New Schwinn Build
- Thread starter lillback44
- Start date
lillback44
Member
I believe Quenton will take care of that because he has the arm and pulley. Thanks
lillback44
Member
Thanks Ray,
This has been kind of an accelerated build. I hope to have this mainly complete in a week or two. I will do a little re-chroming of a few parts this winter and a few tweaks. I'm wondering about the rear fender. I know a regular whizzer fender would be too wide for this middleweight frame, but am concerned that a middleweight fender may not work with a 2.125 tire. Any ideas? Thanks
This has been kind of an accelerated build. I hope to have this mainly complete in a week or two. I will do a little re-chroming of a few parts this winter and a few tweaks. I'm wondering about the rear fender. I know a regular whizzer fender would be too wide for this middleweight frame, but am concerned that a middleweight fender may not work with a 2.125 tire. Any ideas? Thanks
lillback44
Member
Very nice bike! Thanks
lillback44
Member
Well, things have come to a standstill on my build till today. I finally received the good news I've been waiting for. Quenton has shipped my motor and I will be receiving it Saturday! 5 weeks is a very reasonable time for this rebuilt motor,but it seems like it's been 5 months. I wish I had sent it sooner, because Memory Lane has it's swap meet this weekend and I was hoping to have the bike together so I could pick up any last minute parts I have forgotten.
I've also received my fender and light from Memory Lane and wanted to post a pic of it as I was mocking it up. I'm undecided on the finish for this fender as of right now, but I wanted to share some info on installing a fender like this. I found on a previous build that these springer forks and fenders can be very challenging to put together.
This is a good example of why kids took certain parts like fenders, tanks, and pork chop brakes off a bike and never put them back on, and why these parts became hard to find . The first time I tried to put a springer fork on a freshly painted bike, it fell over and put a gouge through the seat post diamond from top to bottom.
The fender seemed extremely wide for the forks and the fender clip was too wide for the gap in the steer tube. As luck has it, i still had the old clip. I highly recommend to take springer assembly off the bike and than disassemble fork. Attach the fender clip to top of fender. Loosely re-assemble forks, install rim and springer assembly, than tighten everything down.
Once you have it all together you can put the whole assembly on the bike as a whole unit. This is the easiest way that I found to do this. If anyone has any other ideas on this, please feel free to add to this post.
I have alot of assembly to do this weekend and really hope to have it together enough for a test drive. Stay tuned for more this weekend. Thanks
I've also received my fender and light from Memory Lane and wanted to post a pic of it as I was mocking it up. I'm undecided on the finish for this fender as of right now, but I wanted to share some info on installing a fender like this. I found on a previous build that these springer forks and fenders can be very challenging to put together.
This is a good example of why kids took certain parts like fenders, tanks, and pork chop brakes off a bike and never put them back on, and why these parts became hard to find . The first time I tried to put a springer fork on a freshly painted bike, it fell over and put a gouge through the seat post diamond from top to bottom.
The fender seemed extremely wide for the forks and the fender clip was too wide for the gap in the steer tube. As luck has it, i still had the old clip. I highly recommend to take springer assembly off the bike and than disassemble fork. Attach the fender clip to top of fender. Loosely re-assemble forks, install rim and springer assembly, than tighten everything down.
Once you have it all together you can put the whole assembly on the bike as a whole unit. This is the easiest way that I found to do this. If anyone has any other ideas on this, please feel free to add to this post.
I have alot of assembly to do this weekend and really hope to have it together enough for a test drive. Stay tuned for more this weekend. Thanks
Attachments
lillback44
Member
Mounting the motor
Well I received my motor back from Quenton yesterday and was quite happy with my like new motor! Great job Quenton! I waited till evening to get started mounting the engine to the frame. I needed to do a slight alteration to the bottom bracket in order for the 2 halves to mate properly. After sawing of a small portion I was able to start mounting.
