frame. You can also save money by seeing what other color jobs the guy has coming up and go with one of those colors. I saved a lot by going with a red color the powder coater had scheduled for another job.
I hope to do some painting this weekend and will share more later. Thanks
Originally I wanted to go with chrome rims, but the ones I purchased on ebay were not suitable for re- chroming. I have one good rim for re-chroming but these ones have the crappy style knurling on them so I decided to powder coat these rims. I decided to do something a little different and went with a beautiful bright red color. This will contrast with the darker red trim of the bike and not sure how it will work.
I'm also trying to avoid going with a exact copy of else. Have you ever been to a car show were every other car is a cookie cutter fiberglass 32 deuce coupe? Don't get me wrong, it's a great car but it's been done to death. Anyway, switching to chrome is always a option.
I'm putting up a few pics of the rims. Notice these are in process and won't be completed till later. Waiting on a rear hub.
A few words on powder coating that may help someone who is thinking about this or doesn't know about it. Powder coating can be a cheaper, more affordable, alternative to painting, especially if your paying someone else. It can also be a much more durable option than paint, however it is not bullet proof and can be scratched just like paint. Trying to get a powder coater to do more than one color may be difficult and expensive and color choices are more limited.
Basic colors may have a lot quicker turnaround time and custom colors may take longer simply because a coater would rather do the 10000 piece black order rather than your 1 piece orange frame. You can also save money by seeing what other color jobs the guy has coming up and go with one of those colors. I saved a lot by going with a red color the powder coater had scheduled for another job.
I hope to do some painting this weekend and will share more later. Thanks
Racie35
Member
I like powder coating and use it myself....I also like bikes with colored rims....that red looks good.....better tighten those spokes!!
Sure do like to watch this build in detail. I noticed you are using the Schwinn front brake, a good choice.
I was able to pay a local welder $20.00 to Helli-arc the massive hole in the head, and after some machine work in my mill, it turned out great [see pictures]. I also spent several hours on the crankcase, as there were many stripped threads, broken screws, and several O.S. openings. I had to install Heli-coils in the bottom and top motor mount stud openings, as they will larger than 3/8". I ran a 5/16 X 24 tap on all the existing studs, and installed the 2 new studs in the crankcase. Next I drilled out the 2 screws broken off in the bearing support plate, and tapped them to 10-24. Installed the 3 special screws and tapered lock washers in the plate. I don't know why so many remove the screws in the plate as there is never a reason to remove it. Whizzer even mentioned in several manuals and service facts, to leave the plate alone, unless replacement is needed. Just another one of the mysteries about vintage Whizzers.
Top end is completed, carburetor still needs to be tested, will clean case and install new bearing & seal this weekend. Just waiting on crankshaft.
Might be helpful, if a magneto cover was located and sent my way [about the only missing part needed for completion].
Have fun,