Building this from scratch, I only have pics from the web to reference and could not find a photo showing the bottom clamp and bracket. After I was fairly confident I had it correct I proceeded with the mount. Later I was able to find a pic on this site and was able to confirm I had it right. Here are a few pics of this.View attachment 50633View attachment 50634View attachment 50635
After getting the motor and rear wheel on I was able to deal with the dreaded clearance issue that I knew was coming. I first realized I may have this problem after I got the frame back from powder coat and tried to apply the stencils. I don't know all the particulars on the differences between a heavy and middleweight frame , but the tubing is slightly larger and there are some measurement differences. In a perfect situation you could have all the parts you need for your build and do a mock-up like they do on American Choppers. However, I've been acquiring pieces bit by bit so this was not an option. This is essentially a custom build and you have to be able to make the necessary adjustments as you go. This is how I did mine.
I couldn't bare the thought of taking a 2x4 to my nicely finished frame so I came up with a way to spread the frame without causing any damage at all, using a tool I already had. First I took my MacPherson Strut Spring Compressor and coated the hooks with a protective rubber coating.
I than flipped around the hooks and added 2 nuts and 2 washers in between the hooks. In affect I simply reversed the tool so that instead of compressing, it will instead spread the frame! I moved the tool up as close to the bottom bracket as allowed and alternated turning the nuts with a wrench in opposite directions, slowly spreading the frame from 4 3/4 to 6 1/2 measured at the dropouts.
After removing the tool, I added a chrome spacer, 1/2" with a 3/8 center to the axle and mounted the wheel. Just look at the belt clearance i have now!
This tool can be had at Harbor Freight Tools for about $14 or could be easily improvised with a 5/8 threaded
bolt, 2 washers, 2 nuts and a few pieces of metal for hooks. Last pic is a rough mock up of the bike now.
Next: Crimping the frame.
Well I received my motor back from Quenton yesterday and was quite happy with my like new motor! Great job Quenton! I waited till evening to get started mounting the engine to the frame. I needed to do a slight alteration to the bottom bracket in order for the 2 halves to mate properly. After sawing of a small portion I was able to start mounting.
Building this from scratch, I only have pics from the web to reference and could not find a photo showing the bottom clamp and bracket. After I was fairly confident I had it correct I proceeded with the mount. Later I was able to find a pic on this site and was able to confirm I had it right. Here are a few pics of this.View attachment 50633View attachment 50634View attachment 50635
After getting the motor and rear wheel on I was able to deal with the dreaded clearance issue that I knew was coming. I first realized I may have this problem after I got the frame back from powder coat and tried to apply the stencils. I don't know all the particulars on the differences between a heavy and middleweight frame , but the tubing is slightly larger and there are some measurement differences. In a perfect situation you could have all the parts you need for your build and do a mock-up like they do on American Choppers. However, I've been acquiring pieces bit by bit so this was not an option. This is essentially a custom build and you have to be able to make the necessary adjustments as you go. This is how I did mine.
I couldn't bare the thought of taking a 2x4 to my nicely finished frame so I came up with a way to spread the frame without causing any damage at all, using a tool I already had. First I took my MacPherson Strut Spring Compressor and coated the hooks with a protective rubber coating.
I than flipped around the hooks and added 2 nuts and 2 washers in between the hooks. In affect I simply reversed the tool so that instead of compressing, it will instead spread the frame! I moved the tool up as close to the bottom bracket as allowed and alternated turning the nuts with a wrench in opposite directions, slowly spreading the frame from 4 3/4 to 6 1/2 measured at the dropouts.
After removing the tool, I added a chrome spacer, 1/2" with a 3/8 center to the axle and mounted the wheel. Just look at the belt clearance i have now!
This tool can be had at Harbor Freight Tools for about $14 or could be easily improvised with a 5/8 threaded
bolt, 2 washers, 2 nuts and a few pieces of metal for hooks. Last pic is a rough mock up of the bike now.
Next: Crimping the frame.
Paula
Member
Nice work!
lillback44
Member
Thanks Paula, my progress has stalled as my idea to crimp the frame at the upper area of the belt didn't work. The main problem is my vise is not properly mounted to anything and can't get enough leverage to make the crimp. Do you think a 1/2 ton arbor press would work?
Chris
Chris
